johny
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Posts posted by johny
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5 hours ago, NonMember said:
Well... yes and no. It's not really any tighter than a copper washer needs, but certainly more than finger tight. They do, however, rely on both threads being in good condition and not pitted or distorted.
As a guide the manual says apply 10kg to the end of a 12" adjustable....
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The other thing is that taper threads only seal when done up pretty tight. They basically rely on the threads being mashed together which is why the square drive can easily get damaged and its essential to use a tool that positively locates and gives plenty of torque. I use a thick jaw, good quality 12" adjustable and pull it up as much as I comfortably can.
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I believe the shaft maybe case hardened ie only hardened to a depth of a few thou rather than right through so any machining might leave a soft bearing surface...
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1
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Is your unit with OD or not as the gear change mechanism is quite different between the two. The exploded diagram above is with OD and picture 1 is without...
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1 hour ago, A TR7 16V said:
The last two posts seem to suggest that increasing the pedal force by 1.44 won't be that big an issue.
In which case the next problem is to find a fork with a 5/16th thread? Lots of M8 x 1.25mm pitch.
Don't suppose anybody knows the thread on a Land Rover S2/3 handbrake link?
Graham
These are the cheapest I can find and in long or short versions. Still annoyingly expensive when compared to metric so I was tempted to drill out and tap one of those...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370861670549?hash=item5659140095:g:cskAAOSwP4lbWcN0
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Im no expert but its come up before that the 2.5 can have a 'long back' crank which means that the boss the flywheel fits to is deeper. The appropriate flywheel is thicker with a deeper recess for the boss to fit into but if a lighter 2L flywheel is used the clutch surface will end up further away from the engine backplate. Then to keep the clutch working correctly the bell housing needs to moved back the same distance...
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Ive used a 0.75 Land Rover clutch mc on my Vitesse brakes and well pleased especially with the price. The push rod thread was 5/16UNF and getting a clevis is a bit of a faff as the mc suppliers dont seem to do them! However I like being able to adjust it to take up any play. Youll lose a bit of sensitivity but I wouldnt have thought enough to affect normal clutch control...
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20 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Ah, but is it actually a "3 rail" SC box, or is it a saloon one (which also has three rails but is quite a different beast)?
Think I read earlier its a late GT6/Dolomite 1850 unit...
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sorry Ive got a bit confused with the gearbox position issue in this car. I understand its a 2.5 lump but this should be about the same length as the 2L because the block is the same and the extra capacity was achieved by a longer stroke. Then the gearbox is a 3 rail unit so this means it doesnt matter if its OD or not the gear lever position on them is the same. Now, unless some sort of spacer has been installed between engine and box, if the engine has been installed 3/4" further back then the gear lever should also be the same distance back.
An OD propshaft will have a working length 3.5" shorter than a non OD so if one has been used on your car with a non OD box it would have to be right at the end of its spline travel which isnt recommendable. With the correct 47" prop you could then work forward to get the correct location of each component...
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Well each to their own I suppose🤗
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Isnt Bastuck German though? Might be complicated in the SCC....
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All this talk of snapping lugs off, isnt there suppose to be some free play in the fixing to allow for thermal expansion of the alternator...
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I can accept that heat treatment and hardness testing is fairly complicated but size! OK dimensions can change slightly during heat treatment but its very easy to check this afterwards.
Surprised at Bastucks attitude and I wonder if they dont supply other parts stockists...
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No sorry scratch that! Theres an error in the metric figures of my manual but it looks like Triumph say even the smallest spec bush ID on the largest spec shaft journal diameter is acceptable.
Bastuck are wrong then in saying its necessary to measure the size as if they had produced a shaft within the Triumph specification, as indicated by their use of the part number TKC923, it could safely be used with any bush...
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to be honest Pete, as you well know, when building a gearbox you always have to ensure that the tolerances as indicated by Triumph are achieved. This of course involves measuring the different components and selecting the correct ones. So even if the shaft had been within the specified size range if too small a bush had been used there would still have been a risk of seizure....
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I prefer the richyrichracing.com calculator as although it supposedly uses the same data it doesnt have the error that the mintylamb site has. This is the 1st gear ratio of the Vitesse gearbox which mintylamb shows is the same for the 1600 and 2L and thats incorrect, it should be 1 : 2.65...
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Hmmm they have got a point but even so it doesnt relieve them of their obligation to ensure the item is fit for purpose. Are you supposed to hardness check the surfaces or x-ray it looking for internal cracks?
Mentioning that youre discussing this on a major Triumph car club website with many people waiting to see the outcome might help them to decide whether to give you further assistance...
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I believe all GT6, Vitesse (2L) and Dolomite 1850 gearboxes had the same ratios. The strongest of these was the single rail from the last of the 1850 but its not a direct swop for the 3 rail. The serial number stamped on the top face of the main case should confirm which unit you have...
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hmmm unfortunately doesnt look like those have any anti drain filter so definitely got to be as vertical as possible....
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Sounds like your dizzy needs a complete overhaul to be sure its working as well as possible...
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It might be best not to know😂 When you realise the tiny seal that you must have replaced using the kit is all thats between you and no brakes its rather sobering. If it fails to seal while driving all you can do, as youve found, is keep on stamping on the pedal and hope that the hydraulic pressure generated will push the seal harder against the orifice and allow the brakes to work before you hit something...
People worry about the suspension collapsing or axles breaking on our cars but perhaps the first safety upgrade should be fitting dual circuit brakes👍
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2
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They are studs that can be unscrewed from the manifold but the risk is that after all this time and heat cycling they snap off leaving you with the job of drilling out the remains....
I believe the thread is 5/16 UNF and you might be able to repair the existing stud with the correct die or if too much metal has been lost rethread it with a smaller die (M8?). I dont know why Triumph used such an unnecessarily fine thread in one of the most arduous locations!
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Its almost certainly going to be the little seal on the end of the piston that closes off the inlet from the reservoir when you start to press on the pedal. If it doesnt seat properly the fluid is pushed back into the reservoir instead of out to the brakes. It could be a damaged or poor quality seal or corrosion to the m/c sealing face and is probably repairable but would you have confidence in it....
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Is that the bolt supplied with the coupling? Should be 5/16" UNF... As Chris says it looks like another repo part that doesnt have the quality of the original or look like its designed to reduce the vibes like it either.
Sump plug leaking
in Engine
Posted
Easy, pick up 10L of water and apply the same effort to the end of the spanner, or get a torque wrench of course....