Iain T

Kai, welcome to my world of rocker arm geometry vs Triumph! I replaced my rocker assembly with bushed and reamed arms and new shaft etc and found the same out of ideal spec geometry. I also had 40 thou machined off the head. My tappet screws hit the new Ali rocker cover! I have a posting about it in Engine topic. Like you the only way I can think to achieve the correct geometry is to machine the pedestals and fit bespoke length push rods. I haven't done this as I chickened out and opted to chrome paint my steel rocker cover. I can't see why 1-2mm could be machined off the pedestals which would make the geometry much better. FYI and any geometry calcs I think the ratio from push rod to tappet is 1:1.4. I would be interested how you made your bespoke push rods! Iain

While on a cruise last week we got talking to a lovely elderly couple and it turned out not only did we have the same surname but his son in law owns Classic Oils Ltd. Small world isn't it! Iain

True I change to recirculate auto when in a tunnel then forget to reset it.....

I never turn my climate control off. I've had climate control on cars for over 25 years and can't see the point of not using it. My wife's dad doesn't turn his a/c on and still has to wipe the moisture off his windscreen! Barmy! In my view the best invention to make modern driving less onerous. I would choose it over power steering! Iain

I've taken cars to rolling roads and tuned by 'mature experienced' mechanics who have made a right cock up. Getting the basics right is relatively easy, to get the best out of your modified engine is where the black art of trade off comes into play or alternatively spend hours and many pounds trying different permutations. But then we all love a challenge! I do agree your ears and spark plugs will tell you if all is about right. Iain

I also measure the depth of the jet to bridge with a micrometer. Every little helps to synchronise the carbs. Iain

Adjusting carbs is too a degree a black art. Unless you have lots of experience you really need some gizmos to help, I certainly do! A basic carb synchrometer to get the airflow the same on both carbs makes life soooo much easier. Then it's only needle choice, dash oil, air piston spring rates, needle centering and fuel mixture to play with🤔 Iain PS, forgot potential air leaks!

I believe most needles start around the same base diameter for a given jet. It may be the spring is slightly too heavy hence reducing the bridge gap and increasing air speed and fuel. You could try using your old lighter springs. An easy fix to try. Iain

As I said previously a Gold Plug IP03X is the correct thread and taper, made of quality stainless steel and has a very strong magnet. Opie oils and many others sell it. It isn't a standard fitting.....it's better! Getting enough leverage while laying under the car can be difficult. I can't budget my propshaft to diff nut and bolts, the last person to tighten them must have starred in Terminator! Good luck Iain

Cliff, as you've identified a problem I would first take a look at what needles are actually installed. If you've a modified engine it may be you need non standard needles. Iain

Dave, I've shimmed both door glass frames. On the drivers door I have 3mm washer shims on both legs at the bottom. The passenger side I shimmed 4mm on the rear leg to bring the top in. Still not a great seal along the verticle b post, especially at the top of the glass and I can't see a way to push the top of the glass rearward. It's better than before but not great. There was a lot of wind noise created by the passenger glass to b post gap. I haven't taken it for a high speed run to check but hope it's better. Plan B is fitting a different seal just along that area. After sticking my arm through the door inner apertures to fit the washers (fiddly) my arms looked as though I'd self harmed.....lots of linear cuts on my forearms! Good luck! Iain

Johny I agree with your calculation 🤓

Sump plug should be should be 3/8" NPT Tapered. Iain

Just taken a look at their website, I fancy trying a pint of the Good Sheppard Amber ale🍻 Only down the A2 from me, could be Beano time, remember those? Iain PS. Sorry for the thread drift, I have an electric fan and love it!

I bought a magnetic Gold Plug IP03X for my Vitesse. Has the correct taper thread and a very strong magnet. Cost about £20 off Ebay. Iain

Beer 🍺 Cheers Iain

With regard to the carrier I drilled the flanges and pushed a 3mm rolled pin in to reposition the 'stop'. The pin is standard on most new carriers sold. Fortunately my arm pins were pretty good. Iain

Don't forget the tea and biscuits. Essential workshop accessories! Iain

Colin that's an over generous assumption! Oil pump end float is the death knoll for oil pressure. Easy to check with a feeler gauge but it seems like you will hopefully have a simpler solution to your problem.

Was the oil light coming on before or has it just started? If the problem has just started then look to the items you've just replaced. Clive's reply is on the button. Iain

Another is the fire trap baffle. The ali covers don't have them.

Your not trying to fit a bonnet by yourself??? Did you get the spacer bushes, I'm sure mine doesn't have them.

As a trial and before I bought the extra fittings I screwed it into a two port boss. The other outlet being oil pressure. It worked so I purchased the fittings and mounted the needle valve in a bracket on the side valance. No leaks......so far🤞 Iain

Your welcome. I forget where I bought the extra braided hose and s/steel fittings but chose again a commercial not car spare supplier to hopefully ensure better quality. To adjust I ran the engine up to temperature and adjusted until I obtained a constant slow drip. Opening the tap really increased the drip to a constant flow and turning off reduced to nothing. The oil pressure is now 80+psi cold and 60+ at 3000rpm Iain

Putting the tappet screw issue aside perhaps having three engine mount shims on the offside is contributing to stopping the engine from settling lower. I'll have another look if in fact I could remove one or two. I notice the rocker cover centre is way off to the nearside of the bonnet. As to the odd rocker geometry it must be as Triumph designed as the pedestals are standard and to describe an equal arc from horizontal a good 3mm would have to be machined off plus correspondingly shorter pushrods. However it works so I ain't doin nuffin else! I'll put my bling chrome painted cover on and move onto something else....perhaps driving it. Iain