Stratton Jimmer

As I said before, I wound mine right off - fully negative as shown on the shocker and then advanced it in the positive direction by only two clicks. This seems amply firm enough. The back end seems fine - not too harsh but it definitely doesn't wallow about.

I haven't tried the hardest setting but there's definitely a solid stop at the soft end. One of the pair was seized and I followed the advice given by Pete, above, to free it off. From the softest setting I wound it up as far as six clicks but then brought it back down to two. The non seized shocker was on two clicks in the positive direction hence my choice. Test driving shows this to be a very acceptable setting for the roads around Stratton St Margaret. The back end which has CD drive shafts is well planted and handling through tight bends is superb.

I didn't replace them. They were on the car when I purchased it but had been disguised with blue paint. A quick run over with a wire brush and hey presto, they are GAZ branded shocks.

Got mine today and have now found out why Stags are so unpopular. p. 60 tells me that they make "45 bhp. NET @ 5,500 rpm." A bit gutless if you ask me.

They are indeed Gaz shocks so no more mystery. I followed Pete's advice on freeing up the adjusters and have now set them on 2 clicks. A quick test run within the last hour has confirmed this to be a realistic setting similar to that of IainT.

Thanks everyone. Collectively you are the "font of all knowledge".

Just wondering if anyone may have an idea what brand of shock absorber this might be. It has been "colour coded" to match the delft blue GT6. Pressing down on the rear of the car with my 77 Kilos (11 stone) results in virtually no movement so I'm looking at some suspension adjustments.

Every dealing I have had with Paddock's has been excellent. I haven't had any problems either with Rimmer's (price excepted) or Canley or Moss (price excepted). My most recent acquisitions have been via Monktons which is online but is Richard Symonds outlet. He can be slow but is definitely good value for money. https://www.monktonsclassiccarparts.com/

Miracles can and do happen! One leaking hose found but otherwise satisfactory.

I drove my GT6 out and about and also fired up the Sixfire and snapped it on the driveway. Both cars are featured on the Drive your Triumph site somewhere around the 300 mark.

Only about 3mm. Self cut gaskets from sheet. P.S. Stratton is where I live, The name is Jim but round here, anyone named Jim is called Jimmer.

Rich asked me to help remove the studs from his water outlet elbow (I always thought these were bolts but hey!) One had been snapped off leaving only about 8mm of stud sticking out of the block. The blow lamp was duly applied for best part of ten minutes and my best Mole grips then got a grip and did the job. He has a buyer for this car and we fitted a recon water pump, elbow and thermostat housing with bolts. If anyone is interested, he has other cars which he could be persuaded to flog including a mk2 2500pi and a 2000s. He also has many spares for the bigger saloons. Tomorrow, we will hopefully finish rebuilding the engine. It will be a minor miracle if it starts!

I have had the same problem with the HS6 SU carbs on the Sixfire. The mechanical pump was overpowering the float needles. It is a replacement pump which I believe came from a certain company with a "grimmer" reputation than some. Additional spacing between pump and block resolved the issue.

Looks like the same tunnel that I have albeit the PO had hacked it about mercilessly. I filled in "his holes" with a shaped piece of thick plastic from a five litre fence paint container (SPOT THE BODGE) and rivetted it into place as the hole was huge. I sealed that with Gorilla glue and then using contact adhesive, lined the inside of the tunnel with foil thermawrap insulation. I am now so adept at tunnel removal and refit that I can do either task in less than ten minutes. There had been a hole for gearbox filler access which was incredibly fiddly to use so I filled that too.

I recently fitted CDD's CV driveshafts to my GT6 and they (so far) seem to be excellent. I'm not far from Gloucestershire albeit that it is a big county if you wanted to take a look. The CDD shafts are more expensive than the shop ones but they are extremely well made.

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying here. I see no tube unless you mean the female bullet. The switch shown in picture number 5 of the 6 is the same as that on both my Spit and GT6 each of which uses the lucar connectors to push into the upper holes of the switch as illustrated. It doesn't seem like a bodge as they work really well.

That cable wouldn't fit either of my cars. Only the spade type will.

Or Tockenham near Royal Wootton Bassett which is pronounced "Tonnham" and Mildenhall near Marlborough which is "Mynull".

By my reckoning, the terminals of your wire to the OD gear lever switch are wrong in every respect. They should be two small female spade type connectors which push up into the switch and connect against the internal lugs. You can check the solenoid action by turning on the ignition, putting the car in 3rd or 4th and shorting the two switch leads. With your tunnel cover off, you should easily hear the solenoid click in and out as you do so.

I worked at AERE Harwell for three years back in the 80s and I still glow in the dark.

I dislike SU carbs with a vengence yet both my cars have them. The Sixfire has HS6 while the GT6 has HS4. The GT6 runs better than the Sixfire! Once I have the right manifold, one of the cars is going to inherit the pair of CD150s I have and the sooner the better. (It will probably be the Sixfire.)

Me neither!

It sort of works but doesn't distinguish between the two "Gs".

I do know the naughty version which was commonly used by erks.

In the RAF the mnemonic used was Betty Brown Runs Over Your Garden But Violet Grey Walks. As for the rainbow, we were taught Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain.