johny
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Posts posted by johny
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what did Einstein say? Something like, when youve discounted all the possible only the impossible is left! Or was that someone else🤓
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that sounds right to me. As you do up the last bit on the pressure plate bolts the diaphragm spring assembly has to push on the friction plate so you feel resistance and the fingers will start to flex...
Anyway the diff is all the focus now as weve identified 100% theres a problem with it👍 However check and double check before starting major works on it....
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If all these things check out then theres got to be a diff problem and forget the gearbox/clutch, at least for now.
Hasnt got a limited slip unit fitted in the diff has it? No noise from the it? I would expect it to sound like a bag of nails and/or go bang pretty soon!
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all will be revealed, hopefully!
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I have heard of new friction plates being put in that are slightly different from the original or put in the wrong way round so that they then stop the clutch from engaging....
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Is the prop DEFINITELY still turning with both wheel stationary? Id imagine that it spins with the wheels off the ground just by a bit of friction from crank to gearbox input shaft but because the clutch isnt engaged properly as soon as theres any load the prop will stop turning...
**** Be careful what youre doing as Im worried the clutch might grip spontaneously at anytime with the engine running and in gear with the wheels on the ground😵
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Maybe thats why the one offered to DVD was 50€...
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I was wrong this lever would need reducing in diameter before tapping and think you could only take off an inch before your fingers came up against the isolating tube corners☹️
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looking at the levers on ebay it makes a difference if its for OD or not with the former being much more difficult to shorten...
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well I think theres good and bad news then:
Your lever isnt tapered so you can just cut off a bit and re-thread the end. However the thermal/vibration barrier tube is not far below so you wont be able to shorten the lever a lot....
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They usually come as a kit with drill, tap and different length inserts. I think the drill and tap are special sizes to minimise the increase in hole size required...
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yes if the thread isnt too bad in the housing you might be lucky and get away with just a new stud. They dont have to be torqued up a lot (12 - 14 ft.lb in my manual) but if that doesnt work the hole has to be drilled and tapped to a slightly larger size. The helicoil is basically a tube thats threaded inside and out so is screwed into the new hole leaving the original internal size thread for a stud to be screwed in...
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Has the inner come out of the speedo? Try turning the gearbox end by hand while pushing on it gently to see if it'll reinsert...
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The cable isnt ended is it? Cant remember if the ends are slightly different for speedo and gearbox...
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so does the box use a 1500 single rail gear change or has it been built into an original 3 rail set up? The two types of gear levers are definitely not interchangeable...
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Right and the Vitesse one is even straighter as theres no H frame to worry about....
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I believe you are correct and fitting a GT6 lever would certainly be a lot easier than trying to reduce the diameter of his. Would a Vitesse one also be shorter?
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I take it that its a single rail gear lever ('72 Spit) so cant be changed with a GT6 item but will be easier to cut and rethread as the stem isnt tapered. The only problem might be the thermal/vibes block half way up that will limit how much can be cut off....
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Ive considered it on my Vitesse purely for the looks but worry that it might make the gear changes more difficult as they have to be done just right to be smooth and being shorter there'd probably be less control...
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7 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
You can't buy peace of mind lol
Yes you can, cost me a couple of quid for the thermal switch🤗
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As a flat battery avoidance measure I took the power supply through a thermal switch mounted on the radiator so even if the thermostat sticks on when the rad cools to 85º it cuts the power👍
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Yes my Vitesse had hot restart problems so now the fan runs on to reduce the residual heat that comes out when stopping from a high speed run. Ive watched the temperature gauge after stopping and the fan works well to control the overshoot (the coolant keeps circulating by thermal circulation) plus the flow of air stops carb heat soak...
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Its tough if your classic is needed for regular use cos we all know Murphys law says: when it doesnt matter it'll run perfectly and the reverse....
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Looks good and Im surprised the thermo capillary reaches that far! Will a fan run on after the engine stops - its quite nice but makes me nervous Im going to come back to a flat battery😳
Is it the Diff?
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
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I dont think thats particularly bad amount of play in the diff and wouldnt explain the clunk when driving. Diffs tend to whine or in the later stages sound rough but not clonk in use. I take it the sound is regularly but does its rate increase and decrease with speed? If it does perhaps you could get the back wheels securely off the ground and run it in gear to locate the source better...