Iain T

We all learn by our honest mistakes. At least it seems as though the problem has been identified 🤞 Iain

Kevin's profile says mk3 so it should be the higher torque setting. This could undoubtedly be the cause. Iain

Just a thought, did you have spacers under the rocker shaft pedestals? If you did have you put them back on? Iain

The Triumph six pot head is a bit heavier than a mini💪 As to experience there's plenty on the Forum who are happy to help. However as you have disturbed things do check the tappet clearances........you never know until you measure! Good luck and let us know how things progress. Iain

Mmmm, I'd wait until the system is completely cool and see if you still have pressure in the coolant system. Also note the colour of the coolant. I would then do another compression test. It may be just an anomaly with your gauge. The testers are not necessarily accurate but helpful to show differences between cylinders. Does your gauge screw in or just push in to seal? Having said the above my worry beads would have me taking the head off! Iain

I've always refilled my Vitesse by raising the front to get the rad higher (drive it up ramps), opening the heater valve and filling. After a fill start the engine cap off and squeeze every hose I can then go for a spin, cool down and top up. Iain

For heat insulation I would have thought providing you can fit them the thicker the better. Iain

If you use deformed or soft washers you can loose pressure and dare I say it cause the head gasket to fail. Iain

Compression test procedure is take out all the plugs (less work for the starter) and turn over with the throttle wide open. It gives a false value with the butterfly's closed. Iain

Inspect when you take the head off. A good set of hardened stud washers is essential. Iain PS I had to change my rad cap as it didn't seal.

Try bleeding it again? Can you see if the slave is weeping fluid and/or level in master cylinder dropped? Iain

Haven't used them but I believe Tex wipers are good. They have the correct crank and instead of out 5.2mm wide blade they have a wider (7mm?) alternative. My arms have very little pressure and the blades don't really wipe correctly. It one of the things on my must do list. Iain

If it runs ok at lower temperature it must be vaporisation. Make sure you have the thick fibre heat spacer between to inlet manifold and carbs. Fitting heat shields is a must have. I used a rubber lined P clip that holds the fuel pipe at the front of the engine. I also found my pipe from the pump to the carbs was virtually touching the block. A small tweak to the pipe sorted that. Best of luck! Iain

In my view the pancakes are not the problem. Yes in hot weather they possibly can make the engine tick over rich but it shouldn't stop the engine. I would check the fuel pipe runs to see if the joins are tight and anything is too close to the block and getting toasty. I have heat shields fitted to my carbs which could well fix your problem. Iain

Yes they do! I bought one before I had my carbs rebuilt. However if you follow Pete's procedure I found there to be no (or at most 1/10th of a turn) difference between both carbs. I used a vernier to measure the depth of the jet to bridge (I like to measure). It's a nice toy to have and it satisfied my curiosity but not really necessary providing you follow the rules and are careful. Iain

Is the engine new, you say resto? It does take a fair amount of cranking to get the oil round especially after a layoff. I would put the plugs back in and fire up. If the green light doesn't go out after 2 or 3 seconds turn off and let us know. Iain

Same here, the tyre fitter said they couldn't match the price. Iain

Yes they do. You just pick the nearest fitters when ordering the tyre(s). You can also include balancing etc on the order. Iain

The Permatex thread sealant is I believe non hardening, I suppose a bit like Wellseal, so you can disassemble. Iain

Every home used to have a tin. You can still buy it but without all the nasty stuff that probably made it work better! Iain

Good suggestion! Ta

It's not the only leak the chassis will still be rusrproofed! I only found the issue as I was tidying up and cleaned the catch tray then saw a few spots on my next inspection. Iain

The paperwork and packaging definitely said 3/8 npt. The manufacturer Gold make lots of sump plugs. I did check it was tapered but had to trust it was the right thread. As I said the one that came with the car wasn't a taper thread so rattled around and used a copper washer to seal. That weeped as well. So it's either crud in the thread or as you say they put the wrong plug in the packet. The oil has only been in for less than 500 miles but I might be able to drain it into a clean bowl. As to the plug??? Iain

I thought Hylomar was a gasket sealant and not suitable for threads? Iain

It is a new 'Gold' taper plug. The one that came with the car was very loose and felt like a straight thread with copper washer. I believe the thread should be tapered? Iain