johny

Yes are you sure Colin? Heres a photo of an angle drive and it looks like both gears are installed from the back and then capped over. They were never intended to come apart... Then some similar Smiths units for motorcycles have grease nipples in the same place as the screw on ours so it seems logical that its for lubrication.

Would you have to tell them about the fuel tank change? Here they can use modifications as an excuse to get out of a claim even if its not related to the actual accident - could be something like a number painted on racing car style and they say you werent paying the right premium because your risk had gone up so not covered😭

Do you have to have insurance there because I wonder if they are just as relaxed?

To answer your question I think the two halves of the tank are joined by roller welding. This is where the seam is clamped between two rollers and a current passed between them while the tank is moved around - spot welding on the move if you like... Fitting a Spitfire tank sounds to me like it might be a 'major modification' under the DVLA classic car rules. I would remove the fuel level sender and have a look inside to see the condition. Its most likely to have plenty of crud (probably the cause of the blockage) but should still be perfectly serviceable. Mine was pretty rusty and I considered coating it with an epoxy sealant but in the end put it back in the car with a paper filter installed before the fuel pump which has been fine...

Yes to fix GT6J's sports box I think I would use a strip of 25mm x 3mm steel to make a bracket attached to the inlet pipe with a U clamp and running towards the rear of the car. Then hang it with a rubber strap from that standard inboard mounting point....

I believe some people recommend sealant on the gasket around the oil transfer port - sure there posts on here discussing the subject...

Great, now youve got to decide where to source the gasket and its installation method😶

Possibly but it looks like there are different vertical links and steering arms for front disc and drum versions of the Herald...

I got pattern rear overriders quite a few years ago (when they were a lot cheaper) and theyre ok but not a patch on the chrome of my original fronts. Obviously theres different standards of chroming so I dont know how they will stand up even if you get them done yourself...

Yes as Pete says start with the simple things but if the tightness is right at the end of travel it could be the trunnions have been wound on too far and are coming to the end of their thread before reaching full lock. Difficult to ascertain this and a bit of pain to correct if it is the case. If you cant find any other explanation I think I would mark up the track rod end positions and undo both. Then of course the rack should be perfectly easy to run from one end to the other and you can also check for full range of movement of each wheel...

Didnt the 948 come with front drum brakes so the suspension might have been different and use a rack to match?

Ah cant see how the indicator problem can be related to stiff steering...

Its like this even with the front wheels off the ground? It could be a few things but one possibility is a worn steering rack that has been compensated for in the middle (most worn bit) which then makes it tight at the non worn outer ends. Its easy to check as you repeat the test but with the rack centre tensioning nut undone a few turns to release the pressure and then see if steering is easier. If not the problem is elsewhere...

I thought the AA mans strap repair looked good enough🤠

Thing is I think JohnO meant hes found different figures for GT6 engine dimensions being quoted by various sources😁

If it is a valve it'll be temperature related so need to whip the cover off as soon as it does it to then run and inspect...

You know theres a search function on here? There also things called search engines to look for internet stuff... Anyway once again the manuals are at vitessesteve.co.uk

Best to use the free to download workshop manual👍

One on ebay, says complete and includes delivery...

and early Lotus👍

Think its much easier to machine right through than a dead end...

We had this discussion a while back Doug and I checked my originals as I thought they were solid but no theres an insert...

ok, do you know what the problems are with these unbranded ones?

I dont think Ive ever seen one without STANPART on them! Seems probable the after market people just used an original to make the mould so they all automatically came with the name. Anyway its not the casting so much as the thread machining and sealing of the bottom that are the important bits...

Unfortunately you really need a cup round the protuding stud to hold penetrating oil so that it can really soak down over time. Plasticine or something...