johny
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Posts posted by johny
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I would find the cause before moving the vehicle any more than absolutely necessary as theres a risk something locks up and finishes the diff off completely...
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well direct drive could imply straight through like when you have the cable connected to the gearbox. These units definitely have gears in them but they just happen to be the same size...
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With the alternator completely disconnected I dont think it would generate anything as the initial field supply from the ignition light would be missing. However to avoid any risk another way would be to remove the fan belt for a short run of the engine and see if theres any improvement...
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Dont smell of petrol though? Im wondering if Pauls right and coolant is somehow getting into the combustion chambers after stopping the engine so that on start up the plugs get wet causing poor running until they warms up and clear....
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As your video clip doesnt work what is the range of the DC fluctuations youre seeing?
Your meter certainly sounds good but its always worth checking it against another if you can borrow one.
I take it the fan belt is adjusted correctly and definitely not slipping?
If Ive got this right you think the fluctuations could be affecting the running so try unplugging the alternator and run the engine just on the battery to see if this improves things...
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does seem like a problem with 4 and 5 but the plugs look wet😳
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Weird thing is Paul says its only misfires when cold. Wonder if a bit of dampness is getting in somewhere causing electrical problems which then go when it warms up?
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To put your mind to rest Dave you could periodically have a look under the car at the joint between bell housing and gearbox casing. Perhaps try a feeler gauge in there and if the gap opens up its time to take the gearbox out....
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Take it youve been through the complete ignition system Paul? New dizzy cap would be good to try (always useful to have a spare in case you drop it) and swop round the leads (ones thatll reach) to see if the faulty cylinders change...
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Are you sure your meter is good as Im surprised you saw rapid voltage changes when running with the battery connected? The battery is like a large reservoir so its voltage can only be changed slowly. To see a higher voltage at its terminals youd have to be pushing a lot of current into it...
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worn brushes on the alternator slip rings can give fluctuations due to making partial contact and sparking. Also good to confirm readings with another meter....
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All these programmes (Wheeler dealers, Gas Monkey etc) are reality TV not documentaries and you have to take them for that. Better than nothing though....
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Physically I cant see any reason why not as they are pretty much the same engine. Believe the exhaust manifold is different as the TR comes out in two pipes and the Vitesse one but that shouldnt affect the inlet. The main problem is over carburation and presuming you can adjust the jet size they might still end up working poorly at lower revs and need some serious gas flow work on the head and exhaust...
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If I fitted OD to my car Id be very tempted to try one of those foot switches (originally headlight dip) to operated it...
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An extra Weetabix? 😂
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you know according to Rimmers theres two different belts listed for 1500 Spits depending on whether they have a viscous fan or not?
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dont think its worth it as I doubt you can get an LED to just glow to give you early warning of a problem like a incandesant bulb...
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27 minutes ago, SpitFire6 said:
Unless your LED has a parallel resistor for energising the alternator your cut in speed will be high.
yes this has been covered before somewhere and I think the conclusion was you can change all bulbs for LED except ignition warning light...
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Thats a good idea, and you can change gear with your finger in the hole in the linkage🤪
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you THINK theres nothing left to do on the car😁
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sounds like youve got a split die but the holder hasnt got the screw in it that you use to force the die open. Wouldnt be difficult to modify it but leave that for another day when theres nothing to do on the car🤗
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I think you'll having difficulty doing it with a thread file as theyre for cleaning up a damaged thread whereas you need to remove excess metal due to the bulging of the shaft end. What would be perfect is a split die and holder with screw adjuster so that you can open the die up to maximum and increase its chance of engaging correctly. Then once started you can progressively close up the die until the thread is uniform along the whole length.
To me it looks perfectly saveable but you need to file the bulge down to the same diameter as the undamaged thread - there will still be plenty of meat for the nut to torque up correctly...
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To me it sounds like the OD is engaged continually but the internal one way clutch it has that aids engine braking isnt working as it should. I hope the wiring hasnt shorted and operated the OD especially if youve then reversed the car as apparently that wouldnt be good for it☹️
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for a 5/16 UNF helicoil repair I think the drill that comes in the kit will be 8.3mm diameter so you need to measure the diameter of the stud that came out. It should be less that 8.3mm otherwise the thread that you do for the helicoil wont be perfect. The alternative is to identify the thread of the bigger stud and helicoil for that and then at least all 3 would be the same...
UNF is a fine thread and UNC course which means the thread of the latter is chunkier and better for softer metals like aluminium. Saying that sometimes the same size of UNF (and all types of thread) can come in different grades of chunkiness so the 24 means the number of threads per inch for a perfect identification.
Installing an overdrive gearbox
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Blimey calm down, theres no point scoring or put downs on this forum only occasional misunderstandings🙂