Peter Truman

We made my ratchet choke knob with the 32tpi thread fit my mates TR4 choke he turned out a suitable OD rose nut to accept one of the smaller cross head chrome suitably locked into the underside of the rose nut a real interference fit, heat and cold method tomorrow he’ll solder the inner piano wire and outer Bowden cable into the choke dash assembly I also found the thin alloy choke insignia and clear perspex disc to fit in the end of the correct knob so he’s a happy chappie! Were all cooking with gas here

I cleaned the front trim strip with some cellulose thinkers the plastic got sticky so it should be easy to colour tone with your roof colour if the white sticks out too much

Is this it, both very old light one isn't bad (for my car ) and quite usable other a little hard and dirty. I think someone must have a similar section. It is 1.5in wide with an approx 0.5 dia open tube at the front, the strip is 41.5in long, the flange bit obviously fits under the metal channel that the rubber seal push's into and the open curved front push's up against the vinyl roof on the header rail. The last 2 photos are of another soft top fitting probably at the rear deck it's a P piece 46in long by 0.5in wide with an enclosed 0.25in hollow tube it is fully sewn so it's probably at the rear of the hood, I'll have to investigate that one? Both bits came off an Aussie CKD assembled Herald Convertible of around 62 vintage, so whether their UK issue of Aussie 20% local content I don't know?

I assume the original Jubilee's had an indented band the worm gear drives rather than the later copies which are a perforated drive band which chew the rubber hose up when tightening. I only use the indented type, a fellow club member here takes originality to the extreme and uses the original wire type which leaves horrible grooves in the hose.

Seen it used by Plumbers here

Triumph as usual too many options I can get out of trouble as I have two two slotted Chrome ring nuts and I can machine one into the back of a suitably diameter sized rose nut Mine is for a mates TR4 he’s putting it back to original

Checked the choke thread it's 9/16in OD and definitely 32TPI. By comparison the Lucas light switch mounting threads are 9/16in OD by 28TPI (bug*er) Found a reference to the choke thread, see 9/16 Primary Row 32-UN, what ever that is?

Mine looks like your top one I’m sure mine measured at 32tpi using the SAE thread gauge but I’ll check again in the morning it’s difficult to check the nuts their so thin.Also Mine also has a flat on the side to stop it rotating in the hole Thanks for the help Colin

I have 2 thin chrome nuts with the two notch’s in them but am missing the rose style nut that goes on the front of the dash which it sound like you have. I’m helping a friend with his TR4 put his dash back to original currently he has a cheap aftermarket choke set up that doesn’t stay pulled out!

Can anyone advise the dash push/pull end of the cable fitting where it goes thro the dashboard hole it appears to be around 5/8in OD with a 32tpi thread, its a rose style nut. Hoping someone knows what the thread is PeterT

you just wanted to show off that great new dashboard you designed and fitted as you should it looks great! really like the three piece accessory gauge looks as it should always have been there.

I've used the same thermostat cover for the electric rad fan auto cut in/out switch with brass male/female fitting to ensure the switch bulb doesn't interfere with the thermostat., all works well

up to around 30 years ago our caretakers had some of them slashers to cut the grass around the service reservoirs, also petrol flymo's for the steep banks with 2 operators holding a rope each then lowered the flymo down the bank and walked along the top of the bank back and forth, soul destroying work!.

Only 50% of the holes on my roof frame would accept the 1/8in pop rivet and would require a slight ream out, and the strip that holds the webbing is countersunk presumably for the screw head not to protrude and rub on the roof canvas, inevitably some of the screws will strip out so pop rivets are obviously a working solution, I'd use the smaller head rivet so it best fits the countersunk hole, and be careful to ensure none of the rivet center pull through shear shaft sticks above the rivet head, very rare but I've had it happen, and had to knock the rivet steel center shaft back thro the rivet.

My convertible roof which is an Aussie CKD assembly had small screws Holding the plates to the webbing I’ll attach a photo later tonight they are very small short countersunk with a slot head Pic of Webbing clips and the original screws attached

The top pipework on a GT6 rad looks very untidy doesn't it, it looks almost back to the syphonic cooling system of pre war days! One adavantage I assume it is a high point for bleeding the system, but it does make the Vitesse semicircular top rad hose where it sends the coolant backwards to go frontwards is artwork compared to a GT6. Nice looking rad & well finished remember when removing and installing the rad to put a bit of removal cardboard on the face of the rad to protect the fins from damage.

Joseph What’s EP claim to fame Re rebuilt water pump do they use the original brass impeller a new shaft and good mechanical water seal bearings or do they use a better profiled impeller eg Datsun profiled unit for improved efficiency

Should qualify laugh is to the inbuilt fire suppressant not the cause of the problem sympathies for that!

I did a body off resto on my Vitesse but with engine and gearbox left insitu, the resto incorporated Automec copper brake pipe I was duly told copper pipe isn't permitted in brake lines in Australia (Aus Design Rules) ie fatigue. Solution was steel bundy pipes made up to the Automec lengths, bundy is a lot harder to bend and trying to fit that long pipe from the LH chassis leg under the engine to RH chassis leg then up the RH Turrent was impossible with engine fitted, the solution was to cut the pipe under the engine and fit a specially thin double female barrel nipple with flared pipe each end, it was a long and torturous job tightening that joint under an engine which has an indent in the sump to accommodate the steering rack so space is at a premium ie half a flat turn at a time on the barrel nipple and several attempts to make the joint leak proof! That was 20 years ago all still good, the engine is still insitu never removed!

The explanation to me on this forum by others to retain the original solenoid in series was more about the extra current through the starter switch and its failure rather than a wire issue. I originally wired the battery (in boot with battery cable along the outside of the main chassis rail) to the starter with the ignition wire bypassing the old solenoid direct to the new starter solenoid, but after the then forum precautionary advice I reverted to wiring thro the old solenoid, to modify the battery feed was a PITA as I had to join a new length of battery wire up to the old solenoid then back down to the new starter. Do I regret it, not really it seemed a safer way and logical advice/discussion, I think using the old solenoid or bypassing is a case of whatever you feel comfortable with! Heat resistant wire appears a good solution, over the years I've replaced quite a bit of under bonnet wiring due to cracking insulation and wire that is fatigued and subject to breaking, even a 4 year old Jag XJ6 in the mid 80's injector wiring, virtually no air circulation around a Jag engine!

Never understood how the Stags float chambers and needle valves worked being inclined at an angle? The O ring must be in good condition there.

interesting the original manufactured gap in the actual window glass mounting flange where the side pillar meets the bottom or dash frame, the watertight seal relies on the windscreen rubber, making a direct path to the A pillar if there's a leak or your right foot?

I'd read that before, the washer is the clue I assume the rivet must be shanked thro the 3 brackets and stamped hard against the washer only hence permitting the side rail bar to rotate against the two front header rail bars. Space mist have been the reason a shanked bolt and locknut wasn't used?

Wiper blade rubber degeneration is an issue here with the strong summer sun during a dry spell the blades can stick to the screen so I wipe the wiper blades with Rainex monthly during summer to keep them clean and stop them adhering to the screen, don’t know if it helps but makes me think it does!

Nice work and photos in logical order, well done, have a glass of Newcastle Brown! If it's still made? I've carried bottles of that stuff all around the world in the 60's and early 70's to keep workmates happy!