chrishawley

Another go with the picture. Is that better? That includes 'car' , screen' , 'off' I've never seen the blue and red before - every day's a learning day! Another question following from your picture: Are the legends 'car' , screen' , 'off' embosed into the plastic or are they just decals applied to the flush face of the plastic?

To narrow this down a bit: Are the ones you require as per the picture below? And, do you have the early black dashboard or the later veneer one. The escutcheon for the heater controls changed on the 'face-lift' Mk4s cockpit7.jp2

Ahhhhh. The Vitesse. How I wish I had one again. But piggy bank says not poss. As a part of getting to 'know' them one aspect with which to get familiar is the panel fit and alignment. A skilled matter to get right. Just for example the red car below was sold at auction: All lovely and shiny BUT the bonnet doesn't fit well. Compare with a period photo and just how prim the panel fit is. Plenty of other things to get to know but I'd put panel alignment as a significant factor in the 'what's it worth' equation.

Does it look rather like the attached photograph? Worth getting many opinions of this: But just to get the ball rolling with a couple of ideas: • Keying: One cause is lack of keying between one or more coats. Even if it's primer over the same primer it still requires keying. Conversely, keying with too fine a grade of wet'n'dry gives such a smooth surface that it's akin to not keying at all. At risk of making a huge generalisation a 400 grade WND is commonly used. • Cellulose behaves very differently to 2-pack. 2K hardens by chemical reaction so a 2K primer, even under faily cool ambient conditions, will be near fully hardened within a day or two. Cellulose drys by evaporation and although it may 'skin over' fairly quickly full thickness drying can takes days or even weeks (depending on ambient conditions). If then overcoated the settling and shrinkage the will proceed even slower rate. • I like 182 for certain situations but I have had adverse occurences with it. Having applied a thick coat (which I though was dry) it got 'woken up' by the thinners in subsequent coats and crazed severely over a couple of weeks. Might you consider moving over to 2K?

Yup, same thing with Halogen H4's on Spit/GT6. Eventually sussed that 7 inchers are not universal 'fit all' - and the lug arrangements may be slightly different depending on vehicle (e.g. Jag XJ6 or Mini). Suspect many sellers are unaware of these subtleties.

Imagine maybe you've got this sorted by now. In case not: Yes, light to remove, firmer to replace is correct. To replace does need light pressing, not by hand alone. Doesn't/shouldn't need a hydlauic press as such but a bench vice should do it. But , as ever, if using a vice as a low power press, careful attention that force is applied squarely and to the appropriate faces of the work.

More Hmmmmm. Resolving this could be easy-peasy or longer than a bit of string. " Suspect Suspensions Sussed" is indeed a very useful grounding. 2.05 and 1.38 degrees positive (presumably static unladen condition) while not grossly incorrect are possibly off specification. With the proviso that static unladen mesaurements are only a rough guide to the true measurements that will be observed under the loaded condition, then normal would be 2.0 to 3.0 degrees positive each side. Given one shim is about 1 degree an extra pair of shims on the right could be tried. As an aside, I recently found chapter and verse from Triumph about laden v. unladen measurements. The GT6/Vit WSM is specific that the suspension is designed, specified and set to the laden condition; and unladen measurements are only for checking when the geometry has previously been determined as correct. Expanding on Casper, above, caster setting is more critical than camber: Incorrect camber setting carries an implication that caster may not be correct. Again see SSS. Two further thoughts: 1) Front suspension geometry has to be considered along with the rear. Incorrect rear toe-in can have really nasty effects on handling not least 'sidestepping' on bumps. 2) On poor handling I've been caught out (repeatedly!) by simple mechanical factors such as steering column bushes too tight, mast pinch bolt insufficiently tight, lower steering coupling failed, looseness of components, and (many times!!) out of true wheels and 'the-use-by-date-was-somewhere-in-the-Jurassic-period' knackerd tyres. Here's hoping you get an easy solution.

One on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265694732004?hash=item3ddca3dee4:g:~QMAAOSwx5Jigl6t But just to check: It is the hinge mechanism that's failed rather the center clamp going missing in action?

Expanding on the above.... On the Mk1 the lip of the tub (i.e. where the oval holes are) carried a quite chunky, round, rubber seal the ends of which were tucked under the b-post cappings. At some point (?mk3) this got replaced with a simpler plastic U-channel edging. Thus, the quarter trim panel tucks under the lip and is secured with self tapping screws, on cup washers, into the web of the inner wing, and b-post. If Newton know their stuff the reverse of the milboard should have puched out holes where the screws should go. For a good appearance the screws should be chrome (or stainless usually has to do) raised countersunk (rsk) and not zinc plated pan head. I'd be interested to know if NC have punched out the holes for fitment.

Cup washers come in countersunk and rolled forms. Bresco would be worth a look. https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Cup_Washer.html

I only got a working knowledge of this a year ago (with a lot of hand-holding) so my experience is not that great. But here goes...... An excellent read around all these issue is three articles entitled Suspension Secrets Sussed in the Aug, Sept, Oct 1993 issues of the Courier. Go to 'Courier' icon on main club website and search by year. The attached screen grab spells out the process of caster adjustment. Caster can't be measured directly; it has to be calculated from the change in the camber angle as the road wheel is turned in and out by steering. Formula attached. It then goes like this: • Initially settle vehicle in level, straight ahead condition • Turn wheel to be adjusted 20 degrees off straight ahead (T1) and measure camber (C1) • Turn wheel 20 degrees in the opposite direction (T2) and measure camber (C2) The formula then gives K, caster, for the wheel in question. Or, as Clive pointed out, since 20in 20 out is the standardd for measuring caster the equation simplies to Caster angle = 1.5 x camber angle change. A digital inclinometer makes measuring the camber change easier but old fashioned trig works too. OR You get a outfit that has a laser alignment bed to measure/adjust it all for you. But apart from ££s that can have the pitfall that young operators may not be familiar with the particulars on a classic. I hope I've got that all right, but I'm open to correction.

Puts me in mind of the woes I had with my GT6. To simplify a long story: After rebuild, I had the suspension shimming set up by 'competant professionals'. But at any reasonable speed the road behaviour was twitchy with poor directional stability. And worse with increased tyre pressures. Much investigation (and Forumizing) later eventually nailed that down to castor not only being wrong (too little) but unequal between the sides. Now fixed. How likely is it that PO diligently assesed every aspect of steering and suspension geometry? And including in that, the rear? Perhaps not very. As an aside: I recently got given a copy of David Bastow's 1970s book on suspension design. I reckon I understand about 5% of it at best, given the complicated maths involved. But it's made made much more respectful of adherance to OE specifications and much less respectful of glib simplifications in wwwland.

Excellent advice all round. That gives me a 12-point plan to proceed systematically. One further Q. What about the rubber boots on the master cylinders? Is there a handy wheeze for getting these to seal and stay in place?

Ah! The nightmare world of GT6 door seals!!!! I can find credible authenticity photographs for Mk1 and Mk3, but not Mk2. But both Mk1 and Mk3 had the P-seal extending along the underside of the roof for about 3 inches before turning down the screen frame and terminating at about the level of the bonnet catch plates. I suppose it's a reasonable assumption that Mk2 would have been the same. The main door seals can be highly problematic. The original main seal on the GT6 (and Spitfire for that matter) was an ingenious, very flexible, multi-flap seal, but I've never seen a reproduction of it. I don't know what Rimmers would supply as this part but it could be a generic form of the foam, bubble type, side seal (albeit on furflex). These can be too fat and obstruct closing of the door (near the door latch where the gap is the least) or push the drop glass out in the top rear corner. So worth eyeing it up carefully before fitting.

Ok. Engine overheating problems now solved due to new viscous coupling. Problem now is driver overheating - generally hot in cabin area but left leg gets paticularly scorchy. So, materials and methods: • Materials: What could be recommended in terms of insulation materials for bulkhead/tunnel? So many adverts all with exorbitant claims. What's the practical experience with what works at a sensible price? For example, how would a couple of layers of Wickes finest 'bubble' type insulation stack up against sophisticated products at 6 times the price? • Methods: Any tips on methods that work? I suspect that heat transmission from the exhaust down pipe is quite a contributor. Anything to be said for exhaust wrap? heat sheilds? Open to any suggestions of the basis of engage brain before lightening wallet. THNX

Ho hum. TIG welder died on the job. It was a Chinese generic same as the photo only dressed up with different branding (if you can call Chinese generic a 'brand'). At £400, 3 years ago, with foot pedal, it really was cheap so in that respect I can't really complain. But when I think about it it it probably hasn't done more than 40 hours of duty - so that £10/hour which doesn't sound so good. On the strength of recommendations on the Forum I've gone for R-tech. Well impressed. Price reasonable, 3-year return-to-base warranty, knowledgable sales personage, 24-hour delivery and overall a much better machine; much more conrollable. Oh well, buy cheap and buy twice, I suppose.

Not 100% sure of this but.....Did Spitfire (inertia reel) seatbelts ever retract fully? I thought the free length was so that the buckle could be parked into the stowage clip at the top of the b-post. Could be quite wrong about this and I guess the stowage clips are missing from a great many Spitfires.

Thanks. Got me a definite diagnosis regarding the viscous coupling: On removal it was evident that it was pretty much non-operative. On replacement tickover rpm notably reduced (=good). Rad flushed with 10% HCl but crud was minimal, if any. So possibly hot running problems are principally due to lack of fan. Kempston Rads reckon they can squeeze an upgrade into the Dolly 1300 rad. So might consider that as one future option. Thanks again.

Current efforts are to investigate poor running problems when hot. Spit 1500 mostly standard but has both mechanical and electronic ignitions (switchable) and Dolomite 1300 radiator. But to ask about just a specific aspect for now: At a guessimate, how hot should the bottom rad hose be when compared to the top? Ambient temp was 30 degrees today but my impression that the 'out' from the rad wasn't very much less hot than the 'in'. Don't have an IR thermometer so can't be more specific than that. Let's say that the bottom was 'fresh-cup-of -tea hot'. So should I be suspecting that the rad is not clearing very much heat? Tommorrow I'll replace the water pump and viscous coupling as I know the VC is well-iffy in any case. But it would be halpful, or even helpful, to have a clue of what is a 'normal' temp at te bottom of a rad. Thnx in advance.

So much that could be said on this matter. Please regard any comments here as ‘my experience’ and not authoritative. For ease of discussion I attach a schematic with the fixing points labelled 1 thru 6. • AFAIK you didn’t have to weld the scuttle-to-chassis brackets at position #2. So position #2 is an initial guide. I don’t think you welded near #5 so that’s a guide for the rear. But these positions are not datums as the holes are oversize. To look right when finished the lips of the rear wheel arches have to have a symmetrical relationship with the wheels/tyres. So (assuming suspension all tickety boo) a vertical straight edge off both rear wheels assists in estimating if the body is centred. •Are the scuttle support brackets welded in (position #1)? If not then it may be a case of trial fitting the tub, getting a position for the brackets and then removing the tub again to weld. Drilling the floor pan correctly at #1 can only really be done from underneath. I did it by trial fitting, marking up then removing tub to drill. •If you have a standard fitting kit then as well as fasteners the will be rubber pads and ali spacers. But I’ve never found a convincing chapter-and-verse on the fitment of the rubbers and spacers. My best guess is: rubbers at #2, #5, #6 and the Ali spacers anywhere as required to take up gaps or persuade the tub into shape. • The floor cross members (#3, #4) can be a nightmare. The steel pressings themselves may require welded revisions in order to fit. Then there's getting bolts to align (UNF 5/16. 3", pointed). If your crossmember sections have crush tubes already welded in place then in some ways that's easier: The hole in the floor pan itself can be estimated and cut wide (e.g. stepper drill), the position of the section is then dictated by the bolts and welded revisions made to fit in with those. Well worth checking in advance that the captive plates on the chassis at this point are present, free moving and with good threads. * Biggest mistake I’ve made is to view fitting the tub as an isolated procedure. Rather than provisionally/lighty fitting the tub and then fitting up bonnet and doors to establish the body fit as a whole. In future I’ll ensure good all round fit before committing the tub to a fixed position. Lastly for now: Include the horseshoe (over transmission) as a part of a provisional fit for the tub. The horseshoe’s fitting between dash and floor has minimal wiggle room and helps to guide/confirm that the body is entered (as well as needing to just fit).

Here's a Spit which is correct enough to be a guide. It's two separate pieces: one for the heelboard, one for the deck. But absent on many repro carpets is the thick plastic beading sewn in to the leading edge of the deck carpet and which is a push fit over the lip at the front of the deck. Without this, or a facsimile of it, it can look a mess. The heelboard section on my GT6 annoyed me greatly because of the compromises needed to get it to fit (nip, tuck, glue). But since I put the seats in I've not seen it again (!). Hence happy.

You may be the other side of this now, but just in case. The basic procedures are set out in the ops manuals and Haynes so I won't repeat those. Add on points are: The 2000/2500 manual does not make it clear that the oil pump/dist. drive needs to be removed to extract the camshaft. Clearer in the GT6/Vitesse manual. Removing dist. and drive distrupts the ignition timing even if camshaft not being removed. So, put marks on body of dist. and its pedestal so it can be refitted in the same orientation. Note which direction rotor arm is pointing in (so that when all reassembled it points roughly the same). Undo pinch clamp and extract dist. Remove distributor pedestal (two bolts) noting the presence of gaskets and shims (if any, endfloat may beed to be checked on refitting). Note position of slot in face of the drive and that it is offset from centre. Extract drive (magnet on stick or similar). Refitting is reverse of above except that when dropping the drive back in it has to rotate to mesh with the teeth on the cam so has to be fed in 'wrong' to allow for it to be 'right' as it rotates into position. That way there's a chance of preserving an approximate timing. But only if the crankshaft is not moved and that a new cam is going in in the same timing orientation (to the crank) as the one that's come out. So best to set engine to TDC on No.1 firing before starting the work and keep it there. But from what you've said there's no 100% evidence, thus far, that the camshaft timing is correct. !

Lengths of bits of string!!!! But heres a few thoughts: • I did a respray on the wife's Copen last month. Very little correcting, filling or priming was required but it was nonethless £300 on materials and 40 hours work. So 'trade' that would have been £1500 for an easy job. • In your locality you can expect there will be many small business and one-man-shows who do refinishing at reasonable rates. But the good ones don't advertise because they don't need to. Only way to find them is to ask around. But NEVER acceed to requests for money up front 'for materials'. That's a 'walk away' scenario. • Refinishing a resto need careful planning. The most expensive respray is the one that has to be done twice. It is oh-so-easy to respray a car then find that the doors don't fit, or the bumpers don't align, or the screen won't go in etc etc etc or whatever. Trial fitting of everything is much to be recommended. • How much of a respray? A 'doors shut' respray (i.e. just the outer, visible panels) is one thing. But if it includes inside of bonnet, boot area, reverse of boot lid, door returns, bulkhead, scuttle then costs escalate rapidly. For example spraying the inside of a bonnet on a Spitfire is considerably more difficult than spraying the outside. But I guess that £2k is a realistic minimum budget. But that could easily expand depending on requirements. PS When the body is fitted up could you share some photos?

4-cyl engine. Excellent low milege condition. Ready to fit. 'Cept: Previous operative had brutally cross threaded spark plug #3. Once extracted, a new plug could not be inserted. On the off chance I tried an M14 x 1.25 tap to see if the threads would 'pick up'. Nope. Rather, the damaged thread just stipped off the wall. So, what are the options in terms of repair and thread inserts? The head's on the engine and it would be nice not to have to remove it, but removal is perfectly possible if need be. All points of view would be appreciated. I'm reasonably conversant with helicoils (etc) but never had to do a spark plug before. Don't mind forking out on good kit as much a needed. Thanks in advance.

......is that with the wire connected to the oil pressure switch? Or disconnected from it?