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avivalasvegas

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Everything posted by avivalasvegas

  1. I have installed these on my Classic Mini and can safely state that distance penetration was superior to halogen, as was illumination speed and intensity. I believe it really comes down to the quality checks on the assemblies sold, which is why I only buy from the above link, an enterprise run by a helpful, knowledgable chap, Duncan.
  2. I just purchased the following LEDs for my dash instruments and front side lights. All in warm white to preserve the original look. 1) https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/glb987-e10mes-48-lumen-8-smd-led-warm-white-bulbs-dashboard-gauge-lighting-1?_pos=2&_sid=0ba4640d5&_ss=r 2) https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/ba9s-warm-white-led-sidelight-gauge-number-plate-bulb-glb233-989?_pos=1&_sid=b5701292c&_ss=r I plan on purchasing their LED 3000K headlight kit at a later date, as I've found the difference in lighting to be impressive for the price.
  3. My driving style is somewhere in between pottering about and the spirited driving you describe. The good news is that these cars are really enjoyable even at London's 20mph speeds Will go for the MED short stubs (thanks for sharing the link) as I'm a big believer in getting the best part available for the car.
  4. Lever, knob and steering are all not original. Here's an image of what I'm after. Thanks again!
  5. It's likely that oil is leaking from the cap but it isn't crankcase pressure that's causing it. We checked. Very keen to understand what is causing the leak by the rear seal and the dipstick. The breather setup will be removed. -
  6. Thanks very much for this! I've reached out to him and hope he still sells them!
  7. Yes, worn, very old and driven when flat in the rear. He did say the discs don’t need replacing but perhaps could be resurfaced.
  8. Still on the lookout for the steering + shifter. Thanks in advance for any leads!
  9. A quick note to share my first upgrade to my 1969 GT6 Mk2. While the OSRAM 21W/5W LED brake light intensity is comparable to the incandescent, what is noticeably improved is illumination time. I estimate full brake illumination occurs a second sooner, which may not sound like a lot but at motorway speeds, can lead to a significant difference in stopping distance. I only buy OSRAM/ Philips or Sylvania LED lamps as I believe they are manufactured in a superior manner to the Chinese garbage that's sold everywhere. Now my next project is to find a high mounted rear stop light for the rear glass, if one was ever sold.
  10. Took the GT6 to Dale today. He spent well over an hour driving and then examining the car on the ramp, and did not charge me for his time today. His takeaways are below: - RKM 596G is a solid car with a few minor but significant safety issues in need of addressing, namely unsafe tires, very unsafe brakes and suspension linkages/ bushings that need replacing. More on this below. - Dale is clearly not a fan of the SU Carb + Kent Fast Road Camshaft setup and shared he does not believe the car will ever run right. (The car did smell like it was running rich.) I later learnt that he meant that he does not believe it will never idle smoothly at 800 rpm like a stock car would. (I would very much like to prove him wrong) - Dale asked if the carbs had short stacks installed. They do not. He insists that they are essential for high rpm fuel/ air mixture. - Dale did not find a leak at the brake master cylinder, begging the question if a leak existed elsewhere, perhaps in the rear drum assembly, given the very long brake pedal play/ weak braking. He suggested full adjustment and a servo installation. We agreed to avoid the servo installation for now and to sort its standard brakes first. Dale also did not believe that Mintex 1144 pads were the right match for a slow driving city car, given their performance when cold. - Clutch fluid was found to be dangerously low which he kindly topped up right away. - Oil leak at the rear of the valve cover had him perplexed as the car does not vent gas through the oil cap at idle (aka no oil blowby), making us wonder why the rocker cover rear and dipstick are leaking oil. He does not believe the oil catch can is helping matters at all. That's most of his findings - I am awaiting an estimate before taking it back in. Do any of these issues sound familiar?
  11. If I understand correctly, you're saying they used the GT6 prototype hardtop, added a more power due to the weight increase, and you're saying road version development is not linked to the race car in the above video somehow? It's either a race Spitfire or a race version of what became known as the GT6, so which one is it?
  12. I had no idea the GT6 had Le Mans racing pedigree. While it didn't win, it clearly is an incredibly undervalued and under appreciated vehicle, given the selling price of every other car it raced against. I expect this will change rapidly.
  13. It would appear that 175/70 R13 Michelin’s are no longer available, so that ends that debate. In my experience, they’re excellent tyres so it’s a genuine shame. Ive decided on the Continental Eco 6 tyre. Will circle back to share my impressions ASAP.
  14. After several attempts with Adrian Flux, Peter James etc. I found Lancaster to provide the most reasonable premiums and, by far, the highest agreed valuations on the market. While their customer service standards leave room for improvement, I only have to deal with them once a year, a small price to pay for the above.
  15. The Les Leston wheel looks awfully similar to what I already have on the car. Shame, I really liked the look of that Mk3 spitfire wheel!
  16. I'm looking for the original GT6 MK2 steering wheel to replace my wooden steering which I will happily trade, as I try to bring the car back to original spec. Also looking for the shifter handle + knob to revert mine back to stock. Any leads would be greatly appreciated!
  17. Here's the list of issues identified to date: 1) Severe steering wheel shudder (vertical and horizontally) over any surface imperfections. (Feels as if both tie rods are missing when turning) 2) Braking lacks substantial stopping power. I would describe it as unsafe. 3) Oil leak emanating from the oil cap and rear of the rocker cover. 4) Speedometer cable danced and then stopped entirely. 5) Temperature gauge and hazard light switch not working. 6) Clutch fluid appears low 7) SU Carbs appear to have been incorrectly set up. This may be why the car idles around 1350 rpm, does not start without application of Choke and misfires at high rpm. 8) Fuel gauge is over optimistic (caused me to run out of fuel on my way back). Perhaps it’s the voltage stabilizer if not the fuel sender? 9) Prominent rattle, increasing when the headlights are turned on, adding load to the alternator. 10) Horn does not work Out of curiosity, has anyone installed additional gauges where the stereo would normally rest? I can see good use for an oil pressure, voltmeter etc. A picture would be nice if so!
  18. I'm researching tyres at the moment and have had fantastic experience with the Continental EcoContact 6 on my Classic Mercedes W115. It's rare that I pick a brand over Michelin but I'd have to say Continental really did it well with this tyre. On my Mercedes, I experiences really low rolling resistance and excellent grip. I have what appear to be Dunlop 13X5.5 wheels on the Gt6 so I'm guessing the 175/70 R13 size that's on the car is ideal?
  19. Thanks again for taking time out of your day to give us all your thoughts on the car, Steve. I must admit I was relieved to hear that someone experienced like you approves of the purchase I have an appointment with Moordale next week to get their thoughts on how to rectify the issues you've raised and more importantly, what it will cost me to rectify them. I'm far too inexperienced with Carbureted cars to attempt this myself (as a classic diesel owner). I've also looked at replacement tyres and have shortlisted the 175/ 70 R13 Continental Eco Contact 6 rubber unless anyone suggests another better brand?
  20. I was able to learn a few things about the GT6 after reviewing the extremely detailed service records in depth: 1) The car has had poly bushes installed < 8 years ago. 2) The car has the spin on filter conversion done over a decade ago. 3) The SU HS6 1 3/4 carbs have had short dashpots, pistons and dampers installed for bonnet clearance I have no recent history of steering service, brake work or a carburetor tune up since 2014. The symptoms described continue to persist. I have booked an inspection at Moordale Motors next week.
  21. Quick update, the speedometer has quit Disco dancing altogether and has simply quit. Also, there seems to be persistent fuel starvation issue experienced after running out of fuel. I have my doubts but I may have blocked the fuel filter with tank debris last night. Or worse. Mid level throttle input is met with jerking and this is worsened in higher gears at lower speeds - this wasn't the case before running out of fuel last night. Here are a couple clicks of the car alongside the star of New vs. Old, the Youtube car show
  22. Speaking of fuel, I did the 230 mile trip on what appears to be around 30 liters of petrol. I'll know more precisely in the weeks ahead as I measure everything but that translates to close to 35 Imperial mpg. Surely, that can't be right? The car does have factory overdrive (I'll need to research how/ when to correctly engage it)
  23. I had just under a quarter tank left and didn't expect it to run out. I was 5 miles away from Warwick Services on the M40. Still, I should have known better!
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