Peter Truman

I soldered the steel disc into the original brass trunnions to seal them, but they were heavily rust pitted quite surprised me considering I had always oiled them from the car being 2 years old

In my Vitesse I put the battery in the boot removed the battery brackets on the bulkhead and put the servo there east/west ways

Have you ever driven an E Type at speed around 130mph, coming up the M1 from London to the NE in the mid 60's no speed limit in those days the front end becomes very light as the lack of aero dynamic aids lets air under the car so the full width of the fast lane plus some was used, no air dam or chin spoiler in those days. Quite scary really, but youth said just push on! It was a 3.8 & never got near 140mph but it was a CV. I reckon dads 300SE 6.3 Merc was safer at approaching 120mph but two stops for long drinks were judicious if peak hour London traffic was anticipated and you wanted to safely get to your central London Strand destination, and back out to the M1 before refueling.

Or even a camber compensator anti roll bar thingy as popular in the States

Smear the bolt with Copper Ease/Grease to stop it seizing, I always lube the pump and Thermostat cover bolts this way to stop future seizing

I had one of those John think it was as Eclipse make. Another advantage was you could reuse all your broken hack saw blades!

Ref the old sender had fuel in the float I’ve replaced these plastic floats twice because of this I found a very small hole cut in the float from the cut sharp end of the float mounting arm where it wraps around the float. The cut end has a very sharp edge to it, fix is to file the barb off and round the wire end a little.

As said previously I found the aftermarket felt seal steel backing ring inner dia didn’t clear the stub axle mounting boss and hence was deformed or pushed in on the inner race stopping the bearing rotating freely. I had the lip seals fitted presumably by PO they werE mounted so the rubber slipped over the stub axle mounting boss and I found wear or rubbing marks on the rubber seal backing plate not good hence conversion back to felt seals with serious modification reqd to get felt and backing ring to clear the stub axle mounting boss!!!

These were Formula Ford style reverse rim 5.5in wheels originally fitted to my daughters Mk2 Spitfire when purchased 23 years ago, now fitted with Aus Superlite 5.5in Mini Lite replica wheels. Note there are NO breather holes in the wheel rims, similar to racing Formula Fords here. They were changed as they looked a little bland on the car.

had the same issue of a leaking olive but I soldered the olive to the pipe this stopped the weep/leak.

I used the original dymno bracket too but lightened it with extra holes? as it was a heavy unit all ok but I fitted a new Lucas 15ACR brought very cheap off local eBay chap brought it for his Lotus but had wrong mounting flange! The daughters Mk2 Spit has a locally made NOS Lucas 15ACR for a Holden it’s a lot smaller sized unit compared to the UK Lucas variant brought very very cheap whilst on holiday in Tassie at a bric n brack shop $15 still going strong after 23 years on that I used the std cast ironTriumph Alt bracket which I had.

Yep I used a stiff black belt as the strap on the roof hand straps on my Sprint! Replacing that horrible plastic

you could even fit a tarp plastic clip together eyelet into the mounting hole to limit wear

Switch in the gear-knob in the gear lever is a Touch of the James Bond Goldfinger Ejector Seat! I fitted gearknob switch in the daughters Mk2 J type conversion she prefers it

The gear knob plastic top with gearchange pattern on it just pushes off, there's a small rectangular cut out on its bottom lip where it joins the metal of the actual knob put a thin bladed screwdriver in it and twist, be careful and not ham-fisted, the top then comes off the knob complete with switch you can then remove the two push on electrical connectors & check the switch for operation & connectivity with a multimeter, replacement switch's are available and if you don't mind losing the ON/OFF lettering there are other easily obtained and cheaper generic switch's available, a bit of the wife's red nail varnish for the ON or active position suffices. Ref the knob left on the gear stalk it should be tight there's a thin nut in the top of the actual knob body which is hard to tighten up just ensure it has enough grip then tighten the chrome tapered nut on the underside of the knob using the two small flats filed into this nut, that should tighten the knob on the stalk. The two very thin wires that go up the stalk into the knob and push onto the switch can get damaged causing an earthed or active connection but there easily replaced with suitable thin wires reconnecting to good wiring below the gearbox cover (gearbox cover out job) new switch push on connectors are difficult to obtain I've used some Telephone push on connectors soldered on and heat shrunk that were locally available here in Aus. Hope this helps & others may also expand the knowledge, sorting out the problem is not difficult just needs care. There could also be an issue with the inhibitor switch fitted on the gearbox or other wiring issues, don't select reverse with the overdrive active as this can damage the one way clutch in the overdrive!

We had great issues with big valve flanges (600mm plus) which had full face gaskets the flange bolts got thread bound with the rubber gasket, which is why all my specs specified insertion gaskets only ie a narrow gasket which fitted between the flanges and inside the line of bolts. Mind you I've never had any issues with full face gaskets in a car environment.

Found This in my records, hope it helps

Have you looked at the Anti Roll Bar on my Vitesse the RH side was low I removed the ARB and when layed flat on the ground one side sat 3/4 in up in the air ie twisted, I had it reset ie normalised with a 1/4in preset the other way the car now sits even ie wheel arch to ground equal on both sides.

Rather than the double Brake/Clutch tray you can get individual uints I've seen them fitted to a GT6 locally here.

Had a bent front plate on a MG 1500 engine that I rebuilt to fit into the daughters MK2 the engine is still in the garage decided the 1147 was better a better performer. Interesting to hear Colin’s comment re different front plates between MG and Triumph 1500 engines but even better to read later comment they were the same! I got a a metalwork shop to straighten the front plate by putting in a press with a straight piece or knife edge across where the bend was it looks straight and a straight edge across the bend shows everything is good.

did that on a Morrie 1000 nearly 60 years ago, cousin towed me with rear wheels dragging before the penny dropped!

I replaced the Mk2 Vitesse 2/35A glass fuse holder with a new Lucas unit 20 years ago because the original fuse box clips even when cleaned used to quickly loose tension. After fitting several accessories over the years which I wired through an extra 6 blade small fuse box a couple of years ago, last year I finally wired two 6 blade fused box's one each Battery and the other Ignition each having their own buss bar, the work was simple the only wire extensions necessary were the 3 original battery purple fused outlets a 2in wire extension was required to connect to the existing loom. The dual box's are mounted in the same position as the original Lucas fuse box behind where the battery was,n advantage is if a fuse blows a LED lights up so easy identification is seen. My battery is in the boot/trunk.

That’s as I understand it too don’t blank the offtakes to an oil cooler

I have several DIY tools for awkward bits on Triumphs eg very ground down thin thin-walled sockets and ring spanners for carb insulator to manifold nuts on a Dolly Sprint, cut out ring spanners for brake pipes, thin 1in AF for J Type solenoid plus numerous modified old ring spanners to get around corners. I have a set of long sockets hadn't used them for eons but were handy a couple of weeks ago to tighten up the brake union thro the bracket on the front turrent, now back in their drawer for another few years! I've always used 1/2in drives but found 3/8 and 1/4 handy recently to get the angle/leverage in tight spots.

Looks great Colin, be careful passing cables through, have you got the multi prong tool for doing the dash rose nuts up saves damaging the dash. The rings in the laminate are memorizing as you look at them! Beware!