Peter Truman

Short length of next size up pipe cut it longitudinally so you have two halves then Gun Gum sandwich them over damaged pipe compressing them on with either exhaust clamps or jubilee clips. I successfully fixed a jags exhaust joint into a silencer using a stepped pipe joiner that way in the 80’s on both silencers and the bodge lasted around 5 years when the pipe joint in the silencer finally failed then SS throughout.

I like @ahebron have fitted a keyed push button in my Vitesse Mk2 passenger handle and I keyed it the same as the drivers door/ignition fortunately the key barrel was nearly the same as the ignition only one lock barrel pin significantly protruding when the key was inserted so filed that down! Been like that 53 years! ironically my Vitesse Door/ignition key opens my daughters Spitfire Mk2 boot? Her ignition switch has been replaced and uses a Lucas key

I’ve got plenty of the Lucas push/pull variety but I just don’t like the action. I’ll just keep looking they’ll turn up sometime, it’s a bug@@r when your single minded!

Lindsay here's my Vitesse Dash still the original timber Veneer, but extra tell tale lights and switch's, top left red is security alarm system reqd by insurers, bottom left light blue map light ie Butlers flexi mounted up under glove box so a warning light to tell me it's on, dark blue & switch is electric fuel pump, orange and switch is rear fog lights (ex UK driving in NE England & still fitted, why?), Right green is Overdrive light & switch, just out of pic and mounted under the dash is the old style Lucas Emergency 4 way flasher. The radio is a cheap ($40 ex USA) old style, but modern AM/FM digital with actual moving mechanical cursor, and USB and CD input, (don't ask about the Chanel logo on left knob, now removed) The switch's I'd like to get better looking ones, but there the only ones with enough spindle length to mount thro the timber dash the main body of the switch abuts directly onto the back of the timber dash ie no rear washer or nut.

Getting that way here too, gas prices are up around 40%, elect up 25%. Our ducted air gas heater is still going after 44 years, I annually strip it service, clean, and test it, but its efficiency must be questionable compared to modern units, so I'm looking to retire it and utilize the existing and relatively new 3 reverse cycle air conditioners we have for both heating and cooling, supposed to be very efficient. I'll need to fit a 4th unit of around 9 to 10KW to heat the infrequently used front formal dining room and lounge both biggish areas 24ft by 15ft & 12ft respectively, currently an older AC only. At least with the AC units I can set different temperatures for each area (background heat only in the little used areas) & time controls, even stop/start and change temperatures remotely by phone, that's getting a little tech for me!. With the new AC that will be around 15 fuses/circuit breakers in the fuse box, each AC is separately fused, 2 for the pool, oven, then rest are house power and lighting circuits, like a small factory? About 9 months ago before the gas price hike I replaced our gas Direct Mains Pressure Hot Water Boiler, a week later the State Gov started subsidising the installation of the electric alternative, shit happens!!

High as a Kite! loved it too!

We made my ratchet choke knob with the 32tpi thread fit my mates TR4 choke he turned out a suitable OD rose nut to accept one of the smaller cross head chrome suitably locked into the underside of the rose nut a real interference fit, heat and cold method tomorrow he’ll solder the inner piano wire and outer Bowden cable into the choke dash assembly I also found the thin alloy choke insignia and clear perspex disc to fit in the end of the correct knob so he’s a happy chappie! Were all cooking with gas here

I cleaned the front trim strip with some cellulose thinkers the plastic got sticky so it should be easy to colour tone with your roof colour if the white sticks out too much

Is this it, both very old light one isn't bad (for my car ) and quite usable other a little hard and dirty. I think someone must have a similar section. It is 1.5in wide with an approx 0.5 dia open tube at the front, the strip is 41.5in long, the flange bit obviously fits under the metal channel that the rubber seal push's into and the open curved front push's up against the vinyl roof on the header rail. The last 2 photos are of another soft top fitting probably at the rear deck it's a P piece 46in long by 0.5in wide with an enclosed 0.25in hollow tube it is fully sewn so it's probably at the rear of the hood, I'll have to investigate that one? Both bits came off an Aussie CKD assembled Herald Convertible of around 62 vintage, so whether their UK issue of Aussie 20% local content I don't know?

I assume the original Jubilee's had an indented band the worm gear drives rather than the later copies which are a perforated drive band which chew the rubber hose up when tightening. I only use the indented type, a fellow club member here takes originality to the extreme and uses the original wire type which leaves horrible grooves in the hose.

Seen it used by Plumbers here

Triumph as usual too many options I can get out of trouble as I have two two slotted Chrome ring nuts and I can machine one into the back of a suitably diameter sized rose nut Mine is for a mates TR4 he’s putting it back to original

Checked the choke thread it's 9/16in OD and definitely 32TPI. By comparison the Lucas light switch mounting threads are 9/16in OD by 28TPI (bug*er) Found a reference to the choke thread, see 9/16 Primary Row 32-UN, what ever that is?

Mine looks like your top one I’m sure mine measured at 32tpi using the SAE thread gauge but I’ll check again in the morning it’s difficult to check the nuts their so thin.Also Mine also has a flat on the side to stop it rotating in the hole Thanks for the help Colin

I have 2 thin chrome nuts with the two notch’s in them but am missing the rose style nut that goes on the front of the dash which it sound like you have. I’m helping a friend with his TR4 put his dash back to original currently he has a cheap aftermarket choke set up that doesn’t stay pulled out!

Can anyone advise the dash push/pull end of the cable fitting where it goes thro the dashboard hole it appears to be around 5/8in OD with a 32tpi thread, its a rose style nut. Hoping someone knows what the thread is PeterT

you just wanted to show off that great new dashboard you designed and fitted as you should it looks great! really like the three piece accessory gauge looks as it should always have been there.

I've used the same thermostat cover for the electric rad fan auto cut in/out switch with brass male/female fitting to ensure the switch bulb doesn't interfere with the thermostat., all works well

up to around 30 years ago our caretakers had some of them slashers to cut the grass around the service reservoirs, also petrol flymo's for the steep banks with 2 operators holding a rope each then lowered the flymo down the bank and walked along the top of the bank back and forth, soul destroying work!.

Only 50% of the holes on my roof frame would accept the 1/8in pop rivet and would require a slight ream out, and the strip that holds the webbing is countersunk presumably for the screw head not to protrude and rub on the roof canvas, inevitably some of the screws will strip out so pop rivets are obviously a working solution, I'd use the smaller head rivet so it best fits the countersunk hole, and be careful to ensure none of the rivet center pull through shear shaft sticks above the rivet head, very rare but I've had it happen, and had to knock the rivet steel center shaft back thro the rivet.

My convertible roof which is an Aussie CKD assembly had small screws Holding the plates to the webbing I’ll attach a photo later tonight they are very small short countersunk with a slot head Pic of Webbing clips and the original screws attached

The top pipework on a GT6 rad looks very untidy doesn't it, it looks almost back to the syphonic cooling system of pre war days! One adavantage I assume it is a high point for bleeding the system, but it does make the Vitesse semicircular top rad hose where it sends the coolant backwards to go frontwards is artwork compared to a GT6. Nice looking rad & well finished remember when removing and installing the rad to put a bit of removal cardboard on the face of the rad to protect the fins from damage.

Joseph What’s EP claim to fame Re rebuilt water pump do they use the original brass impeller a new shaft and good mechanical water seal bearings or do they use a better profiled impeller eg Datsun profiled unit for improved efficiency

Should qualify laugh is to the inbuilt fire suppressant not the cause of the problem sympathies for that!

I did a body off resto on my Vitesse but with engine and gearbox left insitu, the resto incorporated Automec copper brake pipe I was duly told copper pipe isn't permitted in brake lines in Australia (Aus Design Rules) ie fatigue. Solution was steel bundy pipes made up to the Automec lengths, bundy is a lot harder to bend and trying to fit that long pipe from the LH chassis leg under the engine to RH chassis leg then up the RH Turrent was impossible with engine fitted, the solution was to cut the pipe under the engine and fit a specially thin double female barrel nipple with flared pipe each end, it was a long and torturous job tightening that joint under an engine which has an indent in the sump to accommodate the steering rack so space is at a premium ie half a flat turn at a time on the barrel nipple and several attempts to make the joint leak proof! That was 20 years ago all still good, the engine is still insitu never removed!