rogerguzzi

Hello Darren Good luck it will be ok it may run like an old Diesel tractor but will get better? I am a long way off I keep altering things and making myself more work! But I do not expect the car to be on the road before March/April Roger

Hello Paul I Glued a new veneer onto my new dashboard and I did stain it very slightly (I think?) I did tests on off cuts to see what the colour it would be as I did not want it too dark(like the Burr Walnut a lot go for) I use this type of veneer(not from them! Ebay) http://www.preciouswoods.com/site/index.cfm?id_art=92950 This was the Forum link I ran http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/818-dashboard-veneer/ Roger

Hello Paul I used that product when I made a new dashboard last winter. I put at least 12 coats on? you can mix some up and keep it in an air tight jar and the brush in a plastic bag and keep adding coats as soon as one has dried just do not let it harden to long(it seemed ok for a day) or you have to wait for it to fully cure. Then flat betwwen some of the coats, I did not use anything more coarse than 800 and fininshed with 2000? Then use their Burnishing cream and you if keep going you will get a very high gloss finish.(I stopped before it got to shiny! to up market for Spitty I thought) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rustins-Polishing-Compound-Plastic-Coating-Burnishing-Cream-63ml-/201460271955?hash=item2ee7f7cb53:g:-t4AAOSwAYtWN5RZ It seem to be working ok it has been baked in Italy(2.5 weeks) and rained on in Ireland and only one crack but that is because centre section did not sit quite flat(my fault and its a bit narrow next to the fuel gauge) Roger

Hello All I thought I would test the pump today ready for fitting into tank I put into a watering can full of diesel and put the pump outlet back in through the spout. I switched it on and I thought I had bought a duff pump as I could not hear it running(B*****r I thought ) but I had got the radio on in the garage so I turned it off and bingo it was pumping like a good one(panic over) I tested with a meter to see what current it draws and it is 4 amps and when I put my finger over the end I sprayed diesel everywhere so it pumps ok? I also checked the flow unrestricted and it is about 4 to 4.5 lt/min I dont think I will be able to hear it in operation and it only runs for 2 seconds on switch on unless there in crank rotation(ie it stops if the engine stops) but I do have a safety cut out switch that I fitted when I went to electric pump 5 years ago. Roger

Hello All Some progress today? I have welded/brazed the fuel tank so now it should be fuel tight(I think I will use some tank sealant first as there is only 2 holes below the fuel line) I fitted the baffle with 2 x 4 mm steel screws and nuts that have been brazed over(I fitted the screws from the inside? how I hear you ask? I soft soldered them to a length of 1/16" welding wire and just heated them up when fitted to get the wire off) I drilled 4 x 4 mm holes about 10/12 mm from the base and there is the 5 mm hole I used to hold it in position about 50 mm up from base (tested the flow by cutting the side off 5lt plastic bottle and drilling 4 x 4 mm holes and it took about 45 secs to flow 1lt out. I have been thinking(dangerous) about the tank vent at the moment it is just the hole in the filler cap and the tank vent is blocked off. We occasionally get a fuel smell in the hot weather(just a memory?) and I was thinking will there be more fumes with the return being pumped into the tank? and perhaps I should install a pipe from the tank vent down and to the rear of the car? Roger

Hello Darren You are making good progress. I seem to be getting bogged down with little things? I have fitted the baffle into the tank and fixed it with 2 x 4BA steel nuts and screws and I driiled 4off 4mm holes in it about 12mm from bottom of tank plus the one that had the holding rod in it.(I did a test on a plastic 5lt container with side cut off) and it took 45secs to let out 1lt. I am just waiting for some brazing rods and flux and I will weld and braze it.(and fingers crossed test for leaks) I have adjusted the return pipe to discharge towards the baffle. I have made a heat shield to go under the throttle bodies. Roger

Hello All I have managed to fit the baffle(temporary) with a bit of fiddling and cursing it is 3" high and 8" from end of the tank.(the rod in the photo is to place it in position) I have to work out how to get the nut off? I was thinking of drilling some holes about 10/12 mm up from the bottom as the sides and bottom should seal quite well I have located it with 2 pop rivets for now, I was thinking perhaps drill another hole above or below the pop rivet just in the tank and plug weld or braze through it? Also use steel pop rivets and braze over them. Roger

Hello All Not to much progress in the last couple of days(Christmas stuff gets in the way?) I have made a heat shield that bolts onto long studs that project out the rear of the throttle body flange mountings(could not resist cleaning the faces up on my NEW milling machine! so that's about £300 a job up to now?) I have decided to TRY and fit a baffle plate into the fuel tank about 3" high and via the top of the tank! I have made a baffle and the plan is to feed it in via the pump mounting hole with a slot(see photo) then drill tank and fix into place with screws which will be brazed over. The original feed pipe is angled towards the pump so I will try and adjust it so the discharges over the top of the baffle plate Then fit a larger plate for the pump mounting welded and or brazed in place. I think then I will use one of the tank sealants which should seal the bottom edge(I like the look of Slosh?) I can see this being very frustrating but if I can do it with out cutting a hole in the side would be good. I have been thinking about the air temperature sensor mounting? do I fit it into the air box so the ECU knows the temperature at this point or say in front of the radiator and shielded from the air flow to measure general air temperature(I suppose moderns have 2?) Roger

Hello All A bit more progress today I thought I would have a go at fitting the fuel pump into the tank. I am pleased with the result the filter sits about 5 to 10mm off the base.(about the same as the original dip pipe) The flange just want's drilling and tapping and welding or brazing into the tank. (the tube goes into tank about 25mm screws are outside so less chance of leaking Roger

Hello All My Range Rover fuel pump arrived today and I think it is going to fit quite well, I just need to make a flange about 12mm to 15mm thick and not drill the holes right through then just weld or braze it to the top of the tank It was made by AC and has non return vales built in! so should be ok! The last photo shows a 75mm disc on the tank it has got to be 80mm . I Was thinking of making something similar to these: http://www.mgaroadst...Stub_Stacks.htm Found this on fleabay so less machining! http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT What do you all think? Roger

Hello Learned EFI People A bit more progress of sorts(had to leave messing with exhaust pulled back! and no it was carrying logs into the house) So I have been looking at making an air box(can't spell Plenum? ) this is the result so far and yes I know it will need bigger holes for the throttle bodies to breath through(40mm hole saw on order) It measures 100mm tall x 65mm deep now is it worth fitting some of these inside? (its only a road car) perhaps the 25mm ones http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I am thinking 2 flexible pipes fitted to the front and running outside the engine shields to under the bumper area 38mm would fit well but possibly 45mm at a push! So would 38mm be big enough? (1 !/2" dia) and a K&N on the end unless I can fit one inside? Roger I may have to modify the front end of the airbox as it just catches the bonnet gas strut!!!!!

Hello Darren Have you mounted the Lambda sensor upright?(it looks like that in the photo) this site seem to advise against that! http://wbo2.com/lsu/position.htm I have mounted mine at an angle of about 30/40degs from vertical(no choice really) I have done some more of the wiring. I have made the injectors and TPS into one loom and all connected(and TPS still works) I have also wired the pump circuit as far as the output fuse ( safety cutout switch and manual on/off switch) I thought I had a problem with the pump circuit as I seemed to be getting no power to the fuse! but on checking a spade end had broken off and I had not read the instructions properly! You only get power to the pump for 2 seconds if the there is no crank rotation(which I do) I went with the tail type filter can(Austin Maestro 2lt type) it is a bit bigger than I thought but will probably never need changing. I was thinking when I have modified the fuel tank whether to coat the inside with one of the special paints as there is slight rusting on the bottom seams. Roger

Hello All What about using this tube or that OTT? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-pvc-coated-copper-microbore-plumbing-pipe-tube-diy-gas-oil-caravan-new-/161158858428?var=460235669398&hash=item2585d106bc:m:m82P8I6QlcEboLLuFgNz6tA or just go with http://www.screwfix.com/search?search=8mm+copper+tube Roger ps I think I used some kunifer to replace the existing fuel pipe a few years ago

Hello John How about one like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-DEMIO-1-3-PETROL-FUEL-PUMP-SENDER-SENDING-UNIT-IN-TANK-1996-2002-/262732294271?hash=item3d2c10a87f:g:nJMAAOSwA3dYNmoP looks short and fixing holes and flow and return pipes. Roger

Hello John I am sure that pump and filter would be ok but you will have to fit a pre filter as well I think? There are cheaper filters about and unless its on show I can not see the need for that type(other than you can clean it) but our tanks are going the be spotlessly clean when installed so the throw away ones will last for years. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Injection-Fuel-Filter-Austin-Maestro-XC-Hatchback-2-0-EFI-/331969591931?hash=item4d4aedfa7b:g:aikAAOSw8w1X2DcG I am going for a pump in the tank as they are supposed to be quieter? and cooled by the fuel(I think most moderns are done this way)and the pre filter is built in(its only to stop large lumps that would jam the pump) I have been working on making a loom today for the injectors(slow going if you want it to look tidy ish) I hope this does not all end in tears(and not just frustration) I have used the new milling machine a few times now(how did I manage before) I have even gone mad and fitted Digital Read Out(cheap from China and only £20 import duties) So now I will be able make c******ups the the nearest 0.0005" !!!!! Does the BMW engine lie flat on its side not at an angle like the Imp one?(and a lot more BHP I would think?) Roger

Hello All I have ordered the nos Range Rover pump(best offer accepted) they are supposed to be good for 100,000 miles so will see me out? I have been thinking of the fuel starvation issue as the pump will be mounted in the left hand side of the tank so there should only be a problem with low fuel and Fast left handers (right handers should flood the pump) I have welded an adaptor collar on the exhaust pipe today for the lambda sensor and done a few mods on the centre section(too long and different diameter to new front pipe) So it is ready to fit properly now. Still waiting for the vacuum adaptors before drilling the manifolds( from China) Is 8mm copper pipe ok for the fuel feed or should I use kunifer pipe? I have been looking at fuel filters and can not make up my mind whether to get get one with tails or threaded like these http://www.eurocarparts.com/fuel-filters http://www.eurocarparts.com/fuel-filters I have still to workout how to open the throttles! I think I will order a couple of 5mm throttle ball joints (I could modify the Triumph one but add the ball joints) Roger

Hello Clive I was thinking of a ring with treaded holes maybe on on a tube slightley above the tank(Depends on measurements) then just the tube to weld/braze in? Roger roger

Hello All Thank's for all the advice given it has given me much to think about! I have decided to go with the Range Rover pump for several reasons 1) It will be easier for me to fabricate a mounting flange and less likely to leak being on the top. 2) Looking at the pump it appears that the inlet is on the bottom so if I arrange the mounting flange correctly the inlet will be on the tank floor so if I keep at least 1/4 tank of fuel I don't think there will be fuel surge problems(well that's the theory!) 3) If I use the original feed as a return it will put the returned fuel under fuel level so I assume less airation? and better for cooling the fuel as it mixes with the tank full? 4) If I am wrong I will have to get a new tank and go down the swirl pot route(still its all fun?) Problem is now do I buy a nos at £70 or a replica at £28?(they come with a 12 month warranty?)I could buy 2 replicas but that's just silly I welcome comments on my folly! Roger Ps spent the day correcting some gardening work we had done by a SO CALLED LANDSCAPE GARDENER(I know its not correct but gypo's would have done a better job?) it is the first time in my my life I have felt conned and embarest about it! now I know why I do all my own work(even if it nearly kills me!)

Hello All I have removed the fuel tank and their is no drain plug fitted so I will have to modify the tank in some way. I am thinking of getting one of these http://www.ebay.co.u...J4AAOSw6BtVTNUz I have asked the seller for sizes and he said lenght about 23/24cm under fixing plate and plate is 9cm diameter.(which is about the depth of the tank) I can make a mounting flange to welded into the tank(maybe on a tube to sit just above) I like the idea of top mounting less risk of leakage and I think I could put the filter at the side of the tank behind the tank cover(only 6 screws to remove when needed) which should not be often as the tank is clean and rust free and there is a strainer on the inlet What do you think? Roger

Hello All The TPS I am using is this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ROVER-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-TPS-MHB101440-SLD100080-SPECIAL-OFFER-PRICE-/311644448363?fits=Car+Make%3AMG&hash=item488f74e66b:g:C2gAAOSwPcVVybV0 If I use the original feed line for the return it puts fuel into the bottom of the tank is this ok? My throttle bodies have bleed screws to balance them(which takes air from the front of the butterfly and delivers it to the engine side) I may still fit a heat shield to stop heat to the TPS? Roger

Hello All Some progress again I think? I have finally got the new exhaust manifold to fit after machining the No1 & No4 flat(No4 at a bit of an angle may have pulled down?) and putting a few dents in to miss the sump. I machined the inlet manifolds so they slope up at about a 2.5 deg angle to give more clearance on the No1 inlet.(and a small dent) I also made a strap to clamp the 2 manifolds true to each other while bolting to the Cylinder Head(using 4 of the throttle body studs) I still am unsure were to drill for the vacuum pipes(Head end or Throttle body end as shown by red dots?) on both of course. I was also thinking would it be worth fitting a heat shield under the throttle bodies? I am not sure if EFI is as much affected as Carb's(no float chambers) I think I have solved the TPS sensor problem of being to near the baulk head by cutting off the 2 ears on the the connector and fitting the retaining clip from the other side (I may try undoing the engine mountings to see if I can fit a spacer to give a bit more clearance by moving it forward) I have to weld a boss onto the new exhaust pipe for the Lambda sensor before I can fit all the system back on. I am looking at how to arrange the throttle linkage plus where to fit the fuel pressure regulator. Will the original fuel feed pipe be big enough to use as the return line to the tank? I still have not removed the fuel tank to see about fitting a pump inside it. Roger

Hello All I have one of these http://www.hamercarlift.com/HAMER-PRODUCT-RANGE The standard lift it was a treat to myself when I retired and decided I was to old to keep crawling under the cars. They were not that expensive then Roger

Hello Darren That manifold looks good(any leaky welds?) and its nice to see a bench as untidy as mine!(can't stand these photo's of workshop like operating theaters) My new exhaust manifold arrived today(ordered midday yesterday arrived 10am today on the free shipping code!) It looks ok just needed a bit of filing to get to fit over the studs(the old one had to be sprung as well) Then a bit more filing to clear inlet manifolds(front one is very tight on the No1 pipe)may machine the inlet manifold to slope up by a degree or two to give more clearance? It may need a bit of a ding were the 2 pipes cross as they touch(may cause vibration noise?) and a couple more lower down as they are tight against the sump and rear engine casting(or a heave in the right direction) Still not bad for £174 delivered it is double S make and about £75 to £150 less than the rest on offer. What is the general opinion on wrapping/lagging with the pipe wrap? and which one (not having that fancy coating done would cost about twice the price of the pipes) Still working on what to do about the TPS sensor. Still have not taken the fuel tank out yet(there is just so much to do) still spring is a long way off! Roger

Hello Moe When I say opposite rotation when fitted to that end of the throttle bodies it goes anticlockwise but needs to go clockwise on the other end(it only goes anticlockwise) I have bit the bullet and ordered a set pipes from James Paddock about £75 cheaper than else where?. I wonder which way these rotate? but they do not appear to be the D drive type or do they just work on a tight fit? cheap enough to carry a spare! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390971305580?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I could fit the TPS sensor between the two bodies but that would mean having some sort of operating shaft either over or under the bodies(it would give more scope for adjustment and problems!) Roger ps I wonder if the same as these? http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=190 pps yes but not the same as mine B****r http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311644448363?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Mine is 32mm crs x 8mm D drive and central back to trawling tinter web there must be a parts list somewhere with dimensions etc?

Hello Moe Thanks for the information. I will weld a patch on the exhaust and see if anyone would like to buy it cheap? I have been looking all the ones on offer and the James Paddock is the cheapest. http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?categoryID=10&vehicleId=2 Plus If I have to modify it may as well start with the cheapest? it looks the same as the Moss one http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/manifold-exhaust-tt1400.html I see you have the TPS sensor next to the bulkhead? when I tried fitting the throttle bodies it is very close to the bulkhead and the plug fouls the bulkhead! so may have to buy one that will fit on the front body but needs to be opposite rotation. Roger