johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Ive measured up one from box of bits at 15/16". Definitely 3 rail but wait for a confirmation...
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Maybe the holes for the valves are slightly larger on a repro than original because my valves had to be tapped quite firmly into place with a tube of the right diameter and wont be going anywhere. The fit is that good its why I didnt bother with a gasket either...
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Ive just replaced the valves in the original AC fuel pump from my Mk1 Vit. Not a bad job and the difference in the pump operation is night and day. I had to file away the 6 stamp marks that lock in each valve (easy as its alloy) and one then came out very easily as there was access to its reverse side. The other however is harder to get out with levering the only way to do it which of course destroys the valve and it youre not careful marks the alloy body.... It eventually shifted and theres even a paper gasket under each valve! I removed these as its overkill because the new valves tap in very snuggly and, for the same reason, I didnt make new punch marks to hold them in either.
Job done!
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Jeff, can you now still turn the fan while holding the pulley or are they solidly connected?
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my dyno fan has a slot in it to locate on the same key as the pulley. As I explained in the other thread the key was destroyed when trying to remove it so I pinned the pulley and was going to just rely on the shaft nut to clamp the fan in place. However I changed my mind when I started to think about the dynamo being accelerating with the fan free to slip under inertia and made up a little bar to sit in the pulley and fan key ways so transmitting the drive...
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If its two tanks it gets a bit more complicated! But Clives blowing method should work as long as an assistant places a hand over the second filler to seal it....
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no, overheating isnt a particular problem now but Im always open to improvements as you cant have too much cooling capacity can you (assuming the thermostat works as it should of course).
Ive thought about the water pump and have even filled the back of its casing with metal epoxy to close the the gap between it and the vanes as much as possible. However as the TR6 and 2.5PI use the same unit I assume its not a limiting factor....
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yes Ive just taken my 3 position main light switch apart because a spring has failed inside and found the contacts are pretty burnt. This damage plus the broken mechanism means Ive had to convert it into a two position switch so the contact that was used just for the instrument lights now does everything. No big loss but to prevent further damage, especially as theres now even more load on the one set of contacts, I need relays...
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yes bolts reuseable if not damaged.
What are you hoping to use the engine for? Racing, high annual mileages? If not County bearings will be fine unless you want some oneupmanship for down the pub...
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Which model of GT6 was it Nigel? The Mk1 engine seems to have a worse reputation and my car has no OD so revs are obviously higher at motorway speeds....
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yes although mine runs pretty cool now (Honda Civic rad) after my traumatic trip Im still nervous and wonder if I can squeeze a TR6 rad in there. I think the width is right but the valance might need modifying to drop it low enough...
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8 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
My first car, back in the sixties, a Herald 12/50 some of the valves where nearly oval, perhaps a slight exaggeration but only slightly.
Regards
Paul
Ah yes wear to the valves themselves is quite possible with high mileages and especially if valve clearances have been run too tight. In fact if there is VSR the risk is the valves are held open and damaged by burning which is why a compression test is recommended.
In my case the head valve seats had been reground and it going to be interesting when I get the head off one day. However now that the fuel mixture is correct plus engine temperature is much better (on the trip I mentioned it would lift the cap everytime we stopped) and I use an additive for long fast runs the clearances seem to have stabilised so I see no reason to investigate further...
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I thought VSR was heat causing the valve to 'micro weld' onto the seat everytime it closes and then pulling bits of metal off it. The lead, or substitute, acts as a lubricant between the two so stopping this process. The alternative is hardened seats that resist the microwelding far better...
Dont know what valve seat wear is - flow of gases over the surface causing erosion?
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didnt think there was much difference with the result being the valves sit further in the head and your valve clearances close up. Then in the end theres no adjustment left on the tappets😳
Course I dont know if lead or an additive in the fuel would have improved things....
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Im expecting to find quite a bit of VSR on my 2L Vit as many of the valve clearances had closed up a LOT on one of my routine checks. This was unusual and I put it down to some running problems I was having at the time: I did about 2k touring miles in Spain with the car running hot due to a poor condition radiator and weak mixture because of leaky carb spindles (not my best trip)☹️
Runs well now its all sorted although still got to check compression readings....
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yes come in 0.5, 0.75 and 1 inch thicknesses (= pretty much the change in ride height) with the last and possibly the middle one needing longer studs to still correctly clamp the spring...
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yes theyre saloon rear top corner roof cappings and I can just see them in your catalogue - not clear though, is it item 43 or 48?
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Must admit some sort of sealing as suggested might be a bit less brutal than Triumphs method...
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Just do em up as recommended works for me - but not with a 6" spanner😂
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thats right 22lb.ft or approx 10kg at 1ft or 20kg at 6" (the length of my 11mm spanner)...
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27 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
where on earth is that specifies i dont see it anywhere or i must try harder !!!
Pete
In the very useful VitesseGT6 manual from Vitesse Steves site: Tightening Torques, starting page 0.111. It calls them 'Dryseal plugs' and even the engine sump plug indicates the same value. As I say, not at all surprising when you think youve got to stop oil travelling along the thread...
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its cos its a taper thread so to seal you have to mash them together. Havent you ever found yours with a drip hanging off it?
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ok but my 11mm spanner is 150mm long and the manual says the plug wants 3kg.m to tighten so by my reckoning youve got to apply 20kg to it or find some sort of extension....
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Ive found even good condition spanners slip possibly because the square section of the plug seems to be slightly tapered as well! Ring spanners are better but my quality 12" adjustable does the job the best because its jaws are about 1/2" thick so theres good contact and of course plenty of leverage...
Fuel starvation ?
in Fuel System
Posted
yes typical of fuel restriction is misfiring as the load (and fuel consumption) of the engine goes up but then runs ok again on tickover. Alternatively something can be floating around in the tank and block the outlet so the engine cuts out which then allows the item to drop off and the engine to run ok until the next time...