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daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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With the acid types, is the idea to remove the rust/rust pits, and neutralize to hold the rust coming back, or just make it temporally look better?.
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So, worth trying a thicker than 20/50 (if I have some about), or will any increase in acceleration power be negligible anyway, I assume?.
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Thanks, Didn't know that you can go over the usual richer dashpot enhanced mixture for better acceleration . Might try a thicker oil, if Iv'e got one knocking about?. See if I notice a differance.
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I understand that, though thought it needed air as well for any fuel/ air, basic power ratio?.
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9 hours ago, Badwolf said:
From the Bilthamber rust gel thread here..
https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/7879-bilt-hamber-rust-gel/?tab=comments#comment-110046
Ahh, remember now. That's where I got this bit of info, so your tip and my (brief) trial.
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On 04/08/2021 at 21:29, JohnD said:
So, if you want maximum performance, use a thicker oil. For economy, use thinner.
A layman's question. Does it not need more air as well, to produce a bigger bang? (genuinely interested).
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Distributor Doctor has many parts I think (not sure for Delco). Also does rebuilds, as do others
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Thanks Non Member. The answer I was hoping for.
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Hi. Noticing this on both sides when turning the steering full travel, with the wheels (I've just remembered that maybe you shouldn't do this?) and the front of car raised.
Couldn't feel any air escaping around the gaiters, though I guess it must be. Never noticed this before?.
I am guilty of putting four extra squirts of grease this time, spaced out along the rack travel.
The gaiters seem ok condition, wise though would need to clean them to be sure their not perished.
Is this an issue, do you think, or are they not meant to be air tight as such at the ends, to allow air to escape, anyway?.
I have wondered if this job can be done too often, as the grease won't escape anyway?.
Cheers, Dave
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Apologies if a bit abrupt. Was having a bad night with one thing and another
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That's about it then
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8 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
just let it idle a few seconds and alls well its 50 years too late to get paranoid about a few knocks
I guess Pete. Why have we come paranoid about a bit of general wear and tear. Especially as most our cars don't do lot's of regular use starts, and only get started from cold every now and again.
Saying that. I usually crank over from cold for 8 secs or more and gives a fairy quite start. Today my battery a bit flat and gave it some early choke. I tried to ignore those harmless rumblings.
Dave
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
what did you do with the poor fishy
Most heaters for sale, imply the poor old souls (soles) have been long gone 🙂
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Ha ha🙂. Fair enough. Though I'll, just stick to asking to questions in the future, to get my membership value.
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Cheers Pete, Looked out for you at Malvern. Did you go?
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Just to add as I don't appear to have an "edit" function at the mo. Maybe worth just mixing a very small amount as a trial for ratio's, sorry to be "Nanny State", though I can have a bad habit of often mixing up too much stuff myself🤗
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Hi. I heard that folk in the States use this method, so thought I'd give it a go and share my experience and try and encourage more "tips and tricks stuff?.
I tried this on an area of wheel arch lip than the paint had flaked off on, exposing fairly engrained surface rust.
Wallpaper paste and Citric acid powder are the ingredients. When the paste has thickened, add the Citric acid powder. I used about a third powder to paste, though I assume more powder would make it more effective.
Applied roughly a 2mm coat and covered with cling film (though doesn't seem to dry out quickly like the bought acid gel does).
Did this at tea time at the Malvern Show and removed it the next morning. Apart from some very tiny pin prick pits (another coat, or stronger solution may have helped this) It was totally clean of rust.
So, from this trial it seems better than the bought ones and much cheaper.
Warmer weather helps with any acid solution.
Also can be used with water instead of wallpaper paste for parts that can be dipped (works well apparently). A fish tank heater helps with the heat.
Dave
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Hi. I have done this job before, though approx how much of the piston can I push out, without it popping out please?.
Cheers, Dave
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6 hours ago, Dave1360 said:
On the other hand, my first Vitesse was plumbed in without the heater when I got it and that didn't run any warmer than when i reconnected the matrix.
Same here when I bypassed it for a while
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18 hours ago, Wagger said:
Reply to Dave first. The britax roof handle is plastic and broken. Has two 'Pips' on a 3/4 inch (approx) PCD circle. It looked like a minature window winder. I will make my own if 'The Trim Company' at Lewes in Sussex do not have one. I will be going there soon to look for one to fit my car. Some were mazac and T' shaped. They do mail order.
Thanks for that Wagger. I reckon those are pretty rare nowadays, hardly ever see them for sale. I had that one I think?, in my first car a Herald 12/50, that was scrapped after it's first MOT in my ownership, due to terminal rot. I think the sunroof was pretty good though.
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8 hours ago, clive said:
Do I get a prize?
No, only special thanks😃
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Thanks for all the info.
It is the type on Clives Aldi link that I,m after. Haven't seen one in Aldi for ages, so just ordered the online one.
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Hi Wagger and good luck with the car.
Any chance of a photo of the sunroof catch handle please, if it's the original sunroof for that year Vitesse, if not too much trouble.
I'm looking out for Britax for my own Vit from that year, and would like it to be period correct if pos.
Thanks, Dave
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Hi. Looking to buy one for general and maybe car use for around £30, as doesn't need to be pro quality.
I understand the Attachments are not universal?.
Any suggestions/recommendations very welcome.
Thanks, Dave
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Engine Noise. Piston Slap? Herald 13/60 1968
in Engine
Posted
My Vitesse was like this. Converted back to original PCV arrangement. Has been easier to set up carbs mixture (I think). Cleaner air filters as well.
One thing I was wondering about, before, a bit of oil smoke used to come out of rocker cover if filler cap removed, at idle (was this excessive blow bye?).
With the PCV fitted, it now has a fair bit of suction at filler hole, therefore no smoke.
Cheers, Dave