daverclasper

Thanks guys. That's telt me then! 🙂 I guess it would have just been a tiny bonus point, if it may have made a difference🙂

I replaced this on the Vitesse a few years ago, as was looking old and brittle. The original was maybe around a metre in length? and a fairly straightish run from the block to gauge. The only one I found available at a reasonable price was from Moss, I think it was 1.8 M long and is hence circularly, curled around a few times before going through the bulkhead to the gauge. I never made a note of when I replaced it and never linked it ("doh") though may have been around the same time I noticed my oil pressure dropped from around 65 at 2000rpm, to 50 at running temp and idle, about 25, to 18. I assume?, the longer the hose, the less pressure?, though no idea if it makes a difference in this arrangement? This was a good few thousand miles ago and still ok, and hasn't got worse, so not too bothered. Intrigued if it could be related ?, please. Thanks

I seem to remember the boot stay bracket needs removing (or can do)?

Ah, thanks

Cheers Ian, not heard of the pilot bearing, what is it, the clutch thrust?

Thanks for the useful info. Is that a sleeve/short tube in the bell housing, that accommodates the shank of the 3/8" dowel bolt?.

Yes, I always do that and try to fit the hose straight on. Also I have put a bit of a chamfer on the metal pipe ends

Could a hose be partially clamped somewhere (before, or after?) along the fuel line to temporarily reduce fuel pressure/amount of fuel to carbs. If the car then runs ok (at higher rpm as well) with no leaks, then maybe pump providing too much pressure?. I assume?, a needle valve not sealing well would leak as the the pump works harder, so could be better with line clamped, though still providing enough fuel for running, even if the pump was providing usual pressure? I'm no expert, so maybe BS?

Don't know if I've imagined this?, is it better to do it when engines at operating temperature?.

Thanks folks. I will probably leave it and hope that in normal use/low use, maybe some periods of laying up, over 50 years +, the tanks are unlikely to leak through internal rust. Would be interested to hear off anyone has encountered an issue with this?

Thanks. I did wonder about that Johny. Thanks Wagger. I never use reserve, as not to risk picking up crud. How would I use reserve to check for rust without pulling it into the main feed pipe

Thanks Johny, that's useful. I guess any drastic internal rot would be at the bottom and only seen with tank removal (unless fuel was completely siphoned out and maybe able to get a good view of bottom of tank)? I'm thinking you reckon trying to remove plug gently is risky?. I wouldn't be giving much force if I tried this. I think also this area of the tank around the plug has often been subjected to corrosion from road spray and boot ingress of water etc. Mine is externally very sound. Think I ay give it a gentle go, wish me luck

Hi. I understand why this is best left alone, though please hear me out. I have never had problems with any crud or rust getting into the feed pipe, though I understand that any water that may be in the tank from condensation (car is outside all year) etc will sit at the bottom of the tank? If so, could this cause the tank to rot out at the bottom?. If so, it would, lt would seem a good idea to drain the bottom of tank now and then?. There is hardly any corrosion on my car, in fact I have never had a problem at all undoing any chassis fasteners etc. So. I was thinking to attempt to gently loosen the tank plug. I think Colin advised to grip the plug neck. I was also thinking that as well as penetrating fluid, some gentle heat on the neck would not cause the fuel to ignite, then some gentle tapping with a hammer on the spanner? What do you think?. I would struggle afford a replacement tank, if it did let go. Thanks

Thanks Guys, very useful info

Yes, great if you can find some?

Ahh, thanks, that makes sense

I've never understood the theory of using Stonechip. I understand its like a primer and will absorb water?. If it's top coated, then this will resolve this, though presumably the top coat will chip off over time and allow moisture into the Stonechip?

Hi. This is the steering rack inner ball joint I gather. I only do around 2000 miles gentle driving a year, so not too urgent I assume?. If I understand the Haynes manual, this may be corrected by re shimming the balljoint cup and it's housing?. If so, what would be the easiest way to do this, can it be done without removing the rack?. I can't see any shims that are available?, and if I can adapt alternatives or make my own, then I enjoy that type of thing. If so what what be the best material to use? and any advice please. PS. I understand that there is a bush on just the nearside of the rack that doesn't get lubed with regular greasing and can therefore wear. Could this be the issue? and any info on if this can be DIY repaired?. In the manual, I cant find a reference to it, or see it on the rack diagram? Thanks

I have one, though if the gear knob is removed, then they appear to be easily removed?

I've used 151 products often, including paint/varnish etc. Seems good and also cheap

I've often wondered why repro folding sunroofs aren't manufactured, I thought there must be a reasonable demand for conversions and replacements?. Probably a good reason?

Nice one Doug

Great, well done for sticking with it

Ah, what has confused me, was that I read the original post as if it was water getting into the roof trim area that had caused the problem

I wonder if DB Aston owners owners, use David Brown tractor parts🙂