daverclasper

Hi. For my car use, low milaege fairly gentle use, is it just best to use feelers?. I understand they compesate for any wear of the plastic heel? Cheers, Dave

Yes, always found the graveyard very good.

Hi. Any checks without removing the stat? I guess when starting from cold, then no flow of coolent into the top of rad, visible with the cap removed? Thanks

Prefer that myself Mjit ,car repairs are on the road where parked, don't want it to get washed into street drain and then the sea. My block and rad drain tap wont turn easily to drain, haven't tried much force om them. Have tried penetrating fluid, though no joy. I could try a bit of localised heat on it to try to get them to move, though maybe break it/stop it sealing?. The cooling system has always appeared in good shape. No rusty water or clogging up parts, so maybe worth a gentle try?. If rad and block did need plugging with a bolt after me messing, are both a pipe thread (or common imp) and if so what size threads please> cheers, Dave

Trim it down?

Generally more wear on the top hinge?

I've got one of those though (fortunately) not had to use it yet. I guess they show that every working generally ok, up until the plug ( which could have failed)?

Thanks Guys. on my, To Do, list. I think I over maintain sometimes, as have given a heathy squirt of oil down the shaft every year or so and had a points problem fairly recently. Area around the the plate top plate and points was a bit oily. It seemed a bit baked on, on the contacts. Cleaned and gave the contacts a file. It cured a gradual, though getting worse (until it wouldn't start) starting problem. Can these be over oiled, or does it drain out somewhere?. Dave

Sorry, no idea. Is it worth emailing any Triumph restoration places with your photo, for advice?

If it's just the lacquer/varnish that is cracked and flaking and the main ply layers separating a bit, then very professional results can be achieved with strong glues and general varnish hand painted, with fine flatting down, though maybe you have no time and want a bespoke veneer finish anyway

Hi. I have a dizzy with the Vernier adjustment gauge. At the moment the timing is set up pretty accurate I think, though is on it's maximum retard adjustment on the Vernier adjustment wheel. Thinking it would be an idea to have the the timing set correct, with the Vernier wheel in about the middle of its range, so allowing any further, easier, finer adjustment. So thinking, if I set up a bulb to do it statically and when the points open for any cylinder (whether on compression or exhaust stroke) and bulb lights, then advance on the Vernier to half way of the range, then retard, by moving the body of the dizzy until bulb lights. Would this then give me pretty much my original timing setting. Hope this makes sense?. Dave ,

Welcome and a lovely example of my favorite GT6 model

Not saying the info is correct, though the websites I've just looked are saying EDPM is poor against petrol?

Didn't know you had a Vitesse, or is that what you call the Vit bonneted Herald? Very nice work on the gauge, love that sort of low cost/more time, resto stuff

Good luck with it Steve Which are the points that need to measure 45" please Dave

Air filters and their gaskets are all fitted with the cut out at the top?

Thanks Pete. Your reply came in when I was typing. It took me about 5 seconds when I realised how to do it. My bloody memory

Thanks Guys, excellent. That rang a bell, about that locking tab. I overlooked it when I glanced at manual

I've done this job a few times easily (including once before on this original Girling). I'm pushing the distance piece down to release spring tension, though can't manipulate the end of the valve spindle into the right position of the keyhole, so it releases?. Any idea what I'm doing wrong please. Thanks Dave

Thanks folks. I never overpack the fronts with grease, though use the grease gun on the rears every couple of years, though only do about 1500 miles a year. It normally takes a good few pumps before grease (which looks like the older, as I have alternated between the black and brown, not on purpose, just what was there at the time!) comes out of inner side of hub (so guess it must lose some, though no obvious evidence of this, as not sprayed around anywhere visable?). So maybe overdoing it, though no way of knowing, and probably overthinking it (as usual). Thanks

Thanks, and neglected with servicing as well often, I assume (front trunnions breaking after 10 years, etc). Saying that, if the bearings you've found to be ok, does the shaft wear, regardless of regular greasing?

Wow. Did the hubs turn smoothly with the shafts off the car, and suggest they were ok? Also, it does make you wonder if they may do a fair few miles with some wear on shafts? Dave

Mine flicky (intermittently) at idle only. Any idea if outer cable needs shortening, or lengthening?. I did lube it ages ago, though, that made no difference

No problem at all Doug. Seems they last anyway!. I'm sure I could use a pucture repair patch, etc, in a situation

You certainly did Doug and there still holding up admirably, thanks. Because I'm a bit paranoid anyway and do longish distance touring holidays in car, any breakdown that can't be fixed at the side of the road, would be a right downer. So, I though it could be a good idea to slip them in to my shoe box of small bits that could fail, that I put in the the boot for these trips. Would like to buy another pair off you please, if possible?. Unless, anyone else needs them more urgently?, Thanks