johny

Ive got an Exide EA755 in my standard Vitesse so 75ah and 630A which has been and is brilliant. Its not that it needs that cranking power but more that I can leave it for ages (no power supply for a trickle charger) and its still got enough to spin and push a bit of oil around the engine before firing.

I avoid Halfords because of their prices as it annoys me that you have to wait for a sale or have a trade card to get a good deal. How much of a mark up are they normally making when theres still profit in the lower prices????

yes you must be able to move the bolt along its length not just rotate it to prove that its not rusted into the trunnion sleeve (I believe they now come in SS to prevent this). I dont think I would take the bolt out completely as it'll be hassle to reassemble so instead just tap it through a bit and try to get some lube in. While your there, if not done recently, you could grease the wheel bearings but best done with the drums off to check that excess grease isnt making its way into the brakes....

I think the manufacturer/quality is always important and even more so for classic cars that dont get used frequently. Obviously Bosch, Varta, Yuasa etc are good but also pricey so I prefer Exide (and other makes like Hankook who sell them under their name) for a great price/qualtiy balance....

Out of interest, where do we think diff whines come from: the bearings, the gears or both? With the propshaft now that weve established its a posh 'frictionless' jobbie Im even more doubtful that its the source of the loud knock.....

youre right and I didnt know but it appears that a 'frictionless' prop was fitted for a while before they went to the simpler type. Also if it is worn theres nothing that can be done other than replacement probably using the later more common design. With the diff I think Pete is warning that its quite a complicated item that can be difficult to overhaul successfully and I agree....

eh! loose rollers - are we talking about the sliding joint here? As far as I know theyre all the same (with the exception of the earliest types) having a splined bar on the propshaft end onto which the coupling with its u/j slides. The there's a threaded cap that you do up onto the end of the coupling part to retain it. Theres no rollers and shouldnt be any loose parts unless some of the splines have broken off.......

When I took my prop in for a balance they found it bent! Dont know how that had happened but it needed heat on it to be straightened after which it was successfully balanced....

Pete, do you reckon it could be put back together 180º out and affect the balance? What were the symptoms of the wear in your case and do you think theres any chance with thin strips of shim to pack out the splines?

well Ive had mine apart before and cant see any problem except that perhaps the shaft was balanced assembled so that if the splined shaft is put back differently the balance will be out.....

wow well if its definitely not u/js or the backlash clonk coming from the diff or gearbox gears as you rotate the prop back and forth then its got to be the splines and replacement is the only option. Saying that mine has some play in it (but doesnt give a clonk) and Ive been toying with the idea of making thin strips of steel shim to insert in the splines! Probably wont work or they wont last very long but I do love a good fiddle - as long as its cheap of course......

when you say play do you mean radial or rotational? There will always be some play especially radially and I think it would have to be huge to make a knock so its much more likely to be something else such as a bush/mounting on: suspension, tie arms, leaf spring, differential, gearbox, exhaust etc

I prefer the cheapest 95 and then adding an octane/lead substitute as I havent got the harder valve seats. I use Millers VSP and price wise it works out about the same as the higher octane fuels....

well on a long run cruising around 60mph Ive had 34mpg (or maybe even a bit more due to the bigger tyres) but Ive taken a lot of care setting mine up. If you have OD not sure what difference it will make as it does drop the engine revs but also absorbs quite a lot of drive power. Fuel tank takes 40L but the gauge can be unreliable so yes a fuel can isnt a bad idea....

Ive got 13" minilites on mine with 165/80 tyres (dont think it looks right with 14" and lower profile tyres) which helps drop the revs a little (no overdrive) but of course also makes the speedo swinging needle indicate a bit low....

looking very closely with a magnifying glass at the ring inner grooves can also give an indication of how much use it has had. This cant tell you if its no good but at least helps to put them in order of wear which can then be used to decide where to place each one in the rebuilt box - worn 1st, best 2nd, next best 3rd, worn 4th etc

I still suspect that there can be quite a variation in how far the mainshaft protrudes into the input shaft which the original design can allow. Otherwise it doesnt make sense (unless the longer bearing wasnt available in those days) that Triumph went to all the trouble of uprating this bearing only to then make it weaker than need be.....

How much of a skim will you ask for? Maybe a little extra to increase the compression ratio.....

I must admit that I have toyed with the idea of black stripes down the sides but so far have resisted.....

well old english white would have been best but Wedgie blue is nice! Ive had mine since 1987 so watch out theyre addictive😵

Congratulations, thats the best Triumph you could have bought especially if its a fixed head😍 Dont hesitate to ask on here for loads of opinions😂

modern breakers arent heat operated but use electronics to measure the current. I ask once again, how hot is the motor getting?

is the motor getting hot? Sometimes the motors have a thermal switch in the windings that trips if too hot and resets itself automatically when cooled off. It would explain why you dont get a low pressure restart even though the circuit breaker has been reset. If this is the case then theres too much load on the motor which is most likely to be a compressor problem.....

I think he was only driving on the Sandringham Estate which presumibly is private and Im not sure you have to wear seat belts then....