daverclasper

Hi On Vitesse with Stroms. Plug no 2 shows running rich compared with 1 and 3. No oil on spark plug. No 2 piston is very oily on top, when viewed through spark plug hole, compared to other 5 . Could this using oil on this cylinder/wear, be related for this please?. Help great please. cheers, Dave.

Thanks, Pete Will do Cheers, Dave

Hi. Need to replace it (On vitesse). Removed it according to haynes manual and the flat edges at bottom of the spindle have torn the fibre washer under the bowl a bit when pulling it out. So a few questions please. Repair kits don't seem to have these 2 washers, so any alternatives (eg-maybe adapt some generic ones)?. the thin bowl under diaphragm to assess the washers seems difficult to remove without damaging it?. How to refit the diaphragm without damaging any new washers?. Is it the end of the world if some engine oil splashes into the bottom half of the pump due to the partly damaged washers?. Any help great please. Thanks, Dave

Hi Tend not to worry about this too much, but now and then see a photo of an old car pretty burnt up and think, oooh. Looked on the net and seem to find lot's of uninformed opinions as usual. Anyone got any links to good info on this, eg, causes, prevention, what best to do when it happens ( to save car, without too much danger to ones self). Looking for practical advice without very,very stringent H/S, which of course the Fire Brigade, etc would have to promote. Any help great, thanks. Dave

Hi. and thanks. Idle has suddenly gone a bit high and won't go any lower with idle screws backed off and nothing sticking on the cable/linkage to prevent shutting down. Plugs quite paler than usual. John. I thought if a smallish leak, then spraying anything would alter running a bit, for a test, and waters sort of, free,ish and won't harm. Cheers, Dave

Hi. would a fine spray of water work, to temporarily seal any leaks and therefore alter idle speed please?. Thanks, Dave

Hi Just wondering. To get a rough idea/compare temp, on things like brakes, would using our fingers still be ok. Cheers, Dave

Hi Just a point, to maybe prevent folk spending unnecessarily, I wasn't aware diaphragms were a service items that should be changed annually. I have a receipt implying mine were fitted 8 years ago. Had the car 4 years and done 12,000 miles. Car used all the time, which is better for these type of components I understand. Cheers, Dave

Interesting. Always set handbrake at road height, didn't know this for normal shoe adjustment and have always set on the droop. To adjust under load and check there not binding, then I guess, if will move by pushing car, then ok ?. Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot for all your replies, very useful. would like to repair if pos. Have read Alan T's info on TR site. very good. Few questions please. Not dismantled my A/D yet, its a repro I think so don't how it's made up inside. Is the short length/stub of cable from the O/D to the A/D square headed, where it fits into A/D, same as how it fits O/D pinion. If so. Haven't got a broken cable to adapt for this, so was wondering if i could make up a solid bit , maybe file up a length of thinish , round alloy (if tough enough) rod and file to a square profile( Pretty good at this sort of stuff as used to make silver jewelry), though it would have to be pretty straight/true I imagine (I assume the the cable gives a bit of flexibility/leeway). Any thoughts please. Thanks, Dave

May be lucky, though never had the sliver problem (will now Iv'e said that). Iv'e always sanded any sharper corners/ burrs off the male metal stubs, put a smear of vaseline on them and lined up straight to gently push on. Maybe this has helped?.

Thanks Pete, that's brill. I thought it should be. I have made daft mistakes in the past to my cost, so thought I'd better check. Dave

Cheers Pete Will replace A/D anyway. Just need to know if can drive in meantime without wrecking O/D pinion etc, as don't know how this is secured, and the broke bit of square drive cable from pinion shaft to angle drive, I have removed, if this does support the pinion shaft. thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete. Removed angle drive. The square ended drive cable that locates into the end of the O/D pinion shaft has broke about 1" and a 1/2" down from the square end. Have removed this and put angle drive back on, as need the car for work tom. Looking at angle drive, diagram, I'm not clear on what holds the pinion and shaft from moving outwards when turning. If its just the square end drive cable that Iv'e taken out, can I still use car, do you think please. Thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete. How was your holiday?. No withdrawal symptoms with being away from the garage I hope. I think mine may have that adapter as has the securing plate that comes with it. Will have to have a proper look. Will have to jack G/B up a bit, Maybe an inch or more, to take off angle drive I think. Can I just undo the G/B,O/D mounts as the prop sliding joint will allow for the movement. Also, where does that washer fit, as can't see it on any parts diagram etc. Cheers, Dave

Hi, thanks It's a J type and a push fit into O/D secured by a plate with a cut out, which is held by a small bolt I seem to remember. The cable has always had some side to side waggle and front to back play, which I have always wondered about and I don't remember a separate washer when I took it off once. cheers, Dave

Hi This appears to have broke on Vitesse, so a few questions please. I have heard of this being omitted and the speedo cable going in directly at 90 degrees to G/B?. If so, I can't see any male threads anywhere,to attache the cable locking cap thingy?. Also I guess It already has a longer cable due to being an O/D box, therefore assume I would need an even longer cable and if so, are these available?. I have heard that the angle drive can act as a sort of mechanical fuse, as it's the weak bit of system and there prevent other parts getting damaged, if a problem develops. Any views on this?. Any help, great, thanks. Cheers, Dave

Just to let you know, for anyone buying new I.S. Mine started working ok after a few hundred miles.

Pete. I thought you on holiday?. Hope you haven't come home too early due to a problem. Dave

Thanks folks I couldn't see myself why it would have altered the timing. There was no random miss firing as such. Previous to this I had removed the points plate and base plate, but can't think what I could have put back together incorrectly?. Thanks, Dave

Hi I have heard of people moving the needles as a get out of jail method, though no personal experience. I assume this would also alter mixture at higher revs?. Dave

Hi and thanks Mine has been fine. I think maybe I had not pushed it down fully after doing some work on dizzy. It was low on power and pinking so I retarded timing to get to work, though still low on power and I wondered how the timing could have moved. I removed rotor, as working in a dodgy part of town. When I refitted it the car was running much better so made me think it was rotor not fitted correctly and I advanced the timing back to original setting. Car still a bit flat when I open the taps I think. So I was wondering if the rotor not seating had caused this this bad running. I can mess around a bit with the timing to see if I can improve the pick up, as was running great before this. Cheers, Dave

Hi Could the symptoms of this be pinking and down on power, plus some carbon build up on a few diz cap contact segments would anyone know please. Any help great please. PS, I must stop tinkering. Cheers, Dave

Hi Any top tips to stop them from slipping, using common garden utensils/materials please. These are fairly high, steeper slope ones. Car on Street, so can't drill in batten etc. Any help great please. Thanks, Dave

I read about this in an article in Club Torque mag (July 13) viewed online with a photo. "drill a new hole 7/16" closer to the fulcrum pin on the compensator link". Apparently gives much better handbrake performance at the expense of a bit more travel. Dave