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Colin

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by Colin

  1. Speedo out - Bingo! Thanks. Err . . . how do I deal with the choke cable?? C.
  2. Hi Colin. Thanks. Just going in again! Rubber seal has come away OK and I know the backing plate is loose having decided to withdraw into thecabin (before I had my sensible thought!) Pic shows the limited space I'm cramming myself in through & up!! Best, C.
  3. Hi Colin. Thanks. Just going in again! Rubber seal has come away OK and I know the backing plate is loose having decided to withdraw into thecabin (before I had my sensible thought!) Pic shows the limited space I'm cramming myself in through & up!! Best, C.
  4. Thanks Colin; (Again 'notification on' not alerting me to your reply - soz) Just thinking overnight . . . I guess the other way, is, having marked up all the cabling on the back of the speedo and with every other dash element dismantled, remove all cabling connections and lamps from the speedo and take the dash off with speedo still fixed in? Then take off on bench . . . Not that I have done it this way so far . . . !! Thanks for the advice - I'm at the stage where it is looking as if it'll move forward into the cabin at its top but still reluctant at the bottom. However, I still have the top (voltage stabiliser?) wiring unit cabling to mark up and remove- and that might make things easier . . . Thanks again! Best, C.
  5. Hi folks, I'm in the process of removing the dashboard - the lacquer or varnish has cracked badly, peeling away in several places and needs to be sanded back and lacquer renewed. Everything's straight forward - but of course the speedo must be drawn out and there's a lot going on on the back of it and the fuel gauge. I have to say I don't have much working space, so I'm squeezing through a half-open door and twisting and turning up and under the dash to get to all the bits. I'm at the stage where the bracket fittings are out and most of the push-in, pull-out light bulb fittings are off and out, fuel gauge connections and earth is off its connections and screw threads, and am labelling stuff up as I go. And I was sensible enough to have a pic or two on my mobile of how it was before removal for reference. It mostly seems loose and ready to come out into the cabin . . . . so I can then get to the connections on the top of the speedo . . . but seems to be baulking at the bottom. I am guessing this is because the fuel gauge must be removed?? Can anybody confirm? Tiny nuts on tiny screw threads either side of the gauge unit, by the looks?? Is there any mileage in my unbolting the dash stay (getting in the way of my chubby hands and increasingly porky bod being able to twist and access the things)? Christmas cheers to All. C.
  6. Hi Colin,

    Reading your Latest TSSC article, I thought I'd comment on the lamentable presence/availability/willingness of artists to produce car or 'thing' related artwork.

    I've illustrated all my life and have used my work to augment my (ex) graphic and magazine design design work.

    When in Burgundy, running painting (art-working) holidays, I was visited by a classic car owner - now my now chum - from Geneva, he turning up in his Coupe - and another gent who stayed with another fetching original paint scheme two-tone lavender Coupe, once owned by a member of the Peugeot family apparantly.

    In addition to his Coupe, my chum has around another 5 classics cars. But to say "thanks" for coming to visit and show me their cars (my Herald was scruffy and in dire need of renovation at the time - but a Herald nonetheless), I took to painting his primrose yellow Coupe on a half-glazed french roof tile - just because I could - and to remind him of his visit to me in France.

    That has escalated since my move back to the UK and I have painted several more of his (and one o his sons's) classics, on a now diminishing stock of french roof tiles.

    Now the point is this:- every artist will tell you that the hours they put into an individual and bespoke artwork could barely be charged for at a sensible commercial hourly rate, otherwise the works could never fall into the 'affordable' category!

    I tended to state that the tile paintings took me 10 hours' solid work. But very often they took/take more; one needs to prepare the surface prior to painting and protect the image afterward etc.. So, if one put a decent hourly rate on that, you can see that if one was touting for business in a living way, there'd be few who would think the end product was worth the money!

    I also took to producing PC generated outline-work illustrations of various cars I liked the look of - again, a different discipline, but for me not altogether the quickest or most enjoyable . . . 

    Prior to this method, I'd have used draughtsman's technical pen on acetate film or ink board. But those days are long gone!

    Enjoy the Pics!

     

    The Three Triumpheers.jpg

    Triumph Herald Coupe on Tile.jpg

    Bobs Mini on Tile.jpeg

    Bob’s Prefect d’size.jpeg

    Sean’s MGB Paint.jpg

    Conglom Cars.jpg

  7. 😉 It's cold enough not to have to worry the fridge!!
  8. I wondered who would be the Eagle-eyed sleuth!! 😃
  9. Thanks to all for every suggestion made - and listened to! Just to 'top & tail' my sudden loss of headlights, I'll recap:- Very simply, the under-front-bonnet wiring (sides & headlights) had God-awful Earth connections. Of course I cleaned & re-made any dodgy looking connections, de-tangled them from previous quick fixes etc., but as soon as that whole Earth connection was removed, cleaned, re-made as necessary, all was back to functioning perfectly. The dash switch circumstance - the one I had hoped would be the quick-fix cause, wasn't the cause. But I did get a switch from Mick Dolphin which had very much less use (mine had pull position 2 corner bakelite broken off from use), to use in preference for a long-awaited Rimmer replacement. I would warn folk regarding these:- if used, I would recommend cabling is tinned before fitting and tightening - I tried with cable just tight twisted ends and screwed up tight, that cabling was cut through, because, as far as I can see, the straight cut sides of the tightening screw goes into a slightly cupped end drilling on the inside of the terminal - acts as a cutter! Anyway, it's now a 'spare' on the shelf. So, I bought lengths of pre-slit plastic flexible conduit and tucked the front cabling into it and sealed ends with self-amalgamating rubber tape - keep the atmos out. Checked it all still worked. All good. As can be seen, it's a much neater conglomerate than having a bunch if straggly wires kicking around. Had to make and rivet new check strips (sadly I don't weld), the old having broken on bending. Now to take the remainder of the dash out, sand and re-lacquer! Cheers, All. C.
  10. Not a scoobie! What does its reverse side look like??
  11. Thanks, Josef! All suggestions welcomed! Best, C.
  12. Thanks Pimp my Vit . . . . Yep! Those Spire clips will be there when you put them there!! Nice looking renovation, there - anti-drum material even in the roof - Nice! With my headlining having been replaced, I'm literally at the 'poking-holes-in-the-lining' stakes and would rather not get it wrong! As Colin said earlier, if I can locate one of the suitable holes, a rawlplug element would probably be required in my case, as I don't suppose for a minute there are any clips located at the holes! Cheers, C.
  13. Hey Colin! Thanks for that! As I entitled the post - it's a really silly enquiry. Great photo, though - makes it abundantly clear where I need to go! No-one yet has told me if any of those 3 holes are threaded. My hunch is they probably were - otherwise my Mick Dolphin button 'hook' would surely not have a threaded screw through it!?! Of course, with headlining in already, I'm loathe to poke a hole through it not being certain . . . !! 😉 Best, C.
  14. Bonnet springs in place!
  15. Car on level ground . . . No jacks or stands employed! 😉
  16. Cheers, People! I rarely take all bolts out of caged brackets without leaving one loose in. Scared of losing them. Pleased to say no Scumbag has been at their housings. Only me who's fiddled (oh - and two previous restorers!
  17. Funnily enough, Josef, I wondered if that might be best done with the door latched. Pete H & Pete Lewis :- I've never tapped a thread in my life!! But would try to keep a 'marker' bolt or similar in a caged unit so I don't completely lose the things in their hidden locations. I assume they (all hinge-to-door & door-to-scuttle) are plates with 2 or 3 threaded hole cut? Not individual nuts ? C.
  18. Ah ha! Thanks! Yes, I don't think I'm going to be drilling any 'caged' or 'captive'(?) access holes! I noted some of the nuts were pointy-ended - no doubt intended to allow an easier 'find-the-nut' situation!!?!
  19. So is it only the hinge pin and pin channel which weats - is this what we're saying? 'C' washers? They are what? 😉
  20. Lovely, chaps. Successful:- 2nd time round! Best, C.
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