johny

I like Gullys suggestion of a brake tester as I think it's far more likely the problem is with a front brake....

A cheaper and easier alternative is to change your diff ratio to drop cruising revs but at the cost, of course, of a bit of acceleration....

Im afraid these have become very sought after so do come up on ebay but at a price of up to 700 pounds for a 'kit'. This will be a gearbox that hasn't been refurbished but should work plus shorter propshaft, speedo gear drive, mounting bracket and OD wiring....

mines a mk 1 but reckon itll be the same where it comes through floor and crosses to outrigger. Then carries on all the way along the side of outrigger and chassis rail - sorry no photo but its pretty straight forward.....

Yes as NM says no problem but if you could free off that bolt before it becomes well an truly stuck in place you'd be saving yourself a real #@%*!

Yes that sounds like the bolt is seizing in the trunnion steel sleeve and if really stuck can only be dismantled by hacksawing the bolt either side of the trunnion....

I think its asking a lot of the little fuel pump valves to seal perfectly especially when there's no pressure in the system so there will always be some run back. I fitted a new pump rather than overhaul the original and it works fine but I don't know how well the valves seal as I haven't got an extra filter installed...

I've had this effect not on my car but a motorbike and it was due to a disc brake piston(s) sticking. When this happens the pad is kept much closer to the disc causing it to rub (you might find it getting hot) and consequently there's less pedal travel....

Certainly looks like the halfshaft is running quite close to the chassis rail Bob (or is that an optical illusion) although I know once the driver's in it the car will settle some. Mines done 80k easy miles now on the original spring and the wheels sit pretty much vertical with nobody in it....

How many miles has your car done Bob? Im surprised your spring is still like this as by now an original should have flattened out to give at least vertical wheels. Maybe its not an original or, if it is, never carried more than just the driver but either way I agree a block will sort it out.

It does run the risk of unnecessarily straining the overdrive unit as its really designed as a means of dropping the revs when cruising and not for the load of hard acceleration which is why it not used on lower gears. If you see the epicyclic gears inside you can appreciate this.....

I've seen one or two diffs with lumps pulled off them and that's not something you repair very easily!

The trouble is the list of items to carry in our limited boots starts expanding: jack, board, axle stand. All for something that these days, taking how many miles the average Triumph does, is a very rare occurrence.....

yes I suppose its possible not enough lube is getting to the friction surface so it could stick...

surely you must have carried some blocks with you to get the jack to the right height?

I think some moderns still come with jacks and for those that dont its more because they dont have a spare wheel in an effort to save weight, costs and fuel. However its true these jacks are not the safest of tools and great care is needed using them to change a wheel especially as its usually done under awkward circumstances (by the roadside, in the dark, on uneven surfaces?). I always keep the spare wheel under the car while jacking so if the worst happens theres something to stop it crashing onto the ground.....

Ive always found bottle jacks to have a very limited travel so for our cars with the swing axles there can be a problem getting the rear wheels off the ground.....

Certainly dont think an oil change would be a bad idea.....

Doesnt the OD get held in by hydraulic pressure that is directed to its operating mechanism by the solenoid valve? The required oil pressure is only produced when the car is driving along so if its engaged with the car stationary I would have thought theres a major problem with the OD internals.....

Maybe the tickover has been set too low and then when the engine gets hotter it drops further, as it normally does. to a point where it stalls. Once the engine is up to temperature the tickover should be between 800 - 900rpm. Is it worth returning to the professional with the problem?

Hi, you need to tell us a bit more about the model of GT6, year and carbs fitted. A photo of the engine and its carbs might also be useful....

I can confirm that the SX1000 was labelled Inductive Discharge and the SX2000 Reactive Discharge but the SX4000 is just a common or garden electronic points system and hence its cheapness. I think I fancy the SX5000 with built in adjustable rev limiter....

I think the idea with these systems, inductive and capacitive, was that power was stored up in the bit of kit (SX1000 or 2000) to be discharged through the coil when triggered by the points so giving a better spark. They actually changed the way the coil was being used from inducting the spark due to collapsing its magnetic field by cutting the current flow through the points to inducting it by a rapid discharge of current through it. Anyway the idea seemed to fall out of favour (not sure if Pertonix still use it though) and we went back to the original simpler/cheaper arrangement but with electronics used to cut the flow of current rather than points (SX4000, Lumenition and Accuspark etc).

Ive heard it called knocking, pinging and pinking (think the last one is just a derivation of the previous) and theyre just names that try to describe the noise it produces. Our engines will always do it at some point and its perfectly acceptable as long as its not excessive. The criteria I use is that in 4th gear on the flat if I floor the accelerator the engine will pink (rattling/tinkling that sounds quite mechanical) until I reach 2000rpm when it should stop. If its produced at any other time somethings wrong and you risk damaging the engine so, as I say, if everthing else is correct with the engine the two options are to increase fuel octane or reduce timing advance.

The great thing on here is that you usually get loads of answers and if they all agree you can be 99.999999% sure its right😂