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avivalasvegas

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Everything posted by avivalasvegas

  1. avivalasvegas
    That was my first thought but the tyres are new and were balanced by an experienced technician.
  2. avivalasvegas
    I've been doing a bit more research on this. Turns out, as may have been mentioned, the Koni Rotoflex shocks are NLA. But, Rimmer Bros sells this kit. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1306KONI If I've understood this correctly, I'll need to convert my rear setup (pictured 5 posts above) to install Koni shocks or stick to Spax adjustable shocks without the conversation?
  3. avivalasvegas
    Got the GT6 back today. My word...what a difference! A few observations: 1) The Mintex pads are squealing loudly from 10mph down to stop. I called Dale to ask if this was expected and he didn't hesitate to say "Aha! I told you so! Mintex are noisy and Greenstuff are quiet". I did do a few 70-40mph hard braking runs to bed them in on the way home. 2) I thought the motor was powerful before but now that it is correctly tuned, power is through the roof, the oil leaks are gone and it idles at 900 rpm when cool. I couldn't contain the widest smile on my drive home and am genuinely worried I may have too much fun for my own good in this thing! 3) The steering and gear assembly is the biggest area of change, by far. It feels very tight and nimble and the lateral and vertical shudder/ shake is gone. Almost. The steering wheel still vibrates from side to side at motorway speeds. Really looking forward to enjoying this car!
  4. avivalasvegas
    Sounds like what you're suggesting in that case is "trust" the mechanic and forget about estimation? I'm not sure if all the work done on the car was ambiguous. Then again, I haven't worked on these cars so do not know if working on a dizzy takes more time vs. say a Classic Mini which takes 30 mins tops.
  5. avivalasvegas
    Dale charges £54 an hour if you're a member of the "other" club. Otherwise £60. It's not the highest or lowest I've paid for Classic cars. And yes, expertise deserves a premium. The only open question in my mind is whether the 30 hours charged is proportionate to the work done. Seemed 5 hours more than most would suggest but I suppose I'll find out soon!
  6. avivalasvegas
    I have no doubt. I'll reserve comment till after I drive the vehicle but at this stage, I would not describe Dale as inexpensive. Hopefully, the end result will represent good value. Are other well known Triumph specialists out there?
  7. avivalasvegas
    Received my final bill from Dale today. Ouch! Good news is that the high idle and rich running issues were solved by the distributor being set correctly (it was set at 46.5 degrees). I haven't driven the car now but am told that it brakes, steers and accelerates like a GT6 should.
  8. avivalasvegas
    Found this stashed with the original owners documents that came with the car. Thought it may be useful to some.
  9. avivalasvegas
    It's going back in, don't worry. I've also found a blanking plate for the gauges
  10. avivalasvegas
    You mean this ? I believe I had a leather boot on there but you're right - the rubber looks more built for purpose. I'm also going to need the metal clasp that fastens to the edge of the gear shifter leather boot, connecting the boot to the shifter. No idea where I'm going to be able to find one!
  11. avivalasvegas
    Steadily getting it back to original. Note, MED short stubs are gorgeous but the vacuum hoses not yet hooked up. Wanted to share the revised carb setup regardless. Hopefully, we can get the idle to settle down.
  12. avivalasvegas
    This is the light I have installed, made by a lovely chap named Hazen Wardle in the US. £100 plus post. It is as OE looking as possible. I have also installed OSRAM LED bulbs in the brake lights. They do illuminate quicker than incandescents but I may need to repaint the reflectors for more illumination.
  13. avivalasvegas
    This post has scared the living daylights out of me. I wouldn't want our GT6 to be hit by an idiotic lorry driver. Fortunately, London is largely 20 mph now but still, to help mitigate this, I've invested in a high mount third brake light ( at the top of the rear screen). It is a very low car so I'm not sure what else can be done?
  14. avivalasvegas
    Noted. Dale's been busy
  15. avivalasvegas
    Is Trupart superior to the options available on those websites or are they the same? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SPITFIRE-III-IV-1500-HERALD-1200-GT6-I-II-GIRLING-NOS-WHEEL-CYLINDER-x-2/264978137441?hash=item3db1ed8161:g:D-4AAOSwcUBfZk-S vs. https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/wheel-cylinder-mk11-models-2
  16. avivalasvegas
    Those were the same pads (£45 on ebay) I was told to purchase earlier in this thread so was surprised to learn that they needed grinding.
  17. avivalasvegas
    Heard back from Dale today. "I have had a good look at the brakes now and can tell you that the OSR wheel cylinder is seized solid, doing nothing and has been like that for some time! The NSR cylinder is weeping and so we need 2 new cylinders and the cable is over-adjusted, kinked and has the pull off spring holders on the wrong way round (as is 1 internal spring) and the rear brakes themselves are under-adjusted, so that all needs sorting out too. For now I have cleaned the rear brakes up and keyed the surface of the drums, reassembled and moved on to the front where I have freed off the pistons in the OS caliper which were causing it to bind, cleaned up the calipers, fitted the Mintex pads with the correct pins/shims as supplied inc drilling out the pin holes which were the wrong size and grinding down the pad backplates to allow them to be fitted (they are not Vit/GT6 pads), applied the CeraTec coating and renewed the fluid which was as old as the hills. Unfortunately the stub stacks you have supplied will not fit inside the air filters on the car. This is because the filters are offset (eccentric) compared to the carburettor intakes and being quite large the stub stacks sit where the filter needs to be preventing reassembly. It will be necessary either to fit the smaller stub stacks I have or to replace the air filters with central (concentric) ones. Let me know what you want to do and then I can get on with sorting the breathing/tuning out I will repair the clutch master cylinder which is leaking and renew the fluid there too" I've decided to replace the filters. Hugely relieved the brake issue was obvious and clearly something that was neglected. Is there a preferred manufacturer for brake cylinders?
  18. avivalasvegas
    Agreed on their catalogue. I did contact the seller and they are confirmed as designed to fit the Rotoflex cars. I'd be very interested to know if anyone has the above exact Spax parts on their car and their experience with them before I purchase a set for mine. Cheers!
  19. avivalasvegas
    I believe they are Chinese with a poor reputation, which makes them an instant avoid. Genuine Timken bearings are hard to beat but equally hard to verify as genuine.
  20. avivalasvegas
    These SPAX adjustable rear shocks seems specified for Rotoflex cars. And they're very reasonable. What am I missing? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spax-Adjustable-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Triumph-GT6-Mk2-Mk3-Rotoflex-68-70/311987463504?hash=item48a3e6e550:g:muMAAOSwETJZ74ka
  21. avivalasvegas
    The usual - air, electricity, vacuum and/ or water. I was hoping a "factory look" option existed as I am trying to keep the car looking as original as possible, easier said than done. I was able to pull this off with the Classic Mini to some extent!
  22. avivalasvegas
    Perfect question deserving of its own thread. I'm just relieved to have found everything eventually. Any suggestions on a gauge cluster parts (including gauges) for the area behind the shifter?
  23. avivalasvegas
    First batch of parts going on the car below. Very excited to have brakes that are non-decorative in nature!
  24. avivalasvegas
    Sound advice- result pictured below. The steering wheel is the only one I could - I suppose it’ll have to do
  25. avivalasvegas
    I avoid Exide in general and while I was a fan of Yuasa back when they were a purely Japanese battery company. They've since shifted some manufacturing in Guandong, China, which is where the battery I purchased was made. It lasted 2 years before erupting, causing corrosive damage to my battery tray on another vehicle. Since then, I've purchased Bosch/ Varta 5 year batteries.
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