johny

yes the oil pump can turn both ways but obviously can only pump oil around the engine when turning the correct way.

I know what you mean and I suppose its possible although it would be bloomin unlucky plus I reckon any workshop is going to want to hear the noise anyway......

especially as the car was driven 10 miles like this☹️

Hopefully all will soon be revealed.....

If there's oil pressure I would still check for air pressure from each spark plug hole. After all knowledge is power and then with the garage get them to go in steps so costs are kept under control. You can always let us know their findings for a second opinion😮

yes you can run a while without the cover although after a while oil might start collecting in the area. You need a compression tester, a pressure gauge that screws into the spark plug hole although with just a finger over the holes youll get an idea if theyre all the same....

not necessarily Steve as the pistons are still going up and down

yes youre probably right but it could be a dropped valve or broken piston so it would be nice to know if theres oil pressure and then do a compression check to get a better idea. Also in the recording I heard one slight mis knock which could have been down to sound quality or something that doesnt fit in with big end failure....

Hi Steve, it doesnt really matter how the oil pressure switch is wired up, if its light comes on when the wire is earthed there is a problem with the switch and it must be changed. Once you do this and the light comes on with the ignition you have two possible next steps: investigate whether the oil pump is being driven or just start the engine and see if the oil light goes out. As youve already driven the car like this I think the second option is probably ok for a short while and, as Pete says, if you can do it with a pressure gauge even better. From there we'll have a think about where to go next....

brake light? Turn the ignition on, disconnect the wire to the oil pressure switch and touch it down to a clean area of the engine block and check the oil pressure light comes on...

well most likely its the bulb which is obviously in the back of the speedo so a bit of manual dexterity is needed to access it. Otherwise the switch is a cylindrical item mounted on the LH side of the engine block with a wire going to it which if disconnected and put to earth should light up the oil light when the ignition is on. I forgot to ask if you have an oil pressure gauge fitted?

uuufff the oil light should come on with the ignition is turned on to prove the bulb and circuit. The pressure switch could be stuck open or the wiring faulty but either way this needs fixing first and to be honest you shouldnt have driven it without it working correctly.....

Whats the history of this, did it suddenly start doing it while driving or just on start up and did it get louder and louder? Have you done any jobs in the engine area recently, how many miles do you think its done and I take it the oil pressure warning light works but stays off when running?

Theres been a few complaints recently of replacement pumps giving too much pressure so overcoming the needle valve and flooding the float chamber. If the pump manufacturer has used a spring thats too powerful it will give a higher pressure and I believe the original Triumph spec was pretty low. Of course, as Pete says, it could be that the needle valve is past its best and I think thats the first port of call unless youve got a way to check the pump output pressure.....

Are we mixing up master and slave bores? Looks like former is 5/8 and later 7/8....

Course there's nothing to say couldnt be more than one reason.....

I always thought that as its more difficult to suck in air through a hole than blow it out the latter can be smaller and still be sufficient....

Great so the final test is with somebody following your car get the engine hot and see if it puffs smoke when coming back on the throttle after letting it trail. If it does then this time maybe youll need to replace guides and valves (how many miles has it done since the last overhaul?)

wonder if they marked the piston front so that if they were ever taken out later for new rings and/or bore deglazing its easy to know which way to put them back in. I think once a piston has worn to a position its important it returns there.....

yes the flywheel bolts look to close into the centre to catch the springs so I think a spring broke free (motive unknown but could just be metal fatigue as the design at that point doesnt look very good) and was trapped between the flywheel and friction plate where it caused the damage shown. Now I think with the new clutch you have a different problem which seems to be related to the operating mechanism....

Perfectly understandable after all the effort.....

As I understand it to fit bushes to the older carbs on Vitesses they have to be reamed right through both at the same time once theyre installed to get the correct alignment for the spindle. This would be the same for carbs that have been previously modified to accept bushes.....

I think up and down play in the trunnions isnt so worrying as they are always under load (well unless the car is off the ground😲) and I test the ball joints similarly - pull top of wheel for upper wish bone and back/front for track rods....

I always think side to side movement in the trunnions is the most important rather than up and down so get the wheel off the ground and pull it in and out at the bottom....

Yes does sound like leaking guides is now the only explanation left. I dont know about using seals though as this would be non standard and of course some lubrication is still necessary so why not go for replacement guides (and valves if required) and also hardened seats at the same time?