daverclasper

Just a practice

Hi Your idea Pete, thanks. Wayne. I'll give it some more mileage (maybe disturbing the arm, S/C cylinder has masked it temporarily) and if necessary adjust the spring position and see what happens. Will keep this thread posted. If it seems to have worked will try and put photo on. Dave

Hi Pete, I have fitted a fairly low tension spring to the top of push rod (It's an interference fit, though can be adjusted up and down, by twisting the spring, if that makes sense). It is currently only about 2mm proud of tip of pushrod, though has silenced the Canary on a short test drive. Won't likely have put any load on the crank thrusts will it ?, do you think (as a bit paranoid of this). Thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete , and many thanks for your always good ideas on alternative ways of doing stuff. Like the spring to the push rod idea. Will give a go if can find suitable spring. Thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete Don't mind the noise. Good bodgery fine by me. Trying to prevent G/B out and expense for clutch repairs is main concern. Thanks, Dave

Thanks Pete. Would like to go for the simpler job of a heavier S/C spring. I assume that's the conical shaped one?. Any clues where to start looking for that please?. Use car for work, so not ideal to strip it to get an idea of size at the mo. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Pete Chirruping noises is a good description of me driving along in my Triumph Aviary. Just a couple of questions please You mentioned the older slaves with some push rod play. I imagine the bearing would only be in contact with diaphragm when you press the pedal and this would cause less wear on bearing?. These slaves will be hard to get in ok condition I imagine. Any way of modifying my current one?. Or, would it be fine to fit a heavier slave spring, though I imagine the bearing would be turning all the time (years ago a mechanic told me about premature bearing failure, due to folk leaving there foot resting on the clutch pedal). Any ideas where I would get a spring from?. Sorry, that was more than 2 questions and hope I'm not banging on about irrelevant stuff. Thanks again, Dave

Thanks Pete. That's great info. Noise, not too bad with G/B on so will leave it, unless it gets worse. Unless it is slowly causing wear/damage to diaphragm fingers etc?. Also is the throw out bearing also called release bearing please. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks. Noise seems to be from bell housing area and is almost a squealing noise, have noticed it's there a bit at idle in neutral as well. Very gentle pressure on the clutch pedal and it stops (my clutch disengages quite high up the pedal travel, since I fitted one of those very cheap Landy M/C) whether in neutral on driving along. Cheers, Dave

Hi This is quite loud with gearbox cover off. Starts at about 1200 rpm. Does it in all gears (not sure about reverse) and also in neutral if the engines is revved up a bit. Gearbox was rebuilt by Mike Papworth about 6,000 miles ago and not had hard use. Any ideas? and something I should look at sooner rather than later? (prefer not to have to take G/B out really). Any help great please. Thanks, Dave

Thanks. Pretty sure mine came out of U/V joint end of S/J somehow!. Will investigate when get time. Cheers, Dave

Hi Wayne. Did you get around to greasing S/J. If so, where did the grease exit from please?. Cheers, Dave

Hi. Finally around to dismantling mine and knocked out the ferule?/broken cable bit out of large pinion. Not confident to try a repair. So will look out for a Smith unit secondhand. A few questions please. Would a Smiths require the washer (or would it do any harm) as I understand BL used copies in production at some point so may be when the bulletin info came in (above is dated 68)?. I assumed the washer fits inside the knurled locking ring on the A/D to put extra distance between A/D and the threaded adapter (and therefore the O/D pinion) the ring screws onto, though the washer pictured on the bulletin looks too large for that (maybe not to scale). Also some Smiths are advertised for MGB. Have been told these will fit Triumph. I guess any differences on this Smiths model, would be down to different sized square end of speedo cable?. Any other make of car that would be compatible, does anyone know?. Any help great please. thanks, Dave

Hi. No personal experience, but a lot of info out there about the standard gearbox not up to torque of the 2.5. I think the standard G/B can be modified to take the some extra BHP to some extent and also folk fit ford Type 9 box, which is apparently very strong. Dave

Hi. Would it be ok to use this on any electrical components, for example, the inside of the voltage regulator. Any advice great, thanks. Dave

Wow. That's a bit of original barn find/patina (the heavy smoking 60s/70s). Almost seems a shame to shake it out. Could you not preserve it with spray on varnish?. Museums recreate this sort of stuff . Only joking. Dave

My Goodness. That's a very long list for a "car cover". Car covers are apparently better if there is some air allowed to travel between body and cover. Makes sense, as non are apparently 100% condensation proof. Cheers, Dave

Quite surprised how long my front wheel bearing has held up (about 8.000 miles), after hearing about cheap ones lasting a few hundred miles!) as it was about a tenner from Canleys. Used the old felt seals though still had to adjust a couple of times in that mileage. I guess they won't do 40.000 like they may have done, back in the day. Dave

I have a WASO (seem well made) and got a spare key cut from a local old guy, lock smith. Then someone wrenched it off to nick my fuel. Managed to get cap to fit again, though won't lock. So. Was glad the tank neck wasn,t knackered and will not use a locking cap again. Dave

Thanks Paul. Looks like a bargain for someone with time to finish it. Just keeping my own Vitesse maintained takes up all my spare time at the mo. Always something to to. Dave

Off topic a bit here, but does anyone know what colour that Vit/13/60 saloon in the corner of showroom is. I rather like it. Cheers, Dave

Not sure what hose that would be, though any hose leaking is normally just a case of stopping it (prob, just tightening the clamp) and topping up any lost coolent (mixed with antifreeze), as you say. Cheers, Dave

Always found Vaseline good for stubborn rubber. Dave

Hi On Vitesse with Stroms. Plug no 2 shows running rich compared with 1 and 3. No oil on spark plug. No 2 piston is very oily on top, when viewed through spark plug hole, compared to other 5 . Could this using oil on this cylinder/wear, be related for this please?. Help great please. cheers, Dave.

Thanks, Pete Will do Cheers, Dave