chrishawley

Tail trim is mostly self-evident: Top and bottow strips are each retained by half a dozen or so special edge clips. Can be well rusted in place so proceed along the strips gently and progressively prising to wiggle the strips free in stages. Or to put it another way the 'don't do' is to start at one end and forcefully prise it off fully - likely to lead to bent trim. Replacement clips are available but original clips are better fit so conserve if possible. Note that top and bottow strips are different length and curvature. The left and right 'horseshoes' were originally retained by each by four edge clips (of a different sort to the long trims). But this arrangement was never that satisfactory and adhesive may have been applied by PO. So, again, gentle, progressive prising. Mark the horseshoes 'L' and 'R' on removal (makes refitting easier). If horseshoes were to be replaced with better ones (repro or previously used) then there can be problems. Repro items are not faithfull to the original shape and even originals vary in how they sit when fitted. Thus if any of the four trim items are to be replaced it's not a bad idea to trial fit everything back before repainting to confirm that refitting, after painting, will be trouble-free.

Very possibly not. The pan head of the screws is most likely to foul the leading edge of the q-light and prevent the window from closing. An additional feature is that if the q-light has been on and off the vehicle a few times in it's life then the holes get oversized and generally manky. So blind rivets are really the preferable option. If the holes are really out of shape then peel rivets can be a solution. Great caution needed when refitting: The 'jump' of a riveting gun as it snaps closed can result in a dent in the wing all too easily.

I suppose we could put the current symptoms into the category of 'misfiring under load' - about which it would be possible to write pages! I'd suggest a timing issue would be low down the list of possibilities: Markedly over-advanced timing would pink very evidently ; markedly retarded timing would give low power but no particular tendency to misfire. While not ignoring other possibilities on the ignition side (point, condensor, distributor cap etc) poor fueling seems a strong candidiate. Pete has described the rubber shards problem. But I'd expand that to include accumulated detritus anywhere from the tank forward. The GT6 has it's outlet at the base of the tank (unlike the Spitfire which pulls the fuel by syphon) so crud has only one way to go - along the fuel lines. A worthwhile test might be as follows: Disconnect fuel line from carb. Disconnect +ve to coil. Turn engine on starter just one or two strokes. If unobstructed there should immediately be a forcible ejection of fuel - about a desert spoonful on each stroke. Jam jar useful. If I were considering a major recon on the carbs I'd check this anyway. Not suggesting that that will solve your problem but for £0 it excludes a possible factor.

Worth a look at the following? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225139910849?hash=item346b6268c1:g:z5wAAOSwWEFirxjH&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoKKKFschttEQ8ZHQdX%2Boe%2Fyd%2B86cm54TxRQa24gZ1qK1MC3o%2FH5G84lMecK%2BYPeQ3E5RmtM7G7E08oev2rA0GCIyH595Hj2yiZLL4rkamv%2F%2BaI7hNNR33QLb7UwROfBchuo5Vzv91A7uUB5tMTovE%2FIGk6lRGepeyoxnOhlIsWVPVSIfcKAP8a5d5k%2FRjE%2FU8TswZUsnHdde3pNHH9OYEnU%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5afysniYA

Just had a measure on my 1500 (which I consider to be reasonably sorted as regard front suspension). Apex of wheel arch to ground is approx 600mm. Distance from the lowest points of the antiroll bar U-bolts to ground is 5 1/2 inches. Not reference values by any means but might provide a context for you. Worth measuring pre-post any changes. For myself I'd proceed experimentally: hoik the spring pan up by a goodly ammount and see what happens. While you're in the area possibly just worth a check that the anti roll bar is firmly, upwardly, seated, and not been left 'dangly' by PO.

Yup, that all makes sense. No other suggestion of leakage and the fuel pipe is hard plastic rather than rubber. Might as well leave the vent pipe in place now it's there.

Spit 1500, 1978. Boot smelling of petrol. Whatever was attached to the vent on the tank has decayed to crumbs. But I don't see any witnesses of venting to the filler cap or external of the car. Is it correct that the 1500 just has the vent blanked off? Not being sure, I've vented the tank with some PVC hose out through a grommet in the boot floor. Ok?

Pretty much maximum grip between two fingers and thumb.

Not sure there's an answer to this of if it's even a question. Here goes..... Girling16 calipers rebuilt. On testing with a bit of compressed air, the pistons don't respond equally. One side moves very readily while the other side requires more sustained pressure to move. But both sides 'rock' on the seal quite nicely within what woud be the operating range of movemnt. How much inequality is ok? Or is it irrelevant in the context of the pressures that will actually be applied by the hydraulics, in use? I can see that's not quite a question. But any insights would be appreciated.

Might I suggest that the thread form, itself, is an influential factor. Some forms are designed to create a fluid-proof seal on the threads e.g. BSP-taper, NPT, Dyseal. The already-very-good seal may then be augmented with sealant (PTFE or whatever) according to cicrmstances. Other forms (e.g.BSP parallel, UNF, metric) cannot resist spiral leakage on the threads. In such cases leakage is prevented by face sealing. Which might be by soft copper washer, collapsible copper, red fibre, Dowty or others. But any of these assume there is a good, true, face against which to seal.

Took me a while to figure out that wiring. Where's the relay gone, given it's a Mk2?? I think the answer is that it's been wired up in the manner of the late MK3 GT6 which used a simple series circuit rather than a relay (even if your colours arew non-standard). That would make sense of a 'double green' since the feed to the reverse light switch is piggybacked of the o.d. circuit. Do let us know the outcome.

I can say with complete confidence that I don't know what it is. But let's suppose it's got continuity back to the battery earth (or prove it with a multimeter). Then it must be an earth for something. So, hazarding a guess, some possibilities might be earth for control box (if you are retaining this) voltage stabiliser (if VS is on back of speedo then I think that has a 'eye' earth commoned to it) wiper motor starter soleniod base (if you still have this given you've gone pre-engaged.) I'm probably well wide of the mark and I'd be interested ot know what is finally correct.

Herewith a copy of the Spit I/II wiring diagram. Should be readable as pdf but in event not I can jpeg'ise. IMG_20220812_0002.pdf IMG_20220812_0001.pdf

Had me bamboozled for a bit as the pins recieve no mention in either Parts Book or Ops Manual. Pics attached for future reference. My self cancelling is not nice in that, coming out of a turn, the steering wheel has to rotate 90 degrees in the opposite direction in order to trip the cancel. The stalk is genuine Lucas but has been replaced in the past. It's slightly shorter so possibily a substitution from a Mini. ??Maybe similar units are not quite the same in their action??

£14.79 that was a snip! I paid WAAAYYYY more for mine.

Sump pan: See below photo of a GT6 pan. Note that it is very skinny on the front extension and is rebated to sit over the steering rack. In the fitted condition there can be gnats all clearance between the sump and the rack even when everything is standard. The deep, saloon, sump doesn't fit (I have teeshirt for that). So, has to be a GT6 'skinny' sump. But depressions will have to be formed (press/beat) to accomodate the crankshaft throw on cylinder #1 and #2. #1 position is hardest because it's adjacent to rebate for the steering rack. #3 may need a tickle as well. Ops manuals for 2500 are not rare but there's one on ebay for £15 with no bids. Ends in couple of hours. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165613613374?hash=item268f57313e:g:BngAAOSw13ti7VZO

Only that since I've got to fill it anyway 140 might just make it a bit quieter.

Time to refill the diff (Spit 1500). If any is still left it will be EP90 GL4. So my reckoning is to put in a straight EP140 GL4. Any recommendations for a suitable brand? Or, as much to the point, any rip offs to avoid? I note previous vibrant exchanges on the issue of GL4 v GL5. Can I assume that GL4 is still the safe, 'don't worry about it', bet? Thanks

Getting decent alignment on the moveable panels (doors, bonnet, valances, bumper, overriders) can be a most trying business, dependent on level of perfectionism. Perhaps the main factor is that none of the moveable panels can be viewed in isolation. All need to be fitted up and progressively adjusted all in accordance with each other. Iteration is King! It's worth taking account of just how many points of adjustment influence the bonnet alignment i.e. *Hinge box fore-aft adjustment. HInge box up-down adjustment *Bonnet location cones up-down adjustment. Bonnet location cones left-right adjustment *Bonnet location plates fore-aft adjustment *Bonnet catch strikers up-down adjustment (but also possibility to add shims under striker as required) *Bonnet cross stiffener - some adjustment of tension of top panel (depending on type) Innumerbale interactions, some balanced off against others under tension. In principle the panel gaps shoudl be 5/32 to 3/16th inch all over. Hard to achieve that specification in practice but it's where to aim.

Fantastic! Hope the test run is good.

Another round of swaps and substitutions: End result is that 'long' spax (i.e. mounted to inner wheel arch) produce the only effective result. At a '1' setting the back is wallowy; at '8' it's stiff and hoppy. So I've settled on '2' as the working compromise. So that works but I still don't see why the chassis bracket shocks were so unsucessful for me. is the something about shock operating at an angle to line of force that enters the considerations?

it's possible to get a very acceptable appearance out of rattle cans. But RC paint, being either cellulose or one-pack acrylic, is (by comparison to 2-pack) very slow drying, delicate and of minimal thickness. 1200 grit will rip up cellulose (or one pack acrylic). 1500/G3 is perhaps the maximum severity one could consider. Even conventional T-Cut, for all its feebleness, will polish down fresh celly quite markedly. If you have a smidgen of paint left then it could be worth spraying a test piece and having a go on that first. RC paint is delicate, proceed with caution.

Connections. Careful here. The ones you've indicated are NPT (National Pipe Thread) which is most commonly associated with American connections. It's likely that British fitting will be British Standard Pipe (BSP). Some NPT sizes are so similar to their counterpart BSP sizes as to appear indistinguishable - but the thread is subtly different and will leak. Worth a look at (for nut and olive connection) https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=306570CN Can be tedious sorting out pipe fittings and getting to grips with particulars, but necessary. I've got one where it's 1/4 inch pipe on one side of the pump and 5/16 on the other.

Hope the attached at least give a starting clue. The right rear side bracket is in a fixed welded position. The corresponding left rear bracketry is attached with spire nuts. The three center rear supports are welded to the light panel. Positioning the bracket for the spare wheel is tricky 'cos there's limited lattitude for error. Can only really be got right for sure by trial fitting the tank, putting a spare wheel in and seeing where the foot of the bracket needs to fall.

Indirectly related, but perhaps might give some ideas...... My Spit 1500 (on SU HS4s) has long been a good runner but difficult starter and from cold was dependent on a squirt of Easy Start to get going. On close inspection yesterday I found: a) Choke cable not attched correctly restricting the range of movement, b) mechanismm acting unequally on the jets so that one carb was enriching well before the other, c) fast idle screws all wrong; imbalanced: one with no clearance from the cam, the other having masses. Equalled everthing up and set a balanced fast idle. Today. Bingo! Starts on the first turn. Obviously the arrangements on a CD150 are not the same as an HS4. But the general principle might apply of having a detailed look at the mechanism and adjustments. Possibly.