johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Think metal spraying isnt easy especially on a 5/8" diameter bar. Ive seen it break away from big shafts because the process wasnt done properly. The biggest plus these days is that our gearboxes tend to do very limited mileages so even poor case hardening will last many years😊
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a 165/80 13 is 3.5% bigger the 175 and works/looks a treat on my Vitesse but unfortunately the range is now pretty limited😟
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I use Millers VSP so quite a brown colour but as long as theyre not white and melted youve not gone too weak😲😁
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Once youve got the correct response on the carb(s) you can do the fine tuning driving. I progressively weaken the mixture a quarter of a turn at a time until it starts to hesitate on a steady throttle then back it off so I know I really am getting every last inch out of my fuel. Obviously keep an eye on your spark plug colour, oh and dont go driving up any mountains!
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7 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
have a feeling many lay spindle problems stem from a life of low /no oil, at sometime in its life span, its a low splash zone so easy to starve
with over 40 years of abuse but wear and tear is an ongoing factor all the needle zones are well beyond their design life amazingly some fair well
Pete
I thought the layshaft would normally be submerged in oil as its well below the top up hole so be the last bearings to suffer when the level drops....
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yes believe it can be bored deeper into at least one end to accept a longer needle bearing which should spread the load. Also there were more thickly case hardened shafts made up as the pattern parts available now are of unknown quality....
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I know Triumph did some strange things when they made changes in design but think in this case the number of intermediate gearboxes must have been very low as Rimmers have all GT6 and 3 rail 1850s as small tip and then single rail 1850 from approx 1974 on as large.
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yes the early dolly 1850 had a 3 rail with small tip but big synch rings (I believe these match the last GT6s units) while later ones had single rail with both big tip and rings. However Ive no idea what or when changes were done to gear teeth angles. Also all these boxes had the same poor layshaft set up which, from my experience, is the weakest point☹️
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17 hours ago, Adrian Cooper said:
And when you go to put the gearbox back in, check that the pushrod for the release bearing carrier hasn't fallen inside the bellhousing. I only spotted this after I had done up all the bolts and had to take it all off again.
And, and, while you have it all apart why not check the condition of the stupid pin that acts as the hinge between the carrier arm and the bellhousing. This little blighter can fall out and stop the clutch working. That's another gearbox out job.
Adrian
I did have one years ago on a Vitesse where that stupid pivot pin had worn its way right through the carrier operating arm! It gave similar symptoms in that the slave extended, the arm moved but no clutch operation, however of course the clutch was permanently engaged rather than disengaged as in this case.....
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Aw give it a million years and new inhabitants will come along that eat plastic, are unaffected by radioactivity and breathe CO2....
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yes that price and it can still be completely knackered!
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watch out for DVLA spies.....
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Cant see that being down to over pressurisation as I think a hose, head gasket or even the rad itself would go first.....
I did see a thread on those ally rads and there was no problem with quality or installation except that the top pipe is poorly angled so makes the top hose connection difficult.
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I was getting those sort of prices for my Vitesse radiator so I fitted a new Ebay Honda Civic aluminium one at 50quid delivered. Needed some mods to fit and of course horribly not original but works a treat👍
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Did you fit this in your tail pipe? If so Im surprised it was effective cos theyre normally used on motorbike silencers where most of it is actually in the end can so the noise that is stopped from exiting directly can be absorbed in the packing....
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Aftermarket motorbike silencers are usually rivetted so can be disassembled for a repack but yours look to be welded so cant be done. Reckon you might be able to fit a slim primary silencer in the section between the chassis rails but dont know how much difference this will make.....
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its true that if the release brg carrier was stuck in the operated position you wouldnt expect any movement on the lever???
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Its looking more and more like the pedal was wedged down for a long period (not unusual as this hopefully stops the clutch from sticking on) and now not only the slave corroded in the operated position but also the thrust bearing carrier in the bell housing.....
I think youre really going to have to get the gearbox out to be sure everythings ok. This isnt as bad a job as on many cars because the box is small and pretty light (heavier with OD) and comes out through the inside of the car. The seats have to be removed and it can be done solo but better with a helper, certainly for putting it back in.
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yes you were looking at casting numbers and its a common mistake. They appear on the different large cast components of our cars but the hand stamped unique numbers found on engine, gearbox, differential etc are the ones needed to really identify exactly what youve got. However note that even then over 50+ years the internals of those components may have been fiddled with so not correspond with the original spec🤔
For example your engine should have been built orginally with a certain cylinder head which can be verified now by its casting number. However, even if the engine still has the original type head, it may have been modified by a previous owner so working out what youve got can be a bit of a minefield!
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I was right? Blimey at this rate I might end up 2nd Dan🤗
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yes you have a connection which would be perfectly ok for supplying a bulb but when the starter motor energises your looking at 100s of amps which, passing through the same connection, will produce heat and reduce the voltage on the starter motor terminals. Its the area of metal that is connected together which is important which is why bolted connections are used in the starter circuit. Can you put the jump cable clamps onto the battery leads so that they make a better connection?
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Its strange that the slave is stuck fully out, do you know if the pedal was left wedged in the operated position? It can also happen when bleeding the system or if something fails in the clutch mechanism - in either case the slave piston travels further than its normal range of movement and so enters a part of the bore that isnt normally used. This area may well have suffered some corrosion (being the lowest point its where any moisture in the oil will collect) and the piston gets stuck....
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I take it turns over by hand with a spanner on the crank bolt nice and easy without sparkplugs? As Pete says the electrical connections are very important, both earth and positive and sometimes jump leads dont make very solid connections so when theres a high current flow on starting a large volt drop is produced. Normally you see smoke or sparks at the lead clamps and the voltage reduction means the starter struggles.
If you do get good connections and it still does it you could try to borrow a starter motor from someone and try that....
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I suppose slots were used to ensure the pad braking force was transferred directly to the caliper by the pad coming up against it on one end or the other depending on the car going forwards or backwards. If you just have holes and theyre too tight on the pins the risk is that they'll be taking the load. After fitting its probably best to check the pads can smack up against the caliper in both directions....
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Possible bargain for somebody Vitesse mk2
in Engine
Posted
Unfortunately a Vit/GT6 OD box is even more difficult to source than a Spitfires....