daverclasper

Is that because it is said that 3.27 is the weaker one?. Does with care, mean no racing starts?

Thanks Paul. Yes I do keep an eye on that one

Hi. Due to the position/angle of the tank filler neck, I'm thinking this would be unlikely to leak any rain water into tank anyway?. I will change when I find a suitable replacement Thanks, Dave

I recently watched a U tube of a very young woman who had bought a white 1300 one off them unseen. Her delight and excitement when she picked it up and checked out the interior etc was great to watch. Was that maybe the same one?

I do use the milky solutions that turn black, though only on the small pits that are often left after wire wheels etc have taken off the bulk and are not always easy to remove. Not had any obvious problems yet (started using it 10 years ago and car is outside all year round). Any primer I have used on top of converter, seems to adhere well. I did find, if converter used on thicker surface rust it failed quite quickly.

How bad a thing is that please Pete? (I don't even know what this is?)

Is about 2mm at the edge of the tyre at 12 and 6 oclock ok

Always on the lookout for extra drain holes positions on Vitesse (I can't work out where that one is?). Any good tips please?

That's a favourite of Pete's (or more of a headache, when he's helping others)

Hi. I'm assuming the pic on the right is the correct position for the spikey washer?

Yes. It's surprising. I mean, I've had to change a few over the years on other vehicles

I understand the original bushes fitted are often ok after 50 odd years. Wish I knew this when I replaced mine as a matter of course, as they looked shot, though weren't an issue on MOT's

What is "bundy"?, please

Thanks guys, very useful stuff. It's for a ,continue the holiday (as all our holidays involve the car) repair if need be in my case, without dismantling the Cylinders. I can always reseal the originals later, as bores are good. Most of my failures have been down to the small seal and loss of pressure, rather than the main seal going completely

Hi. I have a new spare clutch M.C (to carry in my emergency spares box for long trips), which is the cheaper landy one (different volume, I understand) that some folk use. Would this be ok to use if necessary/needed to replace a faulty brake M/C Cheers, Dave

Thanks for all your info on this Cliff. Very useful

I seem to remember, packing out between 3-5mm? from an old thread?

I'm used to them now, though top tip

You must have better spatial awareness/co-ordination than me. if I'm wearing size 9 walking boots and have to brake unexpectedly, I usually hit the throttle at the same time

I used snug, short lengths of plastic tubing, glued on

Would an aerosol of clear coat help?

And maybe a biro as well as the straw Doug?

Thanks folks. That's great info Pete. Thinking, I could mark off identical increments on each straw to save measuring with a ruler after each adjustment?. As I mentioned above, am I correct about balance of the plates/sync, being less of an issue at higher rpm?.

Have been using the hose to the ear, though how reliable is this?. Not after perfection, and mainly looking for any better economy. I do a fair bit of city driving in which my mpg is far less than when cruising (which is usual), though, I understand the lower the rpm, the more important the balance is, as the more the butterfly flaps move towards horizontal position, the air intake is more equalised anyway?, which makes sense to me?. Also, if opinion is not positive about using the hose?, any ideas on a DIY tool to make for this please?. have googled it, though no joy. This would be for CD150 Stroms Cheers

I think it actuates the general look on lighter cars. Sometimes the contrast is a maybe a bit too "contrasty?