The Triumph six pot head is a bit heavier than a mini💪 As to experience there's plenty on the Forum who are happy to help.
However as you have disturbed things do check the tappet clearances........you never know until you measure!
Good luck and let us know how things progress.
Iain
Mmmm, I'd wait until the system is completely cool and see if you still have pressure in the coolant system. Also note the colour of the coolant. I would then do another compression test. It may be just an anomaly with your gauge. The testers are not necessarily accurate but helpful to show differences between cylinders. Does your gauge screw in or just push in to seal?
Having said the above my worry beads would have me taking the head off!
Iain
I've always refilled my Vitesse by raising the front to get the rad higher (drive it up ramps), opening the heater valve and filling. After a fill start the engine cap off and squeeze every hose I can then go for a spin, cool down and top up.
Iain
Compression test procedure is take out all the plugs (less work for the starter) and turn over with the throttle wide open. It gives a false value with the butterfly's closed.
Iain
Haven't used them but I believe Tex wipers are good. They have the correct crank and instead of out 5.2mm wide blade they have a wider (7mm?) alternative.
My arms have very little pressure and the blades don't really wipe correctly. It one of the things on my must do list.
Iain
If it runs ok at lower temperature it must be vaporisation. Make sure you have the thick fibre heat spacer between to inlet manifold and carbs. Fitting heat shields is a must have. I used a rubber lined P clip that holds the fuel pipe at the front of the engine. I also found my pipe from the pump to the carbs was virtually touching the block. A small tweak to the pipe sorted that.
Best of luck!
Iain
In my view the pancakes are not the problem. Yes in hot weather they possibly can make the engine tick over rich but it shouldn't stop the engine. I would check the fuel pipe runs to see if the joins are tight and anything is too close to the block and getting toasty. I have heat shields fitted to my carbs which could well fix your problem.
Iain
Yes they do! I bought one before I had my carbs rebuilt. However if you follow Pete's procedure I found there to be no (or at most 1/10th of a turn) difference between both carbs. I used a vernier to measure the depth of the jet to bridge (I like to measure). It's a nice toy to have and it satisfied my curiosity but not really necessary providing you follow the rules and are careful.
Iain
Is the engine new, you say resto?
It does take a fair amount of cranking to get the oil round especially after a layoff. I would put the plugs back in and fire up. If the green light doesn't go out after 2 or 3 seconds turn off and let us know.
Iain
It's not the only leak the chassis will still be rusrproofed!
I only found the issue as I was tidying up and cleaned the catch tray then saw a few spots on my next inspection.
Iain
The paperwork and packaging definitely said 3/8 npt. The manufacturer Gold make lots of sump plugs. I did check it was tapered but had to trust it was the right thread. As I said the one that came with the car wasn't a taper thread so rattled around and used a copper washer to seal. That weeped as well. So it's either crud in the thread or as you say they put the wrong plug in the packet. The oil has only been in for less than 500 miles but I might be able to drain it into a clean bowl. As to the plug???
Iain
It is a new 'Gold' taper plug. The one that came with the car was very loose and felt like a straight thread with copper washer. I believe the thread should be tapered?
Iain