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johny

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Everything posted by johny

  1. johny
    No Iain its not width theyre talking about but overall tyre diameter. If you held your drive shaft in your hands and tried to stop it rotating while someone else turned the wheel (obviously with it free) you would find it harder the bigger the overall tyre diameter even though your assistant applies the same force in each case because they will have more leverage. Its the same for your brakes as the pads will have to clamp harder for a given rate of deceleration the bigger the overall tyre diameter. However the most sensible thing is to stick as close as possible to the original overall diameter so you can avoid this and other possible issues....
  2. johny
    looking on the tyre comparison sites you could get 175 60 15 of which theres quite a range and they would be almost exactly the same size as my 165 80 13 (slightly bigger diameter than original) so as long as the wheel offset is the same there should be no clearance problem....
  3. johny
    had a Honda Civic ally jobbie in my Vitesse for a couple of years now no problems and at 50 quid delivered it was a lot cheaper than anything else I could find
  4. johny
    If you search a bit I've seen the same item at 90 delivered.....
  5. johny
    Theyd have to be very good for that price (I take it thats not fitted) and I personally would want to pay around 30 pounds each as I think top end tyres are wasted on my Vitesse taking into account how I drive, the milage I do, the conditions I drive in (dry n quiet) and the 50 year old design of my suspension....
  6. johny
    really recommend the 165/80 size as for me they give a great balance of steering weight, noise and footprint. Also drop the revs by a useful amount (I dont have overdrive) but these days theres limited choice as the main users used to be vans and caravans but things have moved on.....
  7. johny

    Kangaroo Juice.

    johny replied to Paul H's topic in Fuel System

    With the title on this thread its going to be a long painful search to find in the future.....
  8. johny
    Ive got minilites of the same size on my Vitesse and the studs which I believe are the same as yours have been fine with no modification. Of course I have used the correct wheel nuts for the wheels and these protrude well into the holes so that theres plenty of thread to screw onto the original studs.....
  9. johny

    Horn

    johny replied to dougbgt6's topic in Electrical System

    might I suggest a smear of electrical contact grease on the copper disc. Bit difficult to source such a small quantity (might try an electrical repair shop) but will help maintain a good connection and stop squeak
  10. johny
    Dan it sounds like youre really going to have to clamp the hoses to narrow down the cause of the problem. You dont have to have hose clamps as Im sure mole grips or g clamps could be used with some round steel bar to do the job without damaging the hoses (assuming of course that their not the steel braided type)...
  11. johny
    yes I read that but I doubt youve got repro callipers and it could be expensive to change them and find no improvement. At least not having a servo reduces the possibilities but on balance I would think the MC is more likely to be the cause and its a certainly cheaper to change. I paid about 12pounds incl delivery for a Land Rover 3/4" (slight increase in bore diameter but with a smaller reservoir than the original) unit and am very pleased with the result.
  12. johny
    Trouble is that symptom could be caused by the master cylinder or possibly the servo. How about clamping the calliper hoses one at a time and then both together to see how much difference you get at the pedal?
  13. johny
    If its the pads, Ive got small pin pads fitted to my earlier large pin callipers (theres far more choice of pads for Ford M16 callipers) by drilling the pad holes out a little larger. Very easy to do as the backing metal is soft and they work perfectly....
  14. johny
    Are you sure you want to change a calliper? The braking should work fine with the existing ones as I take there was no problem with them apart from the noises. How about just a clean and lube with copperslip....
  15. johny
    Yes the gear lever circlip that retains the reverse press down spring should be included in the kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-TRIUMPH-HERALD-SPITFIRE-GEARBOX-GEAR-LEVER-REMOTE-REPAIR-KIT/163058005294?hash=item25f703b52e:g:o3YAAOSwOVpXaVrA:rk:13:pf:0 Let us know how you get on as that way we all learn?
  16. johny
    you could have a look inside the box while youve got the remote off (might as well remove the whole top cover) although you will need a replacement gasket. This would really just be out of interest as theres nothing you can do other than check for wear in the operating fingers, missing teeth on the gears and maybe the amount of axial free play of the gears on the mainshaft but if the gearbox runs smooth and quiet Id leave it alone.
  17. johny
    Hi I would guess these are different problems. The reverse spring is associated with the ball assembly at the base of the lever and should be pretty easy to rectify possibly even without taking off the tunnel (it could be a broken spring or the locating circlip). Jumping out of gear is more serious as this is probably due to broken springs in the remote housing that press plungers into the operating rods to stop them moving once a gear has been selected however this means that the gearbox internals shouldnt need dismantling....
  18. johny
    Ive been quite happy with the cheapy pumps available as the bearings have never failed (and certainly never the shaft) so its always been the seals that start to leak. This is usually after leaving the engine unturned for an extended period so I suspect they stick to the impellor and then are damaged on first start up. Perhaps this is where the original bronze impellors would be better....
  19. johny
    Hi, definitely could be low oil but also could be the OD clutch itself slipping. Its hydraulically operated with its own pump (using the gearbox oil which is why no antifriction additives must be used), pressure relief valve and gauze filter producing pressure to engage the clutch. The slip could be due to worn friction surfaces, dirty filter, malfunctioning prv etc and when the load reduces it drives again. Lets hope topping up the oil does the trick as otherwise, at the very least, you'll have to remove the gearbox cover to check some of these items.
  20. johny
    I agree Clive and after taking a few gearboxes apart Im paranoid about remaining in third any longer than I have to! Luckily my engine is running so sweet (at the moment) that I can go down to 1100rpm in 4th and still pull away without pinking?
  21. johny
    Well at least we're all agreed on what Steve's Vitesse should have had from new! Be interesting to see how he gets on with the replacement diff and what serial number the old unit had.....
  22. johny
    Hi Paul, I run 165/80 13 tyres which make a surprising difference to wheel diameter and dont hit 70mph very often so my engine is doing around 3500revs which seems to suit it quite well
  23. johny
    Dont entirely agree there Nick, maybe the Mk2 Vitesse with a bit more power can pull a higher ratio but in my Mk1 I find the 3.89 pretty good. It depends on your driving style and roads I suppose but for me 60 - 70mph is enough and its not mechanical but wind noise (plus handling) that limits me more and thats in a fixed head! True first gear could be taller but I love the acceleration in the other gears and then using 4th for everything else.....
  24. johny
    I dont know where youre getting your info from Steve but it was definitely: Mk 1 and 2 Vitesse 2000 (both with or without OD) = 3.89:1 As you say theres often many different opinions so trying stuff out is the only way to know and yes is all part of the fun! Dont worry though if you dont like the 3.27 unit it'll be easy enough to sell.....
  25. johny
    Hi Darren, it means what Paul put here although to be entirely correct Spitfires, logically, also used the 150328 in their 3 rail 4 synchro boxes at around the same time as the GT6 III and Dolly 1850 before all models went over to single rails....
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