Iain T

Bosch W78 (no R) work well, buy from Greensparkplug. Iain

My higher lift Newman cam is 14 thou inlet and 16 thou exhaust. I think the Bastuck cam is the same or higher with more overlap. It really does depend on the profile. On this one occasion perhaps Jigsaw are right but most fast road cams have bigger clearances. I know this doesn't help! Iain

Just found the data sheet it says 10 thou for both inlet and exhaust. Seems a bit tight to me. Iain

Hi Keith, Jigsaw fitted this fast road cam for the PO in my Vitesse. It's an M27TR6PI from Bastuck, perhaps you can get the info from them or an Internet search. I've since replaced this cam so don't know the clearances and nothing in the Jigsaw file. Iain PS, I have this cam spare if you need another one!

The medium springs finally arrived from Burlen on Saturday, they are the same length and both measured about 120g to compress to 2.09" (approx 53mm). They should be 99g but then I sag when used...... So after an abortive fitting of a new fan belt, both bought and stamped the same but the new one is 20mm shorter and just too small, I leaned the mixture and went for a spin. At tick over its about 13.5. All is fine until I went up to 60+ or at higher revs when it crept up to over 16+ on the afr. So it's out with the 6J needles and in with the 7B's which are narrower mainly in the mid range up but still taper to 50 thou the same as the 6J. The flowed head must be working well! More later, I'll get it right sooooon! Iain

I've always used 20% CO2/80% Argon when mig welding mild steel. BOC used to call it Argonshield 20, I think its called Specshield 20 now dunno why probably some marketing bright spark straight out of uni thought it sounded better! We tried 5% CO2 but 20% was better. Pure Argon for non ferrous. Practice makes perfect and grind off as much galvanising as possible or your eyes will go in different directions🥴. An enclosed filtered head set is the way to go and don't try welding in the wind, the shielding gas gets blown away. Iain

Isn't this forum wonderful, ask a question and the answers just keep comin'. Ta lads! Iain

Excuse my ignorance but what's a snipe site? I only use Ebay occasionally. Iain

Peter, the springs were the same length so there's something wrong with the front spring. Unless it's been replaced who knows what's gone on in over 50 years. I will be checking the new ones thoroughly before installing. Having an afr meter with the sensor in the exhaust is a big help. Iain

Again very true! I'm stoking up on energy for our first trip to Oxford Street tomorrow......I'll do the test when I get back as I'm curious if the stronger front spring actually does push the piston down further relative to the rear.

Very true, but I have to digest my banana, ice cream and caramel dessert 😋 Iain

I agree, I've been to Jaguar and Alfa Romeo meets in the 80s and 90s that were positively unfriendly! Apart from virtually instant answers to questions on forums the Internet does let the uninitiated peruse cars to see what's out there and tickles your wallet! Iain

I checked the spring rates and the rear carb spring was about 100g but the front was a good 120g. So they are the correct medium springs for a Mk2 Vitesse. I'm not sure if 20g makes much difference but I've ordered two new medium springs from Burlen. The difference to the heavy spring seems too much, but then I don't really know! I will check the new ones before I fit! Taking a look at the plugs the front 3 are black and the back 3 the correct colour. Again not sure if the slightly stronger front spring is causing or contributing this difference. I also measured the jet to bridge and were 1.16 and 1.17mm so very equal. After several tries last year the needle heights are similarly equal. Therefore they are not contributing to any imbalance. I'll report back when the springs are fitted. Colin, just seen your post. Peter I think is from down under where the water swirls round the plug in a different direction, it's a funny world down there! Iain

Peter, I like the test rig simple and effective and shows a huge jump from blue to red springs. I'm going to lean the mixture today as its still a bit rich on tickover and buy two blue and two red springs. When driving at 50-60+ and applying medium acceleration the mixture gets lean which indicates the springs are too weak, as I said I have no idea of the age or state of the current springs. But on seeing your test rig I might check them. I think the 6J needles are probably ok with 50.0 thou at bottom as opposed to 56.1 thou for the standard 6AC. The 7Bs are 50.6 thou and slightly narrower than 6Js through most of the range but the final stage. Iain

I need to have a shot of rum and think this over! Too many permutations. Iain

I need to wind up the jet and use treacle in the dash!

Thanks, so a weak spring allows the damper to rise more and the mixture would be weaker? I have no idea the current spring rate as it not colour coded. But then with a weaker spring would that also weaken the mixture on acceleration, something I do not want. Mmmm dunno.......

I've been twiddling' in the sun today and took the car out to check if the new leccy fan works (it does) but I noticed the AFR meter showed it was running rich. The engine has been 'got at' with a ported and gas flowed head, increased CR so the standard 6AC needles were way too lean at higher revs and acceleration. I have 6J needles installed (each one the same height and the jet depth is calibrated) which are more tapered and are much better but not quite right. The carbs are also synchronised. It seems as though I need to screw the jets up to weaken the mixture (it's running at around 12.5 at 2000rpm) but if I do it gets too weak accelerating from about 3000rpm up. I have a set of 7B needles which are slightly thinner over the middle 2/3rds range but this would result in even richer running. I have 20/50 oil in the dash pots. My question is does the damper spring rating effect the mixture on acceleration or is it there purely as a return spring on de-acceleration? Would a stronger spring and raising the jet work? I can try the 7B needles in tomorrow and wind the jet up to get a good reading at tickover but am curious as to the function(s) of the damper spring. Anyone's thought please? Iain

My boss kept his single seater 1930's MG K type racer in the company foyer, lovely looking car with that small 6 cylinder supercharged engine. I squeezed into it one day, it was a very snug fit! The foyer always smelt of old cars......lovely. It was very much like this one https://images.app.goo.gl/ksS1zfPYWTE73ps88 Iain

Dave, had the same issue but with my exhaust and bought a selection of sizes! With hoses it's even more difficult to determine the correct size as they are compressible. Great product and much better than jubby clips. Iain

Shops open on Monday, I think I'm in with a good chance! I can see that gleam in her eyes....shopping, bars, restaurants, holidays.......gimme more!!

I'll wait until she buys those must have shoes then get her to sign off the rad!

It's the shaft diameter that dictates the correct part. As Roger said you could have a 8-8mm or 8-6mm if you want to use a 6mm diameter centre bar. Upshot is the 8mm version will fit on the 5/16" shaft but requires a grub screw to stop rotation. Iain

I've spoken to these people, anyone used their rads? https://custommaderads.co.uk/product/triumph-vitesse-aluminium-radiator/

It was a new Bastuck rad fitted by Jigsaw 3 years ago therefore I've been resisting fitting an Ali rad but it's the next step if the new fan isn't up to the job. I'm pretty confident this will do the job and stops my wife from yelling 'how much more are you going to spend on the money pit? " Iain