rogerguzzi

Hello All A lot more questions for you all as you are familiar with EFI(me still on the STEEP learning curve) I have got the car running on the ignition side of the Microsquirt and calibrated the water and air temperature sensors. So I have started to fit the injection side and the problems have started! The first problem is the Weber type inlet manifolds will not fit the No1 & No4 hit the No1 & No4 exhaust pipe on my 4 -2 - 1 I thought I could get away with a smallish dent? but no, I have cut into it but now realise it will cut the flow by 25% on my exhaust the No1&4 pipes pass outside the No2&3 pipes. The problem is the angle of the inlets which is about 15degs on the No2 & 3 and 25degs on the No1 & 4 the oher way around and they would clear (just) I have looked at other exhaust for sale on various sites and they all seem to be the other way around ie 1& 4 inside and 2 & 3 outside which I think would fit? something like this? http://www.maniflow....a955f23475c.jpg What has everyone else got fitted? The next problem is the vacuum side of things? I need one for the MAP sensor and one for the fuel pressure regulator! so can they share the same line? and will one tapping on the manifold do of is it better to have all 4 manifold tapped? Then there is the idle air? now on the Jenvey site they list adaptors to fit were the air bleed are(which my throttle bodies have although they are not Jenvey's) and they use this setup. http://www.jenvey.co...-4-ports-avk2t2 So any advice would be appreciated Hello Nick That link is very interesting and made me have another look at the problem and after some more bashing I have decided its a non starter as the No4 runner hits the exhaust behind the flange of the throttle body end(the No4 exhaust is more proud than No1 So it is which exhaust manifold to get? I thought 4 tappings for vacuum would be best. The throttle bodies do have adjustable stop screws but they operate 2 throttle plates(common shaft)so you could only balance in pairs but slight adjustments can be made with the bleed screws. In the photo below which position do you think would be best for the vacuum take off's(cylinder head end or throttle body end) I thought some of these(I could not make them for that price?) http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT I would need 6mm version if I was to use the bleed screw tapping for air bypass

Hello Darren I have decided to leave the sensor were it is and adjusted the ignition map by +2 degs(I can not see why this will not work?) I have spent sometime calibrating the water and air temperature sensors(small electric kettle balanced on the engine and jug of iced water and a mug for the 120 deg) It seems pretty close now? I ran the engine up and mearured with an infra red thermometer. So now I am going to remove the carb'e etc(The scarry bit!) but at least I know the ignition works and sensors. So it will only be half into the unknown(well that's the theory?) Roger ps carbs etc off had to machine clearance for the lower stud in the manifolds but now both are hitting the exhaust No 1 and No 4 pipe so I will try a bit of gentle reshaping of the exhaust(I do not think a smallish dent will effect the gas follow much?) Standard exhaust would be ok but 4 branch 1 and 4 pipes stick out a bit more!!!!!!

Hello all I saw recently that breaking wing in lifts is wrong on so many levels! Roger

Hello Darren Its like I said when one door opens at least one shuts in your face! Had a funny old day today first we had a new car delivered(Skoda Yeti) so that was exciting Then I thought back to the serious stuff Spitty's ignition! so I started to follow the instructions in the link you posted all was going quite well until the timing light decided it did not want to work anymore(no amount of shaking or tapping or re soldering all the joints would get it working!!!!! I had checked the Triumph marks with a DTI down the No 4 plug hole and it is within 1/2 deg(so good enough) I did manage to get one run at checking the error when running on fixed advance and it was showing 8 degs when it was set at 10 degs in software but you can not run a toothed wheel with an offset other than zero(then the light packed up) So now I am thinking can I just adjust all the maps or may look at moving the sensor? but 2 degs is not a lot? Then while I was working in the garage I heard the bin men arrive then there was this crashing noise! first thought was have they hit the new Truck but no just knocked the end of the guttering off and snapped a fence post then hit the bin as they swung around!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So I rushed out and I do not think he knew he had hit the garage and post? when challenged he said well I have been coming here for about a year and this is the first damage caused!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(it Beggers belief) Roger

Hello Darren Thank's for that link I had looked at all these settings but could understand them(The help files in TunerStudio do not seem very helpful?) I will have a go at that tomorrow after checking the pulley and pointer for accuracy. I going to have a go at getting readings for the CLT and Mat sensors with hot and cold water and meter tonight so I can input these before I disable the car. Them I am into completely unknown territory? (Still its a long winter!) I have been thinking how to open the throttles(the Jenvey stuff looks expensive) I may investigate the old way Webers did it with an overhead shaft or the Spitfire way on twin carb's. Roger

Hello Darren Numpty number one here. I thought I had checked and double(many more) checked all the wiring But I thought back to basics and rechecked the VR sensor inputs(you are ahead of me now?) I had the cam VR sensor connector in the crank VR sensor postion on the board!!!!!! So I have been trying to get it to fire on a signal that expects half speed and only 4 pulses(or something like that) So taken it all out and corrected the wiring just in the process of refitting The reason for not using the Edis4 unit was A its old and B less connections plus I have read it is easier to diagnose a fault without it(Edis4 works or not) If It works now??? I will stick with the Ford type coil pack and ignition module(I would have to change the leads as well) Success (sort of? you know when one door opens two more slam in your face) Well after corrected my wiring C**** up Spitty started up ok so I was feeling pleased with myself until I turned it off and it would not stop! Now I have read about this being cause by a back feed from the alternator via the ignition light(not a problem with the Megajolt system) So with the Triumph wiring diagram to sort the problem out! Ha Ha I thought how about using the radio feed cable? (No radio) so found the connector and ran a wire from it to power the relays(feeling smug at this stage) Switched it all on and TunerStudio went on line but it would not start! strange I thought but after a bit of testing find that the power to the radio is cut while cranking the engine(B****r I thought) So its back to a diode in the alternator exciter cable.(now done with care you can fit a diode in the plug so it is under the cap) I used a 1N5406 a bit over the top but mechanically stronger. Still its progress! the ignition map needs a bit of work(I have not got a clue how it knows were TDC is I just set on toothed wheel and skip 3 teeth and falling edge) I have done a bit more playing today and altered the ignition map calibrated the battery voltage and connected up the CLT sensor(that needs a bit more calibrating) but at least it works. Now when I first fitted the Megajolt system I was about 1 to 2 degs out with the sensor position but that did not matter as you can tell the software the difference, Now when I check the timing with a light it appears to be out by that amount but I can not see how to tell the software that? The software shows 12 degs and the pulley shows 10.5 degs(I must check the pulley first)I am sure I did that when fitting Megajolt but lost in the mists of time(and wine!) So I think I am ready for the next step and remove the carb's and fit all the injection stuff(now that should really tax the old grey matter) Roger

Hello Darren I have fitted the Microsquirt but it is giving me some grief! As I said I decided not to use Edis4 and use a coil driver instead this were my problem is as I am not getting a spark(it may be the software settings?)which to me is like wading through treacle! So after checking the wiring lots of times(I was thinking I had got a duff Microsquirt) I decided to do a temporary lash up using Edis4 and she fired up straight away! looking at the software readout I could see the advance changing but to make sure I connected the timing light and then disconnected the Microsquirt and it started and ran in the limp mode(10 deg advance) So back to the drawing board?(it must be a software problem?) unless I have a faulty coil driver? but it is new and a good make? Frustrated Roger

Hello Darren They look nice(shame to spoil them with your welding? Joke) I have done some work on Spitty;s Efi today and with a bit of luck I may get her running on ignition part tomorrow! I seen to have more fuses now than the national grid (note to self make a note of what they are?) Still what;s the worse that can happen? fry the ECU or even worse set fire to the car and burn the garage down?(that would be sad before I have used the new milling machine!) Roger

Hello Allen Try this man I had an upgraded one made for Spitty this year about £120 (the TR lot use him for drive shafts) Roger Proptech Ltd Tel: 01299 251247

Hello Darren I measured the current used by the injectors today and it was 0.9amps so the 0.5mm cable would be good enough but I opted to use the 1mm that came with the Microsquirt(plenty of 0.5mm in the kit must have been the delux kit) because I thought it has a bit more mechanical strenght(plenty of that to) I am making up all the plugs on long leads then when? I have it all fitted I can make it into some sort of loom and cut to lenght at the terminal board. I have sent for some of this to make the loom in 4mm,6mm and 8mm x 5m about £10 the lot! so hoping it will make it look neatish? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150899408011?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=450115825397&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Roger

Hello Darren I think the injectors draw no more than 1amp which means the 0.5mm cable will be adequate so the thinking is individual cables to each injector and terminated on the board(in the dry) Roger

Hello Darren I did not have the option of longer loom as I bought it cheapish off Ebay. I have wired up the TPS that I fitted to the throttle body and calibrated it on the bench. I think I will do the water and air temperature sensors the same way? I am trying to rationalise some of the under bonnet wiring(well tidy it up a bit) I was thinking about the injector wiring and whether to run 2 cables to each one and terminate them on the board or or make joints under the bonnet(8 cables would be a bit bulky?) but then they only have to be thin cables 5amp max if that? It is certainly getting the old brain going! Roger

Hello All I have started the conversion! I have removed the Megajolt and the Edis4 and just left the coil pack,crank sensor and water temp sensor I have decided to mount the Microsquirt and MAP on a board on the left hand foot well were the radio speaker was! The idea is to keep most of the connections in the dry? Plus I can make up individual cables and terminate them on the board(well that's the theory) This is the board made up just want to do some testing on it before I start grovelling in the car! I will get it running on ignition first so that when I have fitted the EFI I will at least know the ignition works? Roger

Hello Has your exhaust got the round silencer that sits between the chassis rails? Because if it has there is very little clearance and its a bit of a B****r to get it to sit in the middle when the engine a gearbox move around(but worth it for the reduced noise but still fruity)but all the mounting straps need to be good not just look ok. Just a thought you also NEED the gearbox mounting bracket or you do not stand a chance of keeping in central! And it does make a noise if it touches(I know!) Roger

Hello Darren The tachometer sounds like the one I fitted to the Brother in Laws TR6 that had to be set up with dip switches any thing from 2 cylinders to 12 cylinders and adjusted at 1000 rpm mark and also at max revs mark having set the dip switches to max rpm as marked on dial face(sounds complicated but its not when you have unit in front of you) Not done much on my EFI for a while. Just been out and bought a milling machine today(boys and toys?) Now I have to think of something to make? Roger

Hello Pete I agree I would not post the code either I just wish the B*****r worked on the Friday Still I suppose £28 is nothing to what we waste? (invest?) On our old (classic)cars? Roger

Hello Pete I hate to disillusion you but it is the same code for the TR Register and probably all car clubs? Roger ps I still think they could give a discount on Friday and it does not say anything about being a Trade show just 11th to 13th and Adults the same as Seniors so I don't know why they list it separate? Unless they want to gauge the age of people(Big Brother?) pps I wonder if I would get away with short trousers? (5-15 year class) or do you thing the beard would give it away?

Hello All Why is it that the club discount only works on Saturday or Sunday? I want to go on Friday as I always do when it is not so crowded( I suppose they think us retired people are Rich?) Annoyed Roger

Hello Darren Now I am confused(not difficult) In the Microsquirt manual page 32 section 3.6.5 Tacho output it says the output typically provides a 0-12v pulsed signal? Now I thought that is what Megajolt supplies not 5v as you seem to think? Roger

Hello Darren Oh B****r that is what mine is and has been perfect on Megajolt for 5 years! Is it a different signal or was yours just fussy? I may still go with Marco's kit as it was easy to fit and accurate plus just a touch cheaper(not that that matters compared to what I have spent already?) I went with LD lambda sensor controller with the meter £108 delivered(I thought this may be useful in the early programing/messing/panicing/despair? Still as my old Mother used to say there are no pockets in shrouds and the kids have had loads already! Roger

Hello Darren Was it a RVI or RVC type tachometer? How much do Speedy cables charge to convert one? The kit I fitted to the Brother in laws was 90ish euros and was easy to fit and very accurate I checked it against the Megajolt software Roger

Hello Derek I modified my Spitfire earlier this year to solid spacers. I did not buy a kit from Moss for 2 reasons I did not fancy plastic spacers(I am sure they are perfectly ok) and I have a lathe and some Phosphor bronze so I made my own by just assembling without springs and measuring the gap(so no shims needed) It seems to have made it a bit quieter but I did replace the rocker shaft at the same time! I also did it because it is reckoned to keep the oil in better in the rocker arms. I have done about 7000+ miles with no problems. Roger

Hello Darren I now have the inlet manifolds and a few more bits(still undecided about the pump still fancy it in the tank) I have not started the conversion yet as I had to replace the n/s u/j (read the Saga!) Spitty is all back together now and back on the ground(well the ramp is lowered) I have just re read your last post about the Tachometer! did it work on Mega jolt? as my spitfire one is perfect. I converted my brother in laws TR6 one earlier this year using this kit and it worked perfectly (there is a report on the TR Register forum if you can acess it?) https://urevco.com/ Roger ps I think I will have the inlet manifold power coated black before final fitting.

Hello All I thought I would measure a new and old U/J and post dimensions Freelander Type Pin dia 0.596" Roller dia 0.093" Roller length 0.402" 23 off Original Type Pin dia 0.575" Roller dia 0.078" Roller length 0.375" 26 off Which is about plus 4% 18.5% 7% Plus there is these little plastic? spacers/thrust pads which fit into the end of the pin? Roger

Hello Esteemed people and all others My new old stock GKN u/j,s should be here tomorrow and I was thinking about what grease to use? As they are old stock I was thinking of washing them out and repacking them but which type of grease? Moly CV joint type or ordinary? Roger ps we have been to see these beauties today at SVR