Peter Truman

Pete it happens accidentally sometimes when I knock the jam jar I’m bleeding into over! So might as well do it intentionally as you said!

Aren't the Spitfire rear wheels if Minilite replica's are fitted a PITA to put on! the wheels tuck under when jacked up so they have to be lifted up and held on the studs or the wheel falls off the studs all whilst trying to centralize the wheel holes with the studs as the wheel holes are larger than the stud dia and then trying to get the chrome nuts on without cross threading, took me 5 min each and I was bug***d last week after having to remove the wheels to bleed the rear brakes! Wagger I think I agree with you re new tyres and punctures, my mate brought his wife a new top of the range Merc, which has NO spare and special run flat tyres which Mercedes say can't be repaired. In the first 3 months 3 flats that required new run flat tyres at $800 each, Mercedes want $5k to replace the run flat tyres and their special rims with 5 standard tyres and normal rims., Mercedes won't give him a credit for any of the replaced tyres/wheels. I can get him normal Michelin correct fitment tyres at 50% off under $800 for 5 tyres, so he's tyring to source the correct Merc wheels at a reasonable cost, no one wants the near new run flat rims! fortunately he has a very large garage/shed for 8 cars so he can store them, hey in time they might become collectable?

Must look up UK & USA drop box's, yes I brought a new Spit brake master cylinder from Hawkswood very helpfull and there was some arrangement for NZ to Melbourne supply as delivery at around NZ local delivery rates, didn't fully understand? they quoted an Aussie web address? https:// classiccarpartsaustralia.com.au.php?route=account/order/info&order id= then the specific order item No. hey I was happy and would trade again, but payment had to be by NZ Trade Me account or universal credit card, as NZ don't appear to use PayPal, it's never quoted or able to use there, what's the story.

I had assumed it was eBay ripping us off Don't think I've brought anything off ebay for nearly a year, the main driver being postage costs. Pefer to buy off the UK major Triumph suppliers, find MD most helpful.

What’s going on with UK overseas parcel postage eons ago used to be reasonable then a sudden jump around 5 years ago to a min of just over 20 quid then recently I noticed min of over 30 then just now light weight small items being quoted at over 80 quid? obviously they don’t want to sell overseas, fortunately there’s a very good and Triumph comprehensive Trade Me seller in NZ who whilst parts are initially a little dearer postage isn’t bad but NZ use payment option called Trade Me and I don’t want another payment type/risk but last thing I brought I had to use credit card but overall the costs less than quoted and less thanAus local.

As reported previously I've converted my daughters Mk2 Spitfire from Type 12 Calipers to Type 14, the upgrade requiring a new larger Master cylinder with larger reservoir, but the same 5/8in piston, I used the type 12 master cylinder rod should it have been changed, is the type 14 rod different?. I initially had bleeding issues ie getting fluid through to the calipers but loosening the fixed to flexible pipe joints got the fluid through, but there was a major air lock with a lot of air, normal bleeding got pedal pressure through, But I didn't bleed in the correct sequence I did the front first, then the rear then the front again but not at the same time, a day between the rear to front bleed. Hopefully another bleed tomorrow in the correct sequence will remove the last bit of sponginess? My issue is with the original type 12 set up the pedal was rock hard with little pedal travel, now with the type 14 calipers the brake pedal appears to travel further which appears to give a softer pedal. The brake pedal travel is logical to some extent as the master cylinder piston is the same diameter but the caliper piston is say 50% greater in dia and hence volume so you have to push more fluid. The new brake pads need bedding in too. Can any one advise the normal Type 14 pedal travel & if a different master cylinder push rod was used.

my daughters Mk2 Spit was rebuilt in the 90's and had accident damage to the front driver's side necessitating a replacement chassis, the owner in error fitted a Herald turret which raised the engine height, which was a clearance problem so to fix it I fitted a Spit turret which cured the height, but the new turret required a square shim washer between the chassis top flange and the turret underside, so yes shims may be required. The new S/H chassis was fully checked by a Triumph guru here for straightness and alignment on a rig he has and was spot on!

Well done no rain, where's the leprechauns in the light beams? dash looks good and headlights illuminate well. Bet you were on a high after that

So has my 68 Mk2 Vitesse, I was told by someone that the two separate bolts are due to the Rotalex rear axle?

Beware lots of current new spring washers are Chinese rubbish and break on tightening. The older wide wire ones as used by Triumph appear OK. Pete L comments interesting

what happens at the sides of the rear vertical backrest and the area over the top of the wheel arch the backrest doesn't appear to be profiled over the wheel arch, like the saloon is?

Don't know and he's now halfway across the Nullarbor so no way will he turn back it's nearly 3500klm from here (Melbourne) to Perth by road and 3hrs time difference, it's a looong way, thats why we fly.

A club member who's driving from Melbourne to Perth then further north was diverted due to an accident in South Aus and came across this Series 1 Landie monumented in Keith SA, up a pole, wonder if it's been ratted for parts? I like the heavy chain securing the pole.

Just seen on ebay a very tidy powder blue Herald 13/60 saloon in Mansfield for 5000quid item 166336214261, plenty of pic's

In my youth when writing telex's from the phone from dads UK Co' to his Aus Co. esp on a Sat morning (UK 11hrs behind) they used to be called snubbers, we had a box of them in our home workshop here for process control equipment think they were brass 1/4 in barrell unions with a very small hole/orifice in a disc in them, Also used in PC equipment on my own water supply pressure monitoring equipment. Nothing as crude as a crimped pipe but kiss always works!

I understand from my daughter that rear boot spoilers do nowt till your above 100kph.

Must admit when replacing the 50 year ol bullet connectors use copper grease to help push the male into the female joiner amd it stops corrosion of the joint

Now be very careful a neighbour when I lived in the UK at Stokesley had spent 3 years restoring a big Healey 3000, on its inaugural drive blasting through the country lanes he misread the closing speed on a farmer's tractor, a "further 3 months" damage repair to the front end was needed!!

Whilst reconditioning the back plates have a look at the handbrake lever return spring bracket it could be nearly worn through and a bit of weld stregthening may be appropriate.

Also just for clarity is the Lumination the optic type or their Magnetronic unit I’ve also had two Optics fail but had their Magnetronic fitted to the Sprint and all was good.

I like that one never heard that quote before but definitely for the archives! & at club meets or Mag!

I have an early OE NOS Herald rack that has only alloy clamps without the locating flanges. Now that rack has holes for the nylon plug at each end located under the alloy clamps. It was brought from an official Leyland Parts Supplier here "Lapco" when they had a fire sale around 45 years ago and it has never been fitted.

It should give being an all brass sender screwed into a cast iron water pump body. Original Equipment Smiths senders as fitted to my Vitesse had a steel sender body with crimped on internal brass bulb, now they were difficult, they rusted in. Try a small set of Stilsens, or Footprint wrench's, I have one of each around 7in long that would be great on that they would lock on and just bite tighter as you heaved, or maybe a Mole wrench, but that might slip

Never thought that LED's could/would be different, like bulbs I assumed a bulb of a certain rating were the same, in answer all LED's brought off ebay at different times and sources. I was thinking of buying new modern LED's for the Spit as there now 20 years old on the basis the modern ones could have better performance, but maybe it won't be worth the potential upgrade in performance, maybe Dad's motto of "if it ain't broke don't try to fix it"! pity he didn't follow his own rule "do as I say not as I do"!

My LED experience with the daughters Spit Mk2 Indicators, nearly 20 years ago for safety ie extra brightness I fitted LED's to the rear indicator's and the original Bi-metallic mech flasher worked OK, later on I changed the front too, the indicators didn't work as there was no load/resistance so I had to fit an electronic flasher can. I subsequently fitted a Lucas 4 way emergency flasher unit the push/pull type with it's own small rectangular Bi-metallic flasher can incorporated into the assembly that all works OK, the flasher rate is fast enough, so obviously the 4 LED's generate enough load. Similarly my Mk2 Vitesse, but the indicators work with front and rear LED's with the old style Bi-metallic mech flasher can, so where is the extra load coming from, all electrical male bullets on both cars have been cleaned and replaced as necessary and all female joiners replaced too, figure that one out, could it be the extra wire length front to rear, or the earth continuity isn't as good relying on the chassis bolts between the front and rear of the car, the battery is fitted in the boot??