daverclasper

Hi. I know I can paint it "any dam colour I want to", (as long as it's black) or maybe even silver,? though I'm a bit old fashioned

Not a problem at all, though interested. A good while back my car wouldn't start. I checked fuel area first. It was getting fuel to carbs, though even with a lot of cranking, all the plugs were dry and I assumed they would be wet?. I assumed an issue with the carbs, not supplying fuel into manifold, though seemed unlikely that both carbs not behaving at the same time. As it turned out it was a points issue. So, really I should have just left the thread title as a question, though now I may as well leave my rambling on here now. Cheers, and Happy Spring

I've often wondered, if they could go more than that. There won't be that many particles in such low mileage, I assume?

Hi Iain. I'm assuming the can is complete, as it's off a seller Iv'e used before who knows his Triumphs?. Johnny, I always crank without choke, until I get pressure anyway. Even with the spin on I would get rattle, if I didn't.

Thanks. That thing in the way sounds like the oil pressure relief valve?. If so you can easily remove and fit the filter at about 7.30? and refit valve, though means filter is close ish to chassis and you have to remove valve again and loosen adapter to move it up to access filter to change it. I've just bought a used original filter housing of EBay and Local Moss appear to have the filter, inc the outer seal for under £4. For me it just seems an more straightforward route? .

That's the same part no's as the one I bought from Moss. Had some problems with the fit, maybe there were machining differences on the Mocals over time? Let me know how the kit works out for you please Iain

Thanks. Also I assume about two turns of the main bolt after the outer lip of the adapter has made contact with the seal would be enough?, even though the lip is still very visible

Thanks Johny. I can try that, just a bit concerned, that if does move, I won't be able to see that

Thanks. Well, the flat inner seal in the kit is not secure at all when fitted (the shallow groove is very shallow, looks about 1mm deep!). Would it be ok to secure with a few tiny dabs of super glue, as I assume when squeezed to the block it won't move anyway? Ta

Picked up repair kit today from Moss. It's for the Mocal one that they sell and that appears the same as mine. Not sure where to position/how far down, the threaded wing plate thingy on the main bolt goes. It secures the sealing plate and I assume buts up to block. I assume, as it's under tension and won't move as the bolt screws into it? Thanks

Thanks Wayne. After even further investigation, mine is the spring loaded face plate one after all (it had been forced in off centre, so wasn't moving). It's made by Mocal, who still appear to be doing them, so getting somewhere hopefully. Thanks for your input folks

Without removing the pedastals, and then starting engine, it would be usual to see if the rockers are getting oil. Though in my experience, a worn shaft with the small oil scrolls in the rocker areas worn away, would hinder supply, as would any blocked oil holes in the shaft/rockers

Thanks. Mine, on closer inspection, is not the spring loaded central seal face, though though the groove width looks same ish as the Rimmers ones. Doesn't seem straight forward. I guess, as long as an o ring was compressing and withstanding oil pressure, it could be Ok?. Maybe fix in place for fitting with a couple of tiny Dab of super glue?. Also any idea what the smaller copper washer is for on some kits?, can't see it on mine. Wagger gave a part no club for the club shop kit, when in shop section and tried a search, it says access denied?. Plowed through the listings and second to last was the adapter, though couldn't see repair kit? Ta

Thanks Johny. Never managed to put photos on the forum. No one knew why, when I asked for advice, though it appeared everyone is using I phones, whereas mines Android?. Mine appears to be the one in the second photo below the main one, that Pete put above, from Rimmers and I assume the inner seal area is the shallow,recessed flat groove, that measures about 5mm across on mine. That would maybe correspond to the washer type in some of the kits, including the Rimmers one (bottom photo), Also that appears as supplied in the second photo (though different in the first main one?) My bolt is also the one with the cut out section, down the shank (whatever that does?). Click on pt no to enlarge photos. Hope this helps.

Thanks folks. Well I took the adapter unit off and I it didn't appear to have the inner rubber seal (it appears to be a flat washer type, or an o ring, depending on who supplies the kits, will either be ok do you know?, as my local Moss has the the o ring types, which includes the large thinner outer seal, where my old one is squarer profile. Also I assume when fitting, the washer type would stay in place better in the corresponding shallow groove in the adapter body) Anywhere the missing seal might be hiding?, I can't see where myself?. Also could this missing seal have harmed maybe?, not there's much I can do about it anyway! Thanks Dave

Cheers Johny

Cheers Pete. I did look at rimmers as they seem good for bits and bobs, though on my phone wasen't getting anywhere. I guess the different smaller seals and 2 types of securing bolt are for different versions?. Will order it and when it arrives, take mine off to see what's, what Thanks

Hi. Car has developed an oil leak. Looks like it may be from the outer/main seal and this is visible and crumbly. Looking at pictures online, this looks like it may be a large, thinnish o ring?. There also appers to be a smaller flat seal, that I assume is internal? (maybe worth replacing this at the same time?). Any clues on who may supply these, as a bit short on time to research and car is a daily driver. Cheers

If not the plug, maybe swap a HT lead?

Thanks Johny. Will see it they fit snuggly? (not much fuel pressure with an open valve to dislodge them anyway, I assume?). Not sure how to easily peen these (certainly I'm not an expert "peener". though the principle seems obvious), to secure valves?, as mentioned, the top of the removed valves, were (from memory), a couple of mm below the top, peening surface, so evan thought alloy, may take a little bit more wellie? . Will see how the new valves fit and take it from there.

I Bought a cheap used AC pump to keep as as quick bolt on spare if needed, while travelling long distances. I have bought a service kit to rebuild it. To remove the old valves I used a half round needle file to remove the slight ridges/bulges, that corrosponded to, and are below four (for each valve) tiny rectangle recesses on the body around the valve bores. I assume these reccesses were the footprint of the original factory (hand?) peening tool?. The valves were sitting. maybe a couple of mm below the flat surface of the pump body which contained the peening marks. Do I use a suitable shaped punch in the origonal peening recesses? or other info on how I re-peen the new valves in?. Cheers Dave

Have a 3.27, that was in Vitesse 2L when I got it. No problem with Porlock Hill

Thanks. It's very tiny particules in K seal that I assume? would only accumalate and therefore block corrosponding small leaks, or block very narrow coolent passages that already had some blockage, though who knows?

Any personal problems with K seal Richeee?. Just asking, as there are different views on it. Have used it myself on a couple of engines, with no apparent problems, and it MAY, have plugged a few smaller leaks that MAY have deleloped during that time? No idea myself?

Hi. When doing this, I visually try to determine when the corrosponding valve/s are open fully to set the relevent closed valve gap. Is this ok and accurate enough for the correct gap?, as I assume there is a some leeway anyway with the valve closed, due to the circular heel of the cam turning a bit after closing and then begining to open valve. This is how I've always thought it would work out myself?, though been thinking for ages I should check. Hope this is making sense? Chhers