avivalasvegas

Exactly. I would never put a Chinese part on any of my cars. And that was before COVID19!!

It would appear that the market is flooded with Chinese made products, which is something I'd prefer to avoid. Dale @ Moordale had rebuilt my equipped clutch master cylinder but that has since failed very quickly, leaking and damaging the paint underneath it. As such, no option left but to replace it. Any thoughts on where to purchase a replacement that has the least likelihood of failure in the near future? Witty anecdotes welcome but only if you supply a purchase link with it Cheers!

I suppose I was subconsciously drawn to support an independent guy in his garage over a larger business. That his foam is rated higher (and firmer) and costs less than anything else out there sealed the deal for me!

Many thanks! Owen includes a bunch of mounting hardware (zip ties I believe) with his kit. Once it arrives, I’ll be sure to share more. For now though, can’t wait for a more comfortable ride!

In his infinite wisdom, the previous owner (headmaster Barry) had installed low back recliner seats with adjustable headrests from a Mk3 when he restored this Mk2 GT6. The foams have since perished but the leather covers themselves are still good. To get things as firm and supportive as new, I've since ordered replacement foams from Park Lane Classics as they were £150 cheaper than everyone else, including Newton. I also liked that Owen took the time to review images of my seats to confirm that I was ordering the correct ones. Sadly, I have to wait till the Summer to get them.

Any recommended/ reputed brand? A purchase link would be much appreciated!

I expect this brand would be relatively unknown to Triumph owners (I could be wrong). In the Classic Mercedes world, Liqui Moly has a robust reputation and their MOS2 friction reducing oil is highly regarded. I use it my 240d and 300d and have had a positive experience (lower idle noise, smoother low speed acceleration, increased measured fuel economy). I was pleasantly surprised to find it available in the 20W50 grade and am tempted to replace Valvoline VR1 from my next oil change. For those who aren't familiar, MOS2 is a Classic motor oil additive that is supposed to rival Zinc in its friction reducing properties. For those who are, I was wondering if anyone has used this oil in their Classic Triumph? This MOS2 video summarizes the oil reasonably well.

They work correctly with the extension brackets on a Rotoflex car?

I was under the impression that the genuine Metalastik Rotoflex couplings were no longer available and that the aftermarket options were not as good. Came as a surprise to me when I saw this seller selling genuine Rotoflex couplings made by Metalastik. Is this a known product that I have somehow missed?

Apparently these are sold as part of the Rimmer Bros Koni Rotoflex kit. Slightly cheaper to purchase them and the mounting hardware separately. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1306KONI

Incase anyone's interested, I was able to pick a pair of rear Koni 80-1389 shocks for 20% off (£83 each) today thanks to ebay's 20% off promotion. These are the Mk3 shocks that I believe are sold as part of their kit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Koni-Classic-Red-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Triumph-GT6-Mk3-74-74/232561605156?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Promo Code: Picksave20

Just got back from a day on the rolling road at ATSpeedracing (thanks for that referral - the guys were absolutely brilliant and exemplify "there's no school like the ol' school!") They were absolutely adamant against the 123 systems and went through several examples you just don't read about. The chap who worked on my car looked like he was in his 60s and had the table manners of Basil Fawlty. This is why I believed every word and retained my magnetronic equipped Lucas 22D6. After 3 hours of replacing springs, modifying needles and tuning the distributor, the car was tuned for drivability (vs. peak power) and it's safe to say the car has been transformed. So much smoother and feels much more sprightly at speeds < 60 mph. Torque curve showed steady through the rev range with power continuing to build all the way to the redline thanks the extremely aggressive Camshaft (290 degrees 35-75-75-35 lift of 405-415 th) the previous owner installed.

Closing the loop on this topic. I've decided to get the Bosch Silver 5 year battery when its on sale on Tanya's ebay listing next. Many thanks for the inputs!

Interestingly, after speaking with Collin at Atspeed, he didn't speak highly of the 123 at all. Hit and a miss, with more of a miss, was his description. He recommended sticking with the Magnetronic conversion and letting him have a go at the car and then suggested deciding on the purchase. Safe to say he sounded very experienced and had a GT6 and a TR6 at his location today.

Laws like this ensure we slowly continue devolving into a backwards country.

Very useful information. I have the Fram 2964 on my car and don't trust the brand at all. I've learnt from experience to trust German filters and will purchase the OC981 based on your recommendation. Cheers!

I'm sold on the 123. Assuming I get one, my next challenge would be finding a specialist skilled and experience with tuning on a Rolling Road. Any suggestions?

I paid £50 for each Continental Eco Contact 6 tyre I purchased and they're excellent. Far superior to the Maxxis option and roughly within the same price range. Highly recommend them!

After checking the previous owners note, it appears I have the Lucas with "red" rotor arm equipped. Interestingly, there is a later note that states that Magnetronic ignition and magnetronic coil with ballast resistor installed in 2010. This was recently "unseized" by Dale after being set to max advance somehow. The 123 sounds like the better option in that the work is front loaded. I believe this is the specific recommended unit? If I haven't missed anything, now I'll need to send the tachometer off for conversion and find someone with experience tuning this on a rolling road. Any suggestions?

Thanks for this! I'm torn between the 123 or getting the dizzy rebuilt by the distributor doctor. A basic calculation show that the 123 option will be over 2X costlier than the Doctor's rebuild, especially if the ~£200 conversion of the tachometer is factored in Would the difference in mid range drivability/ efficiency be noticeable between these two options? I ask as reliability (install and forget), quality and drivability are far more important to me than cost. The car is driven 3K miles a year, so not a garage queen but also not a daily driver.

Encouraging. What did you do to your tachometer?

Any thoughts about Optronic? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID009510

I was recently told (Dale @ Moordale Motors) that the 123 Ignition Distributor kit is the most reliable solution available. (He described it as an install and forget kit). The only downside was that the tachometer would need to be converted to a digital unit as it does not support mechanical tachs. Wanted to ask for inputs from anyone who has installed a 123 kit or if another solution can compare, perhaps with an explanation why? Many thanks!

I believe the Rimmer Bros kit is correct but have no way to verify this sadly.

Just got the car back. My impressions on the koni shocks and brakes are below. The blown fuse was caused by an electrical fault that was due to extra gauge wiring installed by a previous owner. Also, the bonnet rattle that has long plagued the car is now entirely gone. The car seems so much more refined and quieter than before, and continues to improve. That said, two new problems have arisen: 1) Interestingly, after some adjustment to the choke to improve cold starting, the car now shudders when idling and occasionally dies. It is by no means a pleasant cold start. 2) Sadly, the headlight stalk appears to be misbehaving. It doesn't activate high beam or low beam easily anymore but sometimes both come on and sometimes all illumination is turned off entirely. Any thoughts?