johny

Ive got 13" minilites on mine with 165/80 tyres (dont think it looks right with 14" and lower profile tyres) which helps drop the revs a little (no overdrive) but of course also makes the speedo swinging needle indicate a bit low....

looking very closely with a magnifying glass at the ring inner grooves can also give an indication of how much use it has had. This cant tell you if its no good but at least helps to put them in order of wear which can then be used to decide where to place each one in the rebuilt box - worn 1st, best 2nd, next best 3rd, worn 4th etc

I still suspect that there can be quite a variation in how far the mainshaft protrudes into the input shaft which the original design can allow. Otherwise it doesnt make sense (unless the longer bearing wasnt available in those days) that Triumph went to all the trouble of uprating this bearing only to then make it weaker than need be.....

How much of a skim will you ask for? Maybe a little extra to increase the compression ratio.....

I must admit that I have toyed with the idea of black stripes down the sides but so far have resisted.....

well old english white would have been best but Wedgie blue is nice! Ive had mine since 1987 so watch out theyre addictive😵

Congratulations, thats the best Triumph you could have bought especially if its a fixed head😍 Dont hesitate to ask on here for loads of opinions😂

modern breakers arent heat operated but use electronics to measure the current. I ask once again, how hot is the motor getting?

is the motor getting hot? Sometimes the motors have a thermal switch in the windings that trips if too hot and resets itself automatically when cooled off. It would explain why you dont get a low pressure restart even though the circuit breaker has been reset. If this is the case then theres too much load on the motor which is most likely to be a compressor problem.....

I think he was only driving on the Sandringham Estate which presumibly is private and Im not sure you have to wear seat belts then....

Theres some experts on here who Im sure will be able to tell us for sure....

Roger is the original inner spacer (0.210") standard? It doesnt look like the item shown in the manuals....

Roger, what are you going to do with the layshaft? If its in pretty good shape maybe best to reuse it as the pattern replacements dont always appear to be very good in that their surface hardening is poor so the rollers wear through it quite quickly.....

Its not so much of a weak point in your gearbox as its a vast improvement on the much smaller bearing used in my 3 rail unit. I think with yours the layshaft bearings are probably the weakest area as they are the same in both types of gearbox and certainly undersized for the 2L six.....

Thanks. Ive attached a page from the TR7 manual that shows the single rail internals (presumibly the same design as those used in other models) and as you say it looks like there is room for a longer bearing. Maybe the original idea was to ensure there was sufficient space for slight variations in the two shafts positions due to case casting differences, thermal expansion, bearing wear etc. Triumph TR7 gearbox.pdf

Hi Roger, you show the dimensions in mm but isnt it an imperial size bearing?

but thats the point because you cant guarantee more expensive means better quality - I believe theres a very limited number of companies manufacturing spares for our cars now as theres just not sufficient demand so often theres just one supplying a particular item and you can pay a lot or a little for it but in the end get the same thing!

yes Id even pay more to get better quality parts but market economics seems to dictate that its a race to the bottom cos you never know if the higher price youre paying equals a more reliable product.....

Ha, so you could replace the seals thinking it best when changing to silicone only to have the new ones fail cos theyre rubbish!

Suppose it must depend on the seal rubber type or age then as some seem to accept a change of fluid without any problems.....

Soft seals? Surely they must have started leaking then?

I agree. Its better to go by the noise made when running ideally comparing it with another car with the same engine in known good condition. How many miles is your car showing Nathan? If you are convinced that the bearings are worn you could just change them for standard size replacements possibly doing it with the engine still in place. Regrinds are usually only necessary after high milages (and one or more std bearing changes), if the std bearings arent changed in time and have failed completely, lubrication failure for whatever reason....

I find my hand occasionally slips off a small knob mid change and then the retry causes some serious crunches. Its not just the size but the surface texture as I found the original and wooden replacement a bit slippery....

no OD on mine but no need as now Ive got 6 speeds👍