johny
-
Posts
7,022 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
38
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by johny
-
-
hmmm it all depends on whether it did this when Charlie bought the car or started to do it afterwards.....
-
out of interest did you have judder before changing the clutch?
-
yes think the tank only has to be removed if youre taking off that side quarter valance but not for the centre one....
-
As I say any air/gas gets compressed and flushed out. Sometimes in my Vitesse I have problems getting the air out of my interior heater as this is the highest point in the circuit. The solution is to operate the heater valve a few times while driving and this pushes the air through.
Once the system is full you can remove the rad cap (when cold) and even though its lower that the heater coolant doesnt come out because no air can get into the system from anywhere else (think of the full bottle turned upside down trick)👍
-
On 07/02/2020 at 22:34, clive said:
I havesaid this before. GKN make several grades of UJ, the cheapest being better (probably ) than the Britparts, the club supplied ones are the mid range and OK. The very best GKN are the genuine freelander type. But about twice the cost of the Club ones, and no grease nipples in sight.
I recently had my prop balanced after replacing the UJs with teh pukka freelander types, and when driven it had a slight vibration at motorway speeds. The nice chap at Bailey Morris seemed a bit worried when I asked him to balance it.He then looked at the UJ's, and he was delighted with what he saw. Reckons most people skimp on the UJ's which is madness. Anyway, balanced, and now smooth as silk at all speeds.
But there are UJ's as cheap as about £3 a pop up to the £30+ for the genuine freelander type. I know what I will always use...
Genuine
Next best grade
I believe Hardy Spicer are somewhere between the above 2. Avoid all others......
Theres an advert somewhere that shows the difference of the normal and HD GKN items and the main difference is down to the larger diameter arms of the u/j. Admittedly its for the bigger items used on a Discovery but presumably the same applies and this will give a larger load bearing area....
-
of course bores can go oval as well and in different places so I suppose even without much of a lip it could be worn elsewhere and the only way to really know is to take multiple measurements with a bore gauge....
-
If the bores were acceptable 28 years ago and youve only done 10k I cant see it needing a rebore. Its more likely a deglaze and/or new rings will be sufficient.
I suppose we've asked before whether its had the dastardly external oil feed modification done?
-
yes that does show pressure was lost past the rings rather than the valves but I dont think the dry reading is too bad its more that the wet reading is very high. Were the readings all pretty much the same as that is unusual with a worn engine (think 1 and 6 tend to wear fastest)? When does it smoke exactly, acceleration etc and how many miles do you think the engine has done?
-
I think you mean top end rebuild dont you? Can I ask what compression readings youve measured?
-
Ive seen the subject of clutch thrust bearings in a few threads recently and why brass was used has been asked. There must have been a good reason and I wonder if it was to facilitate it sliding along the oil seal housing tube.... Anyway as Pete says, using some sort of anti-rotation measure in varying positions should allow them to last almost indefinitely.
-
so it juddered right from when you first got the car then? We'll get all the clues in the end🙄
-
Has it done this since you bought the car or started to do it since? Out of interest what has the engine and box been removed for?
-
Is this while your using the clutch (ie pedal depressed) or does it still do it in first gear regardless?
-
Personally unless I knew it had done a very high mileage Id inspect the clutch (pressure plate fingers, friction plate thickness, thrust bearing etc) and with that plus the annual mileage I'm planning to do make a decision. Apart from the cost theres always a not inconsiderable risk when renewing something that the replacement will give problems....
-
It can be called a closed system in that theres not really any coolant loss when compared to ancient evaporative systems.
Any air pockets in the circuit are shrunk as the system heats up and pressurises and get pushed round to the top of the radiator. Then if the air bubble isnt too big its expelled to the overflow bottle along with excess coolant because the coolant on heating expands slightly and this easily induces enough pressure to lift the rad cap. When the coolant temperature increase stops (engine up to temperature) the rad cap is closed by its spring and the pressure that this maintains in the system is sufficient to stop the coolant boiling. Later, on cooling, the coolant volume decreases slightly until it produces a small vacuum and opens the inner valve in the rad cap to draw coolant back from the bottle.
In this way as long as the bottle has sufficient level the rad and overflow pipe should always be completely full of coolant👍
-
What exactly are the symptoms? Before adjusting your mixture adjustment you need to make sure everything else is correct (compression, no air leaks, valves clearances, correct plugs and gap, timing, carb balance, carb damper oil, float heights etc).
-
1
-
-
I would argue yes, with the filters that fit our cars, smaller means less filtration surface area. Maybe modern filters are small but theyve found a way to increase that area or is it that modern engines just run cleaner? Anyway less area means blocking up quicker however as classic cars normally do few miles filters are changed for time not mileage reasons so filter size doesnt matter.
-
2
-
-
Surely the wheels you bought must be the right offset or did you just buy on chance? If you bought correctly for 175/70 sure 165/80 wont give you any problems.....
-
yes think yours originally had 4.11 while now its a 3.89 and the 1500 was 3.63 (all these are UK specs)...
-
It would be boring if it was easy?
-
1
-
-
Good call and it should be easy to tell which is happening as a float chamber overflow will come out of the small hole in the front face of the carb into the air filter housing where it drains out from the bottom....
-
Hi, have you changed the fuel pump at all? An electric or replacement mechanical type have been known to produce extra pressure which can cause the needle valve to leak. Also how clean is your fuel system? There should be a gauze filter in the fuel pump that will show if much debris is coming from the fuel tank and which could then stop the needle valve closing properly. Also I believe theres been issues with certain replacement needle valves and perhaps a search on here would throw up some useful threads.
Finally leaving the car for long periods can let the float chambers dry out through evaporation which can cause the float to stick and allow an overflow although this usually occurs on the first start up....
-
Id be surprised if the 165 80s give you an arch clearance problem (assuming you have wheels with the correct offset of course) as its normally width that does that. The biggest risk on increasing diameter is contact with the bulkhead on sharp turns and even there I dont think the <10mm increase will be an issue in this case...
-
Can happen. Even I made a mistake once!
-
1
-
Mintex 1144 pads retaining hole enlargement
in Braking System
Posted
round hole for me and all good👍