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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. On 07/06/2021 at 19:05, Pete Lewis said:

    my only use of J type   is on the mk2 2000 and thats not a threaded adaptor but a plain bush and cable  held in with fork and setscrew

    My setscrew on J Type, was a bit loose, I found out today. I tightened it up (a bit tighter than previously), though can the fork be overtightened and squash the seal or other things too much?.

    Dave (AKA, worrier, too much) 

  2. On 25/05/2021 at 15:48, daverclasper said:

    Thanks.  Well I guess if they became very loose, there would be noise and some shaking

    If, some are, sort of, not that tight, then hopefully ok to keep on driving it and keep an eye, or more like ear on it, do you think?.

    I'm wondering it will stress any parts.

    No time at the mo, to remove GB 

    I had a large Iveco van that had lost one bolt from front of bell housing to engine plate. All the rest were tight. Used to vibrate a lot over 50 mph. New bolt cured it.

    Hi. Any advice on this much appreciated?

    Thanks, Dave

  3. Thanks. I have been using that hose attachment. Maybe my mains pressure is on the low side, as it doesn't remove the visible salt that has dried (shows as white,against dark coloured car) on the outer body, so assume it's not effective on underside.

    Maybe no answer to this one?

    I try not to use in salt, though get caught out sometimes, as only car.

    Cheers, Dave

  4. Hi.  Some benefits from doing underside of car after winter I assume.

    Any negatives?, or areas of car to avoid (thinking of any bearings, spray could get into, also chassis box sections, where water may sit?, in fact maybe the whole of the underneath in that case?).

    Cheers, Dave

     

  5. 6 hours ago, Peaks said:

    If all the valves do come from the same factory, as I suspect, then we in the Triumph world are lucky as the valves from our suppliers are around £22. A valve from other marque specialists that look exactly the same are anything up to £52. 

    I did replace mine when I bought the car 8 years ago, It was off e Bay and sold by an engineering company Ooop North and looked the same as the others on sale, so assumed he supplied other retailers?.

    The seller recommended to leave the valve open when not in use. I have done this and also opened the valve every time I drive the car to give the valve and the matrix a run through.

    Still ok, though others have had problems with them only lasting a year or so?.

    Dave  

  6. Cheers Guys for your help.   Well, since the clean off and a 20 run yesterday, no drips showing on the floor, though no time to jack up and inspect properly.

    So, doesn't seem anything drastic happening?, maybe just a bit of good old fashioned Triumph chassis rust prevention in the longer term.  

  7. Thanks.  Earth strap was ok

    I think it was maybe the other mount causing the resistance. I can't remember, maybe I slackened it off a bit, though not enough?. As the jack was getting resistance, I remember thinking, this maybe not good, but carried on, as felt under pressure to have the car running asap.

  8. Thanks. Been under car and cleaned a lot of old gunge (oil filter changes, previous rocker cover leaks,ect).

    Sump and flang to block pretty clean now.

    No obvious?, distortion of flange with sump in situ.

    No sheared bolts (inc the two rear)

    No obvious?, crack/distortion of sump

    All the sump bolts took a bit of light hand torque (apart from one I couldn't get to).

    Now to see if I can find any talc.

    I did notice the rocker cover had collected a bit of oil at the rear, that also could have run down rear of engine.

    Will give car a run tom, as guess if leaking from top area, will show up as the oil sloshes in the sump.

  9. Thanks. I assume it's ok to use the car for the time bieng?, and keep an eye on the leak getting worse.

    Moral to this. Don't start some jobs, if your rushing and getting stressed. I had to pick my grandaughter up in the car, later in the day.

  10. Hi. A bit back I replaced the engine mounts. Did one side at a time, though in hindsight, it would have maybe made sense to loosen both sides?.

    Anyway, after fitting the first one, I was jacking up the engine with a scissor jack under the sump to do the second, with a flat piece of wood to spread load. I had to go a bit higher on this side to get the mount to line up and the jack felt more strained.

    There was a cracking noise and the engine dropped a bit. I assumed the wood had split, but no. Thought, "S>>>, what was that.

    Jacked up again and fitted the mount.

    Anyway, now a bit of an oil leak, showing on the floor, mainly towards the rear of engine.

    Not had chance to jack up and investigate, though wondering what area it be coming from?.

    Cheers, Dave     

  11. Thanks.  Well I guess if they became very loose, there would be noise and some shaking

    If, some are, sort of, not that tight, then hopefully ok to keep on driving it and keep an eye, or more like ear on it, do you think?.

    I'm wondering it will stress any parts 

    I had a large Iveco van that had lost one bolt from front of bell housing to engine plate. All the rest were tight. Used to vibrate a lot over 50 mph. New bolt cured it.

     

  12. Mines been ok (ish) for years, only stumbling at around 30 degrees in very slow London traffic, say.

    It's got worse this year. The only thing I've done, is get the overflow bottle working properly, which had allowed about 3/4 litre more coolant and car now runs a bit cooler around town, according to the gauge (which I thought, if anything would have improved this issue?).

    I think I will mess about with the mixture/timing in small increments, separately (though like you say, could be various things?).

    Its livable at the moment, though don't want it to get worse in the hotter (hopefully) summer.

    Car feels like it's running well in general conditions as far as the tuning goes ,aside from slow moving/idling, restarting a bit worse when hot.

    Thanks Guys

     

     

     

     

  13. Thanks.  If pump is absorbing heat from the block?, then would it be possible/useful to fit an alluminium (good for heat sink) spacer/shim between them and if so, what max thickness to still alloy the pump to function properly?.

  14. Hi. If this is happening for whatever reasons (no info needed on that at the moment).

    Is it the fuel expanding in volume/pressure, therefore throwing too much out of the jets making it too rich?.

    Or. Causing air in the fuel, making it too weak?.

    Have heard both ideas?.

    Any info please?.

    Cheers, Dave  

  15. I had this happening and it was all the sealing issues mentioned above. The cap was not sealing on lower rad neck flange as the cap was too short. Made up a seal and spacer washer.  Top of filler neck was not flat, so a gentle flat with wet and dry on a block. Hose was not air tight at filler neck.

    After sorting, the system took about an extra 750ml of coolent and car runs a bit cooler around town. Also no air in system, which is better for corrosion I guess.

    So no massive deal, but didn't cost anything either.

    Dave

     

     

     

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