daverclasper

No problem at all Doug. Seems they last anyway!. I'm sure I could use a pucture repair patch, etc, in a situation

You certainly did Doug and there still holding up admirably, thanks. Because I'm a bit paranoid anyway and do longish distance touring holidays in car, any breakdown that can't be fixed at the side of the road, would be a right downer. So, I though it could be a good idea to slip them in to my shoe box of small bits that could fail, that I put in the the boot for these trips. Would like to buy another pair off you please, if possible?. Unless, anyone else needs them more urgently?, Thanks

Hi. Does anyone know of any any areas/sections of body/chassis worth doing please. Ta

Hi. A good few NOS for 175's on ebay at the moment, at a good price. Researching the part no's, they are different to CD 150, with a few saying the the same?. Wondered if the main body size is the same, (which incorporates the diaphragm) on the different carbs , even if the the 175 throat is larger? I need them for CD 150 thanks

Thanks all, for info on fitting bearing to shaft, most enlightening.

I guess to refit a bearing on a shaft, it's hitting the top of a strong section of tubing, that's in contact with just the inner race, inner shell, if that makes sense?

You know me Pete (though when you overtook me on the M way going to Twiddle Day and doing a disgracefully slow speed of about 50mph, I was a bit lost and trying to look at road atlas while driving, I would have been powering along at 60 otherwise). Yes, best to change seals. The thing that made me think there maybe ok (and maybe just debris behind the small seal), was that the pressure was lost while stationary (rather than harder braking) and didn't lose pressure again when I tried the next day, even when braking hard (though not at fast speed). Though I don't enough about this, for example, does that seal have to hold a lot of pressure (out of interest)? Thanks for input.

Wonder what the reason for that is?. I can't think of anything obvious?

Also, the repro's of the originals appear to often give problems?. info on previous threads here, about better alternatives

Had a loss of pressure, partial and straight down to the floor. Would build pressure back easily with one or two pumps, though lose pressure again moments later. Thought it likely the small seal at rear of Master cylinder chamber had failed. Obviously stopped using car. Next day I tried it and seemed fine, went for a couple of slow drives around the block, using the brakes a lot, though stopping at times for a bit as well, to see if they lost pressure. Appears to be no loss of fluid. Thinking maybe seal hasn't failed, though maybe a bit of crud behind it at the time?. Seals have been in there about 8 years (reluctant to change, as a matter of course, due to likely repro crap) and changed fluid 3 times in that period, (last time maybe 3 years ago). So, if it is a bit of crud, maybe clean out Master Cylinder?, or any other advice would be great please. Thanks, Dave

Thanks, Great, as difficult to get this sort of info (even though, it's sort of basic)

Pete. Your getting into go faster, must have's! 😊

Hi Doug. any personnel experience, or good info, these work well?

Great idea, No radio, but will try a develop selective hearing around this

Do it myself. I think with me, it's because the factory camber can have "negative" results.

Seems a bit odd mine likes this? (as, if left overnight it wouldn't normally do this) . I suppose, a how long is a piece of string question?.

Apart from the blue ones

It looks like same Vit for sale on U tube recently?. The dealer does a close Video all around the car and points some obvious points of rust/corrosion, as well as lifting the carpets to show some corrosion. He even says it probably/ideally needs a new pan. Seems honest description?. I would be more worried about the body issues, than a sender, reversing light issues at "that price". Not in anyway saying it's necessarily a rip off (wouldn't know, really)

I always crank without choke, until light goes out and no rattle (used to rattle loud for a sec, or two, until I did this). It even rattles quite loud for a split sec after running, if started after a couple of hours and the revs are bit high on start up? (never heard this mentioned anywhere before?). Have spin on filter. Oil pressure (on gauge?) is good and has been consistent for 20,000 miles. Don't drive car hard, so try not too worry too much?

Great your enjoying the car now

So, with older carbs, not an issue that can cause damage, when running a bit weaker in winter, if carbs aren't richened up a bit?

I had a recent split diaphram. Engine would hunt up to 2000 rpm at idle, would run ok, though a bit of popping on over run

I fitted the Canley Poly's a good few year ago (can't remember the brand and don't know if they still the same ones?), as they had a good reputation with a few folk on the Triumph forums. Blue ones and not too hard. They were at the time considerably cheaper than other brands. My originals looked dodgy, as bulging out and looked deteriated, at the ends, though I found out later, these can apparently be fine and still do the job years later.

Maybe a daft idea, thought could black boot polish (or something similar) help to preserve my tired window rubbers , that do see the sun often?

So just flat?, as appose to turning for the locating shape. Can someone explain please?