johny
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Posts posted by johny
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You can check the drums by just spinning the wheels when off the ground, pull the handbrake on a little and they should rub all the way round. Almost certainly there will be a high point or two as cast iron drums are notorious for going out of true over the years but has to be excessive to affect braking. Have you changed any brake system components recently?
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You really need a manual but in the meantime a well known supplier's parts webpage shows it like this with the steering wheel at the top out of the image...
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I think a Mk2 is the same isnt it?
Also have you got any experience of the pattern rings available now Pete?
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Rust! Not on my car🥶
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I take it your clutch is fully disengaging and engine tick over is as low as possible? Certainly you cant change gear like a modern and Ive practiced to get mine as smooth as possible (matching revs, not too fast, not too slow etc) with different techniques for each gear and of course up and down. My box is still pretty good and Im putting off stripping it as long as possible but in the meantime have collected several others (as I say other versions have many of the same parts). Unfortunately some of the pattern parts available these days can be unreliable but there is a couple of rebuild specialists used on here that have a good reputation...
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I have the same set up and our gearbox, as standard, does have synchro on 1st. The earlier 1600cc cars didnt and first gear is a bit noisier to engage on the move...
Unfortunately the synchro rings themselves are the same as used in the first 998cc Heralds so second and third especially suffer. This problem was reduced later with bigger rings in the last GT6/Dolomite 1850 and for this reason these gearboxes are highly sought after.
Its a complete stripdown of the gearbox to replace the rings but with a bit of mechanical knowledge can be done at home. Mine is coming up to it but has managed over 80k on the original rings although I do drive pretty sedately and keep it in 4th as much as possible. However with the torque and smooth running of the six I dont find this at all difficult☺️
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Got a magnetic one on the Vit (although you wouldnt know from looking at it) so can plonk it anywhere...
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Best time for it to go eh...
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Youre right so they should be done nice and slowly unless of course you want to test for cracking in your front vertical links😂
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8 hours ago, Wagger said:
In reply to Colin above, I meant that much clutch slipping was necessary when doing that kerb to kerg U turn. It would be easier with a lower ratio diff.
Ahhh yes its always a trade off! You have to personally weigh up how many U turns youre going to do against the many benefits of lower revs at cruising speed....
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yes the stalling was just an example.
Perhaps leverage is a better way to explain it: by changing ratio your changing the length of one side of a lever in relation to its length the other side of the pivot point. For lifting a set weight you have to apply more force the shorter the lever and, if the characteristics of the lever are kept the same, isnt it more likely to break?
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10 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Probably. A real solid molasses-like goo that blocks the free space round the pistons so that you can raise enough compression to start. I've no idea where it goes after that.
No, my stuff was supposed to be a permanent fix that set solid to give you the next size up pistons and rings without having to strip the engine. Surprisingly it didnt make the slightest difference and the engine remained knackered😌
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Im sure its the second time in my Vitesse but theres the quality of pattern parts to consider plus in that model the bushes have an especially hard life because of the combination of heavy steering and large steering wheel meaning that a lot of side force is applied...
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All that mark up and still cant keep a website going!
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My Vitesse has it on the to do list, again😂
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That does look easier to do than the older design!
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Resistance plugs seem to be ok for modern engine manufacturers who you'd think would find an alternative if there was a reduction in ignition/combustion efficiency.
Thats not to say they dont make a difference in older design engines but without some controlled testing on each model who's to say....
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well its easier to stall the engine with a 3.27 diff than a 3.89 so you need more torque to pull away. Doesnt that mean that theres more load, certainly upstream of the crownwheel, so more likely to take teeth off?
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Must have been an interesting experience😁 Makes me glad Im a boring old fart!
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yes thats it although dont know why the ad says two.... Is your roller bearing ok?
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well they all do that and eventually its an MOT fail (if noticed) but unless youre really bored I would put it on the to do list....
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Colin there is indeed a spacer. It goes on first sliding over the key, up against the bearing inner race. Then the fan goes on with the blades facing the dynamo and positively located on the key. Finally the pulley the right way round so that the nut and washer clamp the whole lot in place...
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1 hour ago, Paul Amey said:
Thanks for the information, very helpful. I looked on ebay last night and noticed that the Chinese one's I saw at £89 a few weeks ago are now priced at £229!
Have gone up but still on ebay at 109 (or best offer) delivered...
Vitesse Mk2 Inner drive shaft seals.
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
Of course the other thing is that it wouldnt be very difficult to make up gaskets and I cant see a problem with using them....