johny
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Posts posted by johny
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according to my WSM (Vitesse/GT6 but very similar) any laygear should always fit in any gearbox with any thrusts and the play should be reduced to the correct tolerance by the mix/matching of different components. Of course thrusts are probably now pattern parts so they might not fall in the range of 0.123 - 0.125 thou for the front and 0.066 - 0.068 thou the rear. If yours are larger than this and dont fit then other than source a smaller laygear or bigger casing the only other possibility is to remove metal from the reverse of the thrusts....
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surely it can just be slipping on the cone inner clutch, the one that locks the unit so it drives directly when OD is not in use? This could be due to a worn friction surface (inner) or loss of the spring tension that holds it locked....
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I would guess either your clutch is slipping or your overdrive and of the two I think the second is more likely. You havent used any additive in the gearbox oil have you?
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32 minutes ago, Anglefire said:
I wouldn't use silicon, it will be a bitch to bleed - though you will get a solid peddle
Much better to use silicone. 😂
I dont know, it'll take ages to get it out of the tube and squeezed round the whole brake system. And then theres which colour to use....
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So you think the rockers are in the wrong position? Please let us know how it the contact pattern turns out with the shims.....
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As Scrapman said previously WSM is workshop manual which you can download free.
For the angle of the rocker look at the diagram I posted which shows the valve closed ie. the rocker's valve side at its highest position as if youre going to check the valve clearance. Does yours look at roughly the same angle?
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I think NonMember is probably right. It would be nice to have a contact band on the valve stem like Fig.3 shown but if your rockers are operating around horizontal I think thats about the best youre going to get.....
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Think it depends on the angle these rockers are operating over. If its mostly above horizontal then the instructions seem correct if theyre more like the WSM and operating mostly below horizontal the reverse will apply.
Always done adjustment cold....
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From this drawing in the WSM I think if your rocker shaft was too low the contact wipe would tend to go to the outside of the stem face while raising it with shims the rocker goes further below horizontal so should move the contact inwards. It depends on the rocker resting position being as shown....
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Atro isnt this the wear pattern you want to see? The initial contact should be in the middle of the valve stem so that the impact is spread across its full diameter then the rotating action of the rocker will mean the pad tends to wipe across the outer half of the stem....
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I recently fitted one of these on my Vitesse and Im very pleased with the quality and fixing but would recommend the convex type or possibly a rectangular shape mirror on its side to give better coverage....
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This article is quite good for explaining professional on vehicle prop balancing. I believe something similar can be done for wheels and tyres and of course should guarantee smooth running....
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I believe balancing can be done on the car (usually noted by the presence of balancing jubilee clips) and, if the shaft ran smoothly before, it makes sense to put it back exactly as it was. This is something easy to do so and if nothing has been changed on the prop why take the chance of upsetting things? However after being overhauled/rebalanced then all bets are off and its position no longer matters....
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Iain, my Vitesse lets me know when Ive gone too weak on mixture by bogging down at certain revs when driving. Its quite sensitive and once Ive identified which carb it is a quarter turn or two on the jet and I know Ive got the optimum setting....
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Its not a new engine so I would say those readings are acceptable as youre always going to get some leakage past rings and dont forget the piston is travelling a lot faster when running so the effect is less.
Why not try weakening the mixture a little on the front carb to see what it does for plug colour? What results do you get using the piston lifting pins on each carb for mixture testing?
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Hi, it is a case of just 'remove' but after having been clamped in place for years by the front crank bolt these items stick. Penetrating oil, some light tapping and levering with a fine screw driver should free it off or maybe a bit of heat if its really stuck....
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I have wondered for a while where replacement valves are coming from these days as the main manufacturers can't be interested in producing such small numbers now. Was there a name on these items?
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A lean mixture can give the symptoms you describe (well except for the fuel smell but that could be something else) and might just be the carb setting. I don't know how it's done on your type of carb but it sounds worth checking....
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It's the petrol smell that's mystifying but of course it and the poor running could be completely separate problems! That's the fun of old cars😉
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I know it can be frustrating Luke but don't be tempted to just throw money at this problem. If the bogging down and fuel smell are connected then the problem must be in the carb area when an excess of fuel occurs. As it did this with the previous pump that only leaves a float/needle valve problem. Possibly you have dirt or something in the float chamber that is intermittently stopping the valve from closing?
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I think rather than the pump not giving enough it's more likely to be that the greater pressure it generates at higher revs is overcoming the carb float valve. This is causing the mixture to go very rich so the engine bogs plus the carb overflows which then gives the strong petrol smell....
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Id be surprised if its an internal diff problem as they always have some backlash and it may well get slightly bigger over time as the gears and bearings wear a fraction but usually the diff will make a lot of noise/fail catastrophically long before backlash becomes a excessive.
It could be a u/j but you should be able to feel this before dismantling or possibly play in suspension or diff fixing points....
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Ive got a mk2 stainless system on my mk1 (I didnt like the peashooter tailpipe of the correct exhaust) but its flange is bigger and had to be modified by drilling holes to suit the manifold studs. It was pretty easy to do and seals well using the mk1 gasket.....
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no the two mainshafts are different parts so youd have to get a new 3 sync one (pt no 208142 listed at 218quid in Rimmers) and then youd be taking a risk on the spec of a repro part....
Intermittent drive reverse/first
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
The description of the OD operation in the Work Shop Manual which is free to download is pretty good. What was the answer on gearbox oil additive?