johny

Ive found a large syringe with plastic pipe is best for the trunnions. You might have to free off the little balls in the grease nipples first but a syringe will pump in oil with much less hassle than a grease gun....

Cant see the springs changing much over the years as they are very lightly loaded. Anyway if they did lose tension its not acceleration mixture that would be affected (thats done by the dashpot slowing down the rate of piston rise) more the part load running mixture as Pete says. Something that I think is going to have more effect is the state of the diaphragm as these can go 'baggy' with time......

As Pete said, its strange that there seems to have been a fair amount of work to redesign, manufacture and implement the new gear change for very little gain.....

still, if standard, wont have large mainshaft tip but will be an inch longer☹️

yes, although the tip was a weak point the layshaft and its bearings (another weak area) plus the maincase roller bearings are all the same in both types of gearboxes. I believe the single rail mainshaft is longer by an inch (at least in the non OD) but dont know what benefits, if any, this offers.....

I think Rimmers and many others do the VAT thing because there are businesses (restorers and workshops) who buy parts (and consequently transportation) without it added. They do show prices with and without VAT but the postage always has to have it added on afterwards. Ebay doesnt need to do this as the vast majority of its customers are private individuals.....

Especially a free download one😍

Although it sounds like this problem is solved I can recommend the use of an ally Civic rad in a Vitesse. I just bonded the required ally angle on to the sides of a 3 row rad (cost 50quid on ebay) using epoxy metal and bolted it into place using the original fixing points - if anything I went over the top as I should have used less aluminium and of a thinner grade. I did have to use a couple of short lengths of ally tube to match up the hose connections but the result is working extremely well.

yes it mustnt be run with the trigger hitting the sensor but also the gap cant be too big as then the magnetic pulses might not be strong enough. I believe its just possible that with a certain gap the triggering might be intermittent so firing some cylinders and not others.....

You could have everything correct so I would also check the gap between the sensor and trigger in the new distributor. I assume this is adjustable and if not within specification could cause the misfiring youve described.....

If it helps Ive just used a formula Ive found on line to calculate spring rate and it seems to tie up pretty well using the figures in the table so I think the rate indicated is the number of lbs that have to be applied to the centre of the spring for a deflection of 1".....

Didnt know you could get those! Definitely let us know how it goes especially the triple strombies.....

That looks good but as Clive says the radiator cap will need to be modified somehow to have a rubber seal at the top rather than base (that one is now redundant) so that it doesnt leak under full system pressure as originally it was only designed for a slight vacuum as the system cooled. Also the cap itself is going to be exposed to more force now as its area under pressure is greater than that of the smaller hole it used to seal.......

Tells you who's overcharging doesnt it!

one of the best jobs you can do cos if done well reduces cabin temperature, fumes and noise a lot. Some people do cut a small hole in the side of the new cover with a suitable patch to allow easier topping up of gearbox oil - personally I dont have a problem doing it from underneath.....

yes it takes a bit of experimenting, both in the choke mechanism adjustment and also how much to operate it for any given temperature of the engine, but I think its worth it as I cant imagine the rattling does the bearings/crank any good! In fact Ive not thought about it before but wonder if it would be worth fitting one of those Kenlowe engine heater systems to avoid using the choke at all.....

Oil pressure does sound good Dave and goes against the idea that you have worn bearings. My pressure was lower with warning light as the revs dropped at high engine temps in traffic so I changed bearings and pump in situ (Vitesse) - not nice but doable and very successful. However probably the greatest improvement was due, when cold, to choke adjustment and use as I have it set so that I pull it out enough to start but the choke cam opens the throttle butterflies very little so preventing revs high enough to cause rattle....

I reckon the air pockets will affect changes in pressure to cause slight delays but for practically stable pressure as we generally have in our engines it will make no difference. The air compresses as the oil pressure rises and reaches a point where it just transmits that pressure onto the gauge. The same applies to the tubing which might expand slightly but also reaches a stable state.....

The advantage that I can see is that all the system is under pressure with a head tank where as an overflow bottle means on cooling everything is under a slight vacuum. I think this is better because it seems to be hard to prevent or find vacuum leaks which then allow air to get drawn in rather than coolant. Of course when this happens the system loses level and the first indication is a heater that stops working....

I use the little lifter pin on each carb to test my mixture and it seems to work quite well now Ive got the hang of it. Plugs do look a bit mismatched but Id have a look at all 6 to confirm it....

I find the oil goes in easily through the nipples with a large syringe but I do it with the weight off the wheels which maybe helps.....

More work to take out the nipple than it is to check the ball is free!

+1 for using a syringe to oil front trunnions (sometimes it helps to push in the little ball in the nipple first to ensure its not seized)....

Hi, Im not sure what work they carried out but that seems a lot of money! The idle smoothness of any engine is dependant on quite a few factors so unless you're certain other adjustments such as tappets, carb balance etc are correct the best thing would be to check those first. There can also be air leaks or wear in the carburettors themselves which will also make it very difficult to get a smooth tick over however the good news is that the adjustment itself is very easy. Our cars as standard are fitted with very simple carbs where the accelerator pedal just operates a butterfly valve in each carb to increase the amount of fuel/air mix going to the engine. The tickover setting is purely achieved by holding these butterfly valves open a little when the pedal has been released and this is done by a screw on each carb butterfly operating mechanism. They should be easy to see if you locate the accelerator cable (which must be slightly slack) and need to be undone a little and by the same amount on each carb while the engine is running and hot. If you cant maintain a stable tick over at about 900rpm then you will need to look at some of the other factors that I mentioned earlier....

That doesnt sound like the standard set up and the filter could be blocked. Dont forget that if the vent is connected to the inlet manifold any gases are sucked out of the crankcase but of course even then if the flow is too much it will affect the fue/air mixture going to the engine....