Iain T

If in any doubt phone Burlen and tell them you want service kits for CDS150 3224's, they are very helpful. Iain

Hi Nigel, Before putting the carbs on I thought I had better bleed the clutch as its marginally easier with them off. Fluid pee'd out of the slave cylinder union and I don't have a flaring tool or copper pipe! The threads also looked in poor condition so I ordered a Goodrich hose and 7/8th slave (I like a firmer pedal) from Paddocks. Some past numpty had also partially stripped one of the bellhousing threads but thankfully a longer screw worked. I'll use loctite when I change the slaves over. After considering the options I put a 3mm rolled pin in my brass thrust bearing carrier as the non rotation dimple in the flange has resulted in corresponding worn area. Then one of the cotton reels supporting one of the back silencer boxes was almost torn through so as usual one step forward and half back. If only I could find where I hid the oil sender and home made bracket to mount the Huco fuel pump.....??! Must take my glasses tomorrow😎 Iain

Took photos of modified intake manifold. Great intentions of firing up yesterday but then I reminded myself to be slow and careful its not a race.

Gadgetman, all done and engine is back in the car. As the machine shop lapped and balanced the crank and honed the bores etc I got them to reassemble the block as they have a dedicated experienced engine man (ex Burton Eng). I'll take a photo tomorrow of the inlet manifold to show how much material has been removed to even the flow. On another matter a friend of mine wants his 14" brake drums machined but is very concerned about getting it done correctly. Anyone know anywhere? Iain

Johny, good point I perhaps wouldn't notice a small leak that needs drainage. I'll fit it face down. My next visit to the car is tomorrow when I have to grovel under the car to refit the 6-3-1 collector box (the three pipes came out but it will be a wood block and persuader to get them back in) and the rest of the exhaust. Then onto connecting everything else. I'm enjoying the work but the 60 mile round trip is a pain especially in Covid world! Thanks again Iain

Thanks for replies, I fitted the pump with the hole facing up as I had assumed it was for lubrication. But a friend said no its for drainage so fit facing down. I'm leaving as is, so I can lubricate and as John said water flying everywhere is a good indication summit's wrong! Iain

On fitting the water pump I noticed a small 2-3mm diameter hole in the casting by the shaft. Is this a drain therefore fit down or for lubricating so fit facing up? A small issue but I would like to get it right. Iain

As to cams as I said previously I asked Newmans for a PH2 but with lower down torque. I relied on their experience and they supplied a billet cam with 270 duration and 0.260 inlet and exhaust lift plus nitride followers. I hope it works with the reworked head and increased CR. I'll post next week!

My mk2 manifold has been reworked similar to Don's and according to CTM it does help. I forgot to take another picture as I've been preoccupied putting the engine back in. Hopefully fire up next Tuesday or Wednesday depending on if I find anymore issues. New King shells, rings (the ones fitted where so tight they couldn't rotate), seals, hone, balancing, reworked rods etc fitted. With the plugs out I'll prime the oil system before crossing everything and firing up!

I used an oversized home made blanking plate and mounted the Huco vertically on two rubber bobbins. I used the plastic clamp supplied with the pump. The bobbins needed to be mounted above the old pump fixings to get the best fuel line route. Its been on over a year and working fine (I just know I shouldn't say that!). Iain

Thanks Nigel, I bought a service kit from the club. I don't have the adapter here but from memory when I spun the clip down the thread the centre piece locked up meaning the original bolt was incorrect thread length? So it seems this may have been fitted incorrectly when the engine was rebuilt 10 years ago! I haven't tried the bolt in the club kit, hopefully this will be OK. Thanks very much for your help. Iain

Morning All, When I unbolted the adaptor from the block the assembly 'exploded' into its constituent parts and fell into the dirty oil pan! I assume the threaded banjo tab is only there to align the centre part and spring while bolting assembly onto the block. This tab retains the centre part and spring, am I right is assuming to reassemble providing the centre is proud of the main body ie positive pressure on the centre seal, the system will work or is there a set offset distance? Thanks as usual Iain

Engine is now stripped and just a few faults. It seems the rings, according to CTM are very odd and the bores seem to have been honed by hand with wet and dry! No cross hatching. The mains have a very small pick up but can be lapped out. Apart from that everything seems to be within spec. The pistons when I took them out seemed OK and again CTM said they are fine. The crank/pistons haven't been balanced and weighed yet so I don't know how good or bad they are but as it is it seemed smooth at higher revs. The camshaft is I believe a Bastuck M27TR6PI and for the way I drive didn't work particularly well. I have opted for a hybrid Newman cam with a PH2 lift and power coming in at around 1800 revs. Apart from measuring lift which seems to be 0.280" I can't seem to get a spec on the Bastuck cam, does anyone know? The cam has only done 5000 or so miles so is in very good condition if anyone wants to give it a punt PM me. Hopefully all will be ready for re-assembly next week. Iain

The cone is in a good position for cold air but in the rain it will get wet, won't this reduce air intake? Iain

Maybe a silly question but what are the optimum lower and upper water temperatures for efficient engine operation? I ask because I may fit an electric fan. Iain

I can confirm Angie is answering the phone via mobile number given when you phone the shop. I placed two orders for multiple parts but one item was out of stock. Angie phoned me to say she has contacted their supplier and they are sending today. Superb service, support our Club! Iain

Jeff, I stripped both of my CDS150's down a few months ago and bought a service kit from Rimmers. The box said it was actually a Burlen product, as it has been said they supply a lot of other retailers, but the diaphragms were very thick and stopped the air piston from dropping onto the bridge. Although I could force it down it naturally sat about 2mm off the bridge. I phoned Burlen who although I purchased the kit from Rimmers replaced both of the diaphragms FOC and were nice and thin and worked perfectly. Top tip if the new diaphragms look distorted, mine did, then don't fit them they will give you no end of trouble, needle centring, not dropping correctly, just insist on replacements. As to the choke mechanism as Pete says there is no gasket between the two removable parts only from the carb body to the part with the brass tube in it. I used 1000 grit wet and dry to clean up the surfaces of the disc and all mating surfaces (but it still weeps fuel!). Make sure you put the wet and dry on a flat surface like glass, I used a quartz worktop while my wife was out, to ensure you take an even amount off. Iain

The club shop is closed to visitors but are on line orders still being dispatched? This is still unclear. Iain

I just ordered a couple of items from the clubs on line site and it took my money including p&p so I naively. So I expect the parts to be dispatched?? If orders are not going to be sent then the site should be temporarily shut down. Iain

Sorry that should read 'and edged'

Nigel, I'll take a photo when next I go to the factory but from memory they just cut back a edged the restricted area. They done loads of these and he said their mod does work. Iain

I did take a photo of the carb side of the inlet showing what they did to even out the airflow but it was blurred. As you say must have got too excited! The place I am using for machining work, CTM, have used Maxspeeding conrods (see post from Yorkshire_spam) and he said although made in China if you use their top grade they are every bit as good as Carrillo, Eagle, K1. He will get me a price, he though less that £500, and I'll let the Forum know. Chassis cleaning and prep work now. Iain

A good day, block stripped and everything at the CTM for inspection, balancing etc etc. Pics of refurbished head and inlet manifold, looks good hopefully they will work well. Next bit is painful, hit the Paypal account! Iain

Interesting and tempting, remember nothing over 9,000 rpm😁!

Cheers, scary low price for a set of 4 conrods but if produced in enough quantities perfectly feasible.