johny

If its the bottom tank away from where the bottom tube plate or drain tap is soldered on I think the risk of anything else melting is minimal and a perfect repair achievable. Either plate it, as suggested, although this can make it difficult to see if you got good adhesion or form the cracks into little troughs so that puddles of solder are formed. Dont use electrical solder....

might be worth attempting a home repair if youre on a tight budget. A lot depends on where the leak is but if you have a gas torch soldering might be possible or dont discount using epoxy metal as on a clean solid surface its good stuff....

I read this bearing change recommendation (might have been 50k for bigends) somewhere as a way to get very high miles out of a crank and it corresponds to what I found in my engine. I could have run it longer but at the risk of suffering a failure and damaging the crank.....

It does seem though Pete that the bearing shells can have quite a short life like 40k for big ends and 70k for mains. Now this is probably down to a few factors but one of them could be start up oil starvation.....

The W916 is a bit longer but the W77 has another version which is the same small size but with a 2.2bar bypass pressure for really cold oil.....

Not getting drawn into the mech/elec fan argument but think viscous has the added advantage over flexfan of driving more as its internal fluid gets hotter so its not just speed dependant.

I dont think youll need a 'special' prop for the Vitesse cos with mainshaft TKC899 3 rail box is the same length with either D or J type OD unless of course yours didnt originally have OD in which case you just need a new standard OD prop. If you do this youll have the 3 rail OD box that was used in the early Dolomite 1850 which many people like for its stronger J type but Im afraid I would also like to have the larger mainshaft tip needle bearing design which of course, as standard, is only used in single rail. Ive been looking at the possibility of a single rail into a Vitesse and apart from the bell housing mod, 1" longer length and clutch plate change I would be concerned about the gear lever position and how well the original plastic gearbox cover is going to fit. How about putting the single rail internals in the 3 rail but with TKC899HD modified mainshaft (for bigger tip bearing) and J type with thin adaptor? Then you only have to have a change of clutch plate.....

As I understand it theyre no better than any other mechanical fans in terms of air moved but as the engine revs higher the force on the blades from moving air increases and tends to flatten them out so they move less air and consume less engine power. Effectively they move more air when rotating slowly which, as in a traffic jam, is when the engine needs more cooling cos theres less cooling effect from the movement of the vehicle. However Ive never seen any test results showing the power or fuel saving......

Hi Peter, interesting modification, where did you get the aluminium spacer made? I suppose the propshaft will also have to be changed/modified to accommodate the extra gearbox length....

The idea is still alive and well and, it seems, pretty popular across the pond: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Derale-Hi-Stainless-Steel-Flex-Fan-Counterclockwise-Rotation-13-Dia-19313/392249923219?epid=187953815&hash=item5b53ead693:g:0CkAAOSw8KRcd7Du:rk:7:pf:0

As said the 'uprated' cylinders are just bigger bore Land Rover items that can be found on ebay for around a tenner. Ive got one and its been fine but obviously didnt buy from Triumph Recycler......

Hi Graham, has there been any progress to report on this gearbox swop?

Like you I might have given them the benefit of the doubt until I saw theyre out of stock of the correct ones. Neither Rimmers or Paddocks have any problem distinguishing between the two types.....

or ask Canley how long their 131008 studs for the later Spitfires are as thats almost certainly the ones theyre confusing it with. In fact Ive just seen that theyre showing as out of stock for 136818 (and even more expensive than Rimmers!) so could they be giving you the longer ones instead, surely not😲

two choices: try fitting them or ask for your money back and buy at Rimmers (theyre 2.40each and it might be worth asking them the length beforehand)

yes looks like theres only one for all models except for USA models after KF10001 when theres another part number but I dont know whats different about it. Yours isnt from the States by any chance is it?

I would say youve been sent the wrong part. Looking at Rimmers you seem to have 131008 for the later swing spring back axle or possibly what you would need if fitting a suspension lowering block between the diff and spring on your car. It might work but I suspect if youre not using said block you'll run out of thread before the nuts are fully done up so best go back to the supplier.....

No sorry miles in a modern dont count so youve had your first warning🤗

ok we'll let you stay in as long as you promise to keep it up....

Thats disgraceful! I thought you could be stripped of your membership if you do less than a 1000 miles a year😵

This might be the best mechanical fan you could fit and it looks like it should bolt straight on..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR6-Red-13-Bladecooling-Fan-With-Adapter-Hub/303073231483?hash=item469092827b:g:aZQAAOSwCiRccZHY

Excelent, they'll probably need adjusting again after a while when theyve bedded in. Lets hope these drums dont distort like the originals but definitely let us know if they do.......

Ha hes not wrong when you think about driving a car thats 50 years old with 10 times as many other road users and a spear inches from your heart for a steering column!

I like my Triumph cos its different from my modern and as long as its not too unsafe (its definitely not as safe but is within what I find acceptable) Im happy to do without power anything....

Has anyone noticed increased pedal travel after fitting a servo?