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johny

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Everything posted by johny

  1. johny
    Trouble is that symptom could be caused by the master cylinder or possibly the servo. How about clamping the calliper hoses one at a time and then both together to see how much difference you get at the pedal?
  2. johny
    If its the pads, Ive got small pin pads fitted to my earlier large pin callipers (theres far more choice of pads for Ford M16 callipers) by drilling the pad holes out a little larger. Very easy to do as the backing metal is soft and they work perfectly....
  3. johny
    Are you sure you want to change a calliper? The braking should work fine with the existing ones as I take there was no problem with them apart from the noises. How about just a clean and lube with copperslip....
  4. johny
    Yes the gear lever circlip that retains the reverse press down spring should be included in the kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-TRIUMPH-HERALD-SPITFIRE-GEARBOX-GEAR-LEVER-REMOTE-REPAIR-KIT/163058005294?hash=item25f703b52e:g:o3YAAOSwOVpXaVrA:rk:13:pf:0 Let us know how you get on as that way we all learn?
  5. johny
    you could have a look inside the box while youve got the remote off (might as well remove the whole top cover) although you will need a replacement gasket. This would really just be out of interest as theres nothing you can do other than check for wear in the operating fingers, missing teeth on the gears and maybe the amount of axial free play of the gears on the mainshaft but if the gearbox runs smooth and quiet Id leave it alone.
  6. johny
    Hi I would guess these are different problems. The reverse spring is associated with the ball assembly at the base of the lever and should be pretty easy to rectify possibly even without taking off the tunnel (it could be a broken spring or the locating circlip). Jumping out of gear is more serious as this is probably due to broken springs in the remote housing that press plungers into the operating rods to stop them moving once a gear has been selected however this means that the gearbox internals shouldnt need dismantling....
  7. johny
    Ive been quite happy with the cheapy pumps available as the bearings have never failed (and certainly never the shaft) so its always been the seals that start to leak. This is usually after leaving the engine unturned for an extended period so I suspect they stick to the impellor and then are damaged on first start up. Perhaps this is where the original bronze impellors would be better....
  8. johny
    Hi, definitely could be low oil but also could be the OD clutch itself slipping. Its hydraulically operated with its own pump (using the gearbox oil which is why no antifriction additives must be used), pressure relief valve and gauze filter producing pressure to engage the clutch. The slip could be due to worn friction surfaces, dirty filter, malfunctioning prv etc and when the load reduces it drives again. Lets hope topping up the oil does the trick as otherwise, at the very least, you'll have to remove the gearbox cover to check some of these items.
  9. johny
    I agree Clive and after taking a few gearboxes apart Im paranoid about remaining in third any longer than I have to! Luckily my engine is running so sweet (at the moment) that I can go down to 1100rpm in 4th and still pull away without pinking?
  10. johny
    Well at least we're all agreed on what Steve's Vitesse should have had from new! Be interesting to see how he gets on with the replacement diff and what serial number the old unit had.....
  11. johny
    Hi Paul, I run 165/80 13 tyres which make a surprising difference to wheel diameter and dont hit 70mph very often so my engine is doing around 3500revs which seems to suit it quite well
  12. johny
    Dont entirely agree there Nick, maybe the Mk2 Vitesse with a bit more power can pull a higher ratio but in my Mk1 I find the 3.89 pretty good. It depends on your driving style and roads I suppose but for me 60 - 70mph is enough and its not mechanical but wind noise (plus handling) that limits me more and thats in a fixed head! True first gear could be taller but I love the acceleration in the other gears and then using 4th for everything else.....
  13. johny
    I dont know where youre getting your info from Steve but it was definitely: Mk 1 and 2 Vitesse 2000 (both with or without OD) = 3.89:1 As you say theres often many different opinions so trying stuff out is the only way to know and yes is all part of the fun! Dont worry though if you dont like the 3.27 unit it'll be easy enough to sell.....
  14. johny
    Hi Darren, it means what Paul put here although to be entirely correct Spitfires, logically, also used the 150328 in their 3 rail 4 synchro boxes at around the same time as the GT6 III and Dolly 1850 before all models went over to single rails....
  15. johny
    even more interesting as the 3.27 ratio was never used in the Vitesse which had a standard of 3.89. Your ratio was only used in the lighter GT6 and then only if it didnt have overdrive so its the rarest of the ratios. Is your engine standard? I still have the original diff in my non overdrive Vitesse which I like but would consider going to a 3.63 only if I can go up the steepest main roads without having to drop a gear (I think doing this too often would rapidly finish off my gearbox!)
  16. johny
    Did you have new valves installed? I come from a heavy engineering background and one thing we always consider when planning to overhaul machinery is the risk of actually making things worse! Any new component used can be faulty and, in this case, the valve could have had a manufacturing defect that caused it to fail. Another possibility is that an error is made in the installation work such as leaving too tight a tolerance between valve and guide so that in operation it seizes however here I wouldnt have expected the valve to break.....
  17. johny
    Hi Steve, looks like you might have put a 3.63 diff in your Vitesse. If so how is it compared with the original in particular whats the pull away like in first gear and can you maintain fourth on the steepest of inclines?
  18. johny
    Correct Paul, that seems to be the current understanding?
  19. johny
    Thanks Paul. Yes the later type obviously have more surface area for gripping and synchronising plus theres no way theyre interchangeable!
  20. johny
    It is a bit confusing but I believe the earlier 148409 was used in both 3 and 4 sync 3 rail boxes (for example GT6 1 & 2 and Vit 1 & 2). Then the 3 rail box was modified in various ways (presumably all mods at the same time?) and 150328 ring (150326 is a digit out Pete) was used from then on including the single rail units. I think all use just one type of ring or the other and theyre shouldnt be interchangeable although sometimes they do turn up in the wrong places and it would be interesting to know how well those boxes functioned......
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