johny

I cant see the point of having more than one but as the pump itself has a filter (gauze screen) there is an argument for putting it down stream of this so the bigger debris is stopped beforehand. However in many cases theres a section of hose prior to the pump where its very easy to install the additional filter and, in my book, easy is always good👍

Agreed and it'd be good to know roughly where the problem lies before going to the repair shop so that Ros can tell if theyre telling her nonsense..... Pity Ben hasnt come back!

Ben do you think turning the crank using the front pulley would have shown up that failure?

EX means exhaust valve. You can turn the crank with a spanner on the front pulley bolt (easiest with sparkplugs out) or possibly even using the fan belt but be careful not to trap fingers if doing it like that....

yes theres a few on ebay now putting the decimal point in the wrong place....

wow, we've seen this engines pushrods and valve gear operating so the cam chain is transmitting drive but I suppose anythings possible.....

does sound similar but surely you wouldnt get compression on all cylinders?

well you could check the valve clearances when the engines cold. Its not likely to be the problem but might show up a problem and is another great learning opportunity especially as its a routine job that needs doing from time to time....

ok so did it seem to get louder when you ran the engine with the rocker cover off?

Probably should have asked this earlier but as you originally discounted the alternator as the problem can we assume the noise comes from the front of the engine?

Not stupid at all as has come up on here before and so could be found with a search. First is single rail and second 3 rail, both with OD but the gear change part is similar on non OD units as well. Single has reverse selected by pushing lever to RH side and 3 rail to the LH side......

Yes the problem of the wires will be the same whatever gear knob you use with a solid stick. I suppose if you get a tall enough gaiter like this they can be largely hidden inside it.....

where do the wires go though?

orrrr what about having an easier to find non OD gear lever and using a floor mounted headlight dip switch like this to operate the OD? Then you havent even got to move your hands of the steering wheel to overtake......

And above all, let us know what you find so we all learn🤗

Berty I would save your money for the other bits you might need because as long as the relief valve isnt damaged and closes fully it wont be the cause of the low pressure. A stronger spring just increases the max pressure reached ie at high revs and not the idle pressure which is your problem. Its almost certainly down to worn bearings and pump (dont think youve said how many miles your engine has done) however a high running temperature especially in traffic will exacerbate the problem as the oil thins even more. If this is the case be careful to minimise driving it under those conditions as you run the risk of a bearing failing (they can deteriorate quite quickly) and damaging the crank which will then require a regrind as well as new bearings. My Vitesse had just the same symptoms after about 70k miles from new but I caught it in time and only had to replace the bearings and pump (only!) to restore great oil pressure.

I take it the internal drive in the gearbox has been confirmed as driving ok? Unlikely to fail but I suppose its possible so can it be proved by putting something suitable in the gearbox drive end to check it rotates when the back wheels turn?

This may not seem like the best way but I bet youre learning loads and its far better than books or someone just telling you👍

Id still like to know if theres a puff of air from each sparkplug hole when the engine is turned either by hand (although did you say this wasnt possible?) or starter...

yes oil is pumped up to that area to lubricate the rockers, cam followers and valves. With the cover on it just runs back down into the sump

Pity as Im afraid we havent advanced very much and I havent got any idea, even roughly, of what the problem is....

hmmm if the rods go up and down then the cam followers must almost certainly move as well to transmit the motion😮

so the front five pushrods are not moving and the rockers dont rock? The silver round looking things are down inside the holes where the pushrods go arent they? These sound like the cam followers which are in contact with the cam and convert the rotation of the cam into the up and down movement of the pushrods. Can we not see these other rods in another vid?

certainly all the pushrods and tappets should be operating the same. I believe the screw, if thats it in the vid, just locates the bar the rockers rock on in the correct position.

Thats looking good! So probably the pressure switch wasnt working but oil was actually getting round the engine (as long as there was sufficient level of course)....