johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Chris perhaps youre thinking of the GT6 which was supplied with different ratios for overdrive and non models...
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3 hours ago, RogerH said:
China is capable of manufacturing very high quality parts for anything.
Sadly the Western suppliers ask for cheap as they think they can only sell cheap. WE are to blame not the Chinese.
If you ask for cheap and buy cheap you will only ever have cheap. Change your habits.
Its also quite possible to ask for quality, pay for quality and get cheap - trust has to be earned. Also its not just the design and manufacturing but the quality control that is needed so that duff parts dont get to the customer....
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Trouble is its so difficult to convince people the extra cost is actually getting them better quality! The Chinese will have to do what the Japanese did at the beginning: improve quality and still sell cheap. It takes years but eventually when people have accepted the high quality of a brand the manufacturer can then start to increase their prices and make a decent profit....
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Cor think I might put a 1500 in my Vitesse it sounds so good!
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cor that sensor is a bit more expensive than my ebay one!
And yes Dave connect onto the white wires but as I say you should then have an inline fuse to protect the new wiring and buzzer...
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Yes I see it looks like the 13/60 has a lower first gear than all the 1500 engined vehicles (all other forward ratios are the same) so it should be able to start off with the 3.63 diff without undue slipping of the clutch but then itll have to be revved a bit before selecting second....
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Is overdrive essential? I know its considered desireable but could a 1500 Herald pull a higher ratio diff like the Spitfire does? This would save the not inconsiderable cost of prop and gearbox and should make 1st and other gears more suitable...
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What about one of these adjustable pressure switches with a range 14.5psi to 145psi? Priced 3.79 and youd have to set it with a tyre pump before installation....
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I meant reliable in that things dont operate if you get an earth fault. A good example is the car interior light which if you have an earth fault in any of the wiring from the light itself (quite a lot of cabling) switches the light on and as its not dependant on the ignition switch can flatten your battery if it happens without you noticing....
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hey wheres the fun in not fiddling and installing 'upgrades'😍
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Youre right, best to leave the original wiring alone as much as possible. Ive just noticed that on my car the supply to the oil light doesnt come through the fuse but directly from the ignition switch (white wires) and you'd better stick to this. To do it properly you should connect to this supply but use an inline fuse before wiring to the buzzer....
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Yes the 'earth' is the return as in this case it wont be connected directly to earth (vehicle chassis) cos it would then sound continuously whereas we want it to be controlled by the pressure switch....
As an aside normally wiring goes: supply, switch, light and then earth. This is more reliable but cars because of technical/cost constraints dont always follow this design and the weakness, as in the oil light circuit, is that if the return wire is damaged and shorts to earth before the pressure switch it will give a false alarm.
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When I say ignition switch the supply to the oil pressure light is actually coming from a fuse which is supplied from the ignition switch when turned on so of course you want to use this fused supply for the buzzer not directly from the igntion switch....
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sorry not very clear, buzzer should be connected BOTH sides of warning light. This means the buzzer live wire connected anywhere between the ignition switch and the bulb and the buzzer return wire anywhere between the bulb and pressure switch. The electricity will just split and the right amount will go to both the bulb and the buzzer when the pressure switch detects low pressure and connects to earth.
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The live goes to warning light and then to the pressure switch so that when pressure drops the switch earths through the engine and current flows through the bulb. A buzzer could just be connected either side of the warning light all in the dash ie live from ignition switch to one side and back to the pressure switch wire on the other. Then on low pressure current will flow through the bulb and, in parallel, the buzzer down to earth to make the circuit....
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yes but you have to be careful the surgeon puts it in the right place...
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Beaten to it but at least we agree!
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I looked up in my free to download online workshop manual for the Vitesse which also has the single speed wipers and theres a 12v+ve supply to the green wire while the black/green wire goes off to the switch which earths when operated. Using these two connections will make the motor run and connecting the third, black wire, to -ve as well will test the wiper parking control as the motor should run on a bit after disconnecting the black/green wire. This should always be done with a correctly fused supply to avoid thermal testing....
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No the gearbox is pretty noisy if driving with the cover off but once on I dont get any rattles loud enough to hear. How about getting the car securely up on axle stands, then get it in 4th and have a listen....
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I cant see it can be done 'inside the tunnel'. The cable would have to come straight out of the side of the tunnel and under the carpet and possibly would need to be much longer than standard.....
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yeh its a difficult one, you can have years of experience and think you know it all and then break something! On the other hand after a while, hopefully, it happens less often😁
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ok then the cover will need the bolts doing up to pull it flat to the flywheel. Its always like that and has to be because otherwise there would be no clamping force on the friction plate. If your old cover isnt like that then theres something wrong with it (which may also explain the strange contact marks of the spring fingers) and Im surprised it wasnt slipping in use....
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As I said, are you sure the friction plate is in the right way round? I would double check as theres been two cases recently of this mistake so its easily done.....
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Thats it, you can have the cable made to any length and, if it'll clear the chassis rail, could to do away with the potentially troublesome angle gear. If you sell the angle gear I reckon it'll even cover the price of the new cable....
GT6 Mk2 tyres
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
I like 165 80 13 on my Vitesse as I think they look good and are bigger diameter than the 175 you mention which would help a bit to correct your speedo error. This site is very good for checking different combinations of tyres and diffs (the OD itself doesnt make any difference to speedo reading):
https://richyrichracing.com/tools/gear-ratio-speed-calculator-for-standard-triumph-drivelines/
The only downside is that this size is getting harder to find and the choice is pretty limited....