daverclasper

Hi. No pancakes, standard filters and box. They are the Thames Barrier choke type, car Mk1 2Litre. I will try setting again with lifting pin. Is it just for a second that the revs will alter, and then back to normal or do something else if the pin is held up please?. Got a feeling that if I get that right at idle it will not reach a brown plug colour at cruising, though it will probably not miss or hesitate. Don't want to cause any weak running damage is main concern. Thanks Dave

I partly agree. Used a kit on brake M//C 4 years ago and still fine. On clutch M/C, I was fitting new seals too often, due to small leak. The bore was smooth, but maybe it had worn out of spec (clutch piston travels further and used more often?). Mine is always black fluid in reservoir, some say this is the aluminium wearing?. Dave

Thanks Pete Old needles 6J, as are new ones. Dave

Hi Did the 200 mile trip. Did a couple of plug chops and enriched mixture, though only got a grey plug colour. Averaged 30mpg at probably an average of 50mph using overdrive. Back in the city, did about 3 miles and looked at plugs, Very sooty and revs rising doing the lifting pin technique. Also the mixture screws were both 5 and 3/4 turns down which seems excessive. Always been prone to this. Very heavy fuel fuel consumption in town if mixture set something like for cruising. That's why I replaced the parts mentioned above. One thing, the points plate has only about 5mm vacuum movement at it's edge, due to the way it's been earthed, could be affecting mixture that much at idle?. Any ideas please. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Pete I meant 800 revs (doh) Will do some more fiddling. It's not missing or hiccuping on acceleration, though maybe short on power. (hard to know as engine is worn I think and never driven another to compare) Thanks, Dave

Thanks folks Been giving the lifting pins another go. Idling at about 8000 revs. Twiddling about with slight, different setting of the mixture screws I think I can hear a change in revs up and down (and even staying the same!), though only for maybe a second and then then engine will stall. Is that supposed to happen? please. Dave

Thanks Pete No time before I do trip, to experiment with plug chops and haven't yet got a feel/ear for the lifting piston technique. I was thinking maybe 1/2 a turn out out each mix screw to improve, or should I go more. Concerned about pos damage to engine in short term, until I get time to mess about with it. Cheers, Dave

Hi Having a few issues with carbs at the mo which I'm trying to sus out and will prob go into more detail later. Have to a 200 mile trip shortly which I'll take steady. Plugs colour is a very pale grey, flakey coating which I think suggests weak mixture. just wondering if this may cause over heating damage to pistons/valves. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Thought may be of interest (no connection to seller). Ad reads £25, ono, Good condition 01964670036 East yorkshire Dave

The Morris Minor Center in Bristol use a guy (can't remember his name),who works part time for them as a trimmer. No experience of his work, though he gave me good advice on a sun roof I was restoring. Dave

Hi At some time the car has had, what looks like the lower front wishbone bracket shims (2 each side) fitted to the engine mounts to raise the engine height. Not looked recently, but think the steering rack is very close to sump. The top hose is just touching the inside of bonnet and car has largish gaps between vertical rear edge of bonnet and bulkhead (maybe to aid this hose clearance). Any idea what may be causing this, as would like to have engine at normal height (without snagging the steering tack) to see if bonnet can be moved back a bit to close the gaps (without causing more hose interference) I guess this could be a multitude of things, but any pointers would be great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi Wondering about this (mounted near vertical). Never really looked at filter after running, though it is only about 1/4 (max) full generally. Squirts what I thought is a healthy amount out of fuel line when cranking. Any advice great thanks. Cheers, Dave

I do the rotor arm as well, though if pro's want to steal it then I assume they will have a rotor or two that fit the main types of dizzy

Thanks Karl It is very satisfying. I was brought up like that, other lads painting tatty chopper push bike frames etc (better shut up on the "when I was a lad") syndrome. Dave

Hi I understand these can rot from the inside. I can't see where water/debris can can get in?. Any tips on cleaning out for rust prevention/drilling drain holes etc please. Any tips great, thanks. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Pete Not looked for wire yet. Will aim for doing it that way. Is the refacing is so you can use feelers conventionally and accurately. Dave

Thanks everyone Pete. With regard to the paper clip idea. Does the wear platform have an open front in the recess , where the end of paper clip would push in?, if this makes sense, please. Cheers, Dave

Hi Karl Been following this thread with interest, as I prefer to reuse parts as much as pos and do things on a budget. Would you mind letting me know where you got the Aluminium Oxide Disk , it seems the biz. Also does that attach to a normal drill. Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot everyone. Lots of food for thought there. The Bilt Hamber aerosol may be the way to go, as Its the side rail/body mounts/area around the rear spring that I'm concerned with getting to. I can brush on the rest of underside I think. Cheers, Dave

Thinking of buying a very compact compressor from Screwfix (have to smuggle it in the house and try and find a bit more room under one of the beds). It's 10 bar pressure, which I think would be good enough to spray thinned down Waxoil, with a paraffin gun attachment. Also wondering, would this be enough pressure to use a rattle gun to some effect?. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Defo in the standard antifreeze camp.

Thanks folks and thanks a lot Rich, for your offer of click thingy. At least I have opened up the possible tight gaps. In the past I appear to have identified the noisy ones with engine running and length of hose to ear and tother end close to valve, then closed it up until it feels the the same as others by rocking the rocker by hand. Will give that a go again for now, unless this is an bad way of doing it?. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks. Richard, I have no unleaded head conversion . Stopped using lead sub, as folks experience, suggests that on engines with some good miles on them, will survive with lead memory. Cheers, Dave

Hi . Thought I'd check clearance's today as stopped using lead substitute a while back. 3 were a bit tight. 1 exhaust, 2 inlet and a couple a bit big. I assumed that normal wear (not valve recession, from using unleaded) would show as the bigger gaps. Also never sure on how tight to do up the nuts. I think I may go unnecessarily tight, as take a bit to undo?. Don't know how much load the nuts take when running?. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Canleys have one for sale £100. Don't know it that's same one