daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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Thanks folks
22 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:I would fit the highest temperature one I could find.
Interested in why, as no info given.
Cheers, Dave
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Hi. Have been taught on a welding course to use 12 Litres a minute, though a Prof restorer I talked to recently, only used about 6.
What have others found?.
Cheers, Dave
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Yes. Seems to be taking ages, and generally running cooler, I think, though may have coincided with me finally getting the system to pressurise, as now is holding almost a litre more coolent (though could have a dodgy stat for a while as well, I assume).
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Hi. looked online but no clues with stat in situ.
Wondered if to remove filler cap, start car (when cold) and if coolent movement in top of rad, then suggests stat is stuck open?.
Any other tips?.
Cheers, Dave
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I went for the Landy one (about £13 nowadays, inc delivery), after 2 failures of seal kits in my original girling (could have been a fault in the MC, smoooth, though worn bore?)
been on about 5 years, with no prob's so far.
Also gave me a much better working clutch, without the pedal, literally to the metal, which I understand is a positive side effect, due to being a slightly different size. The neg side effect is it requires more foot pressure, though I find it ok, especially as can change gear fine with about a third pedal travel (maybe this also helps with reducing thrust wear?)
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Have managed one end by drifting off with a punch in the whatsit pin holes.
Other no joy, though if It can strip it all from one end , then should be to get, tother end off more easily.
If not then maybe not the end of the world, as can still clean it out ok, as it seems a good shaft and rockers (bought very cheap off Ebay, as a small risk).
Intend to replace my fairly recent £25 (read prob, crap) new shaft and existing "large rattle fit" original rockers.
May as well, will stop me thinking (paranoia?), is that shaft wearing quickly and limiting oil supply to rockers . Don't want to have to take rocker off, just to check this.
Dave
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Hi. Have read before that they can be difficult, though the only I did before, they came off no prob, just lucky I guess.
Have driven the whatsit pins out but no joy. Doesn't appear rusty, so I guess, just a tight fit.
Cheers, Dave
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Thanks for that. Nice to to know it was the clip rather than me and I'm not going too daft yet?.
Dave
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On 06/04/2021 at 18:39, Colin Lindsay said:
give it a good dousing with Servisol Super 10 or the like
I use penetrating fluid, which may help dissolve the oxidation?. Is that stuff any different?.
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Hi Steve and welcome if your a new member.
is it, a recent purchase that is running like this, or something that has developed since your ownership?.
Dave
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
or if the orig belt is of no use cut it
Or if your a hoarder like me, save it, just in case☺️
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Hi. Bought one of these for the bottom hose to rad joint to try out as had been recommended on here I think and a Jubilee clip had failed.
Was impressed when it arrived as only just over £2 inc postage and seems well made.
However
When I ordered it of Ebay, the instructions were to measure the hose outer diameter, fitted to the stub.
It was 41mm using a Vernier gauge, which corresponded to a clip size of 40-43 W2 on their site. This was the size stamped on the clip I received.
The internal Dia of the clip was about 43/44mm, so went over the hose ok, but only just started to clamp at it's max closure (It's not like a jubilee which sort of go on and on, though not recommended to over tighten, I believe ) and was leaking coolant (I fitted it quickly with the hose in situ).
Removed clip and wound it back in to full adjustment. Measured it and an it had internal dia of only, about 37/38 mm, so maybe not surprised it wouldn't clamp?.
The hoses were the basics from Canley about 7 years ago and not cracking yet, though were quite thin rubber and hardish maybe to other hoses I have come across, maybe this not helping?
Just wondered how any others had found them?.
Cheers, Dave
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9 hours ago, andybeau said:
Well the fronts have arrived, Monroe made in Poland. Quality looks good,
Hi Andy. Who is the supplier?.
Dave
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I rubbed down the hand painted (badly) gloss on my rad 8 years ago. This exposed a small hole in the top section. Patched with Aradite and lasted a year or so. Repaired with JB weld and still holding up.
If you do this then rough up the brass, adhesive contact area first.
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27 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Grand kids gave them to me so I had to use them.
Not a quiet little Santa wish for anything yellow in the kids ears then, or do they know you too well?.
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On 30/03/2021 at 20:18, Pete Lewis said:
make sure your mixture is not on the rich side of OK lean it a bit may help
Have leaned off half a flat on each carb
On 31/03/2021 at 08:34, Pete Lewis said:i would start by leaning it to best running and lean to drop 50 rpm so youre on the lean end of best
Funnily enough after leaning, (did this before using car) the idle had increased a bit, should this be so, or maybe not connected?
So fan moving a bit faster.
Was driving yesterday, not as hot weather and not as much slow traffic, though seemed fine. Fired up straightaway after supermarket sesh.
See how it goes.
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On 01/04/2021 at 21:01, dougbgt6 said:
Silicone are good, you can get red ones
No yellow (or chrome coloured) Doug 😉
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Well yes Pete. Though, thought a quick? wrap around in summer and take the bits off in winter and check any pipe corrosion (steel on mine).
Your idea may well be more simple, though just about the more rubber to metal joints (is there?), pos failers of these, and the lasting qualities of rubber hose comparted to steel, even the good stuff (was thinking of using any old crap for this insulation purpose.
Don't really know
Cheers, Dave
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7 hours ago, johny said:
Yes youve got to ensure that there would still be enough flow to the carbs for sustained full load (long uphill stretch on a motorway?)
Also this one. Have at times had some miss firing, that felt like fuel starvation on long motorway inclines.
I guess to bowl fuel level lowers at bit at that angle, or is it "something completely different"?.
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9 hours ago, clive said:
After much faffing and trying different ideas, the think that solved it was insulating the fuel pipes in the engine bay,
Interested in this one, as I was thinking of slitting fuel hose down the length and wrapping the metal pipe?. What did he use?.
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4 hours ago, Badwolf said:
No, but I did read on some yank site about people who make their own derusting concoction out of citric acid and wallpaper paste.
Wow. I love the Yanks for their thinking out the box, simple, cheap, effective ways of doing stuff.
After great results with vinegar and lemon juice, dipping the parts for a while, I was wondering how to make a Gel solution to paint on, never thought of that.
Brill.
PS. I found it worth covering any gel, with cling film to stop it drying out and leaving a while
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Hi. put this in fuel section, though not sure if something else causing it.
In the past years during hot weather have had the old chestnut of car switched off and 10 min's later bit more difficult to start and stumbly/stalling when driving at low speed/stopping at junctions, lasts for a minute or so. (very, very hot weather, then stumbly etc, continuously while slow moving/idling etc.
Recently with warmer weather, has been more more prone to this, and today (pretty warm), has been worse than ever, using handbrake to stop it, then keeping up the revs to stop it stalling at junctions. Fine when on the move.
Mixture/timing has not been altered and seems normal with checks.
Only engine work done since last summer was fitting a used exhaust manifold (cheap and had better gasket surfaces than mine). I seem to remember that new one was noticeably lighter for some reason?, if so could be chucking out more heat at carb bowls?. Can refit old one, if need be.
Also fixed the cooling system not pressuring (as had never done so), so now car running cooler (from the gauge) in traffic, which should improve under bonnet temp and help this this, I assume?.
Can try a heat shield to help?, though wondered if anything else I should look at?.
Cheers, Dave
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Cheers
Only got a short window for this fix.
Assume do one side at a time?
Use a scissor jack under sump for more accurate lining up of mounting to turret fastenings?
I guess it's only vertical movement to line up engine to fastenings doing this?
Fasten mount to bracket, then bracket to block and last, mount to turret? If that makes sense?
Thanks, Dave
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18 hours ago, Bfg said:
if they have been stored right and not left outside or on a shelf they will be ok.
What is the shelf scenario please?
MG vs Triumph rilvary...
in General
Posted · Edited by daverclasper
Any tips on that Colin?, I've had a few bargains over the years, mainly something, just listed, at "Buy it now" or the occasional bidding one that has none of the usual interest.