Waynebaby

Mike, I fitted a TSSC shop bought plastic gearbox tunnel to my GT6 this week and the fit was excellent. It's helps to ream out the screw holes in the tunnel to remove the moulding flashes. Wayne

Hi All, Well the 'box is back in and so I thought I'd share a few learning points: Firstly, it isn't too hard doing it on your own. In fact there's so little room in the GT6 that I think another body in there might make things more difficult. The hardest bit is getting the bell housing under the heater box/air hoses. Once you get the 'box ~horizontal it will get easier (honest) Put the 'box into first gear and then remove the extension cover and the top cover of the 'box. This'll give you more room under the dash for the initial "gearbox at 30 degree action" whilst you try to fit the bell housing under the heater box (put it into first gear or you can't lift the cover off) Follow Uncle Pete's advice and use two threaded rods in the outermost holes in the block to hang the gearbox off (I found 4" lengths were ideal) This allows you to furtle with the 'box without fretting about what the weight of the 'box might be doing to your nice new clutch. Remove the hand-brake lever. This gives more room at the start of the process and allows you to sit on the tunnel and use your feet against the bell housing in the later stages. Most importantly, enjoy the "shtumph" when the input shaft finally slides into place. With any luck you won't have to hear it again for a while. Wayne

Cheers Hag, I’ve checked my release bearing dimensions and I shouldn’t need the washer modification. Wayne

Hi Pete, Thanks for confirming what I thought. re the tunnel: The metal of the tunnel is the standard o/d set up. So I’ll need to lift the engine high to clear this.

Hi All, I'm psyching myself up to refit the gearbox to my GT6 tomorrow and I think I'm ready: Dowels for the back of the block - check Sticking plasters - check Hernia support - check Supply of extra strong tea bags - check The only doubt I have is about what to do with the prop-shaft. Presently it is off the car and I was intending to fit this after the gearbox is in (I figure it'll give me more clearance at the back of the box) Can anybody think of a reason why this sequence will cause me problems? I'd hate to heave the box back on, only to find it needs to come off again to fit the prop-shaft. I can't think why this might be the case, but wiser minds than mine may know differently. Wayne

If people consider trying to suck the oil out of the differential via the filler hole be aware that the pipe needs to turn through 90 degrees as soon as it enters the casing. The clearance between the inside of the casing and the internal gubbins of the diff' at the location of the filler is so small that the only hose narrow enough to turn the corner and reach down to the bottom of the casing is screen washer hose or something similar. Do it when the oil is warm or it takes ages! I've attached a picture of what I've made to do the job. It cost about £1. Wayne

Doug, Thanks for the reply. I still have the self-adjusters on the rear brakes so I suspect that back in the early 80s when the car had a major refurb' someone put the brake-pipes back together the way they thought made most sense. I'll leave the brake lay-out the way it is for the time being and try plumbing it in correctly as part of next winter's project work and see how that feels (It'll give me an excuse to change over to silicon brake fluid!) Wayne

Hi All, My Mk3 GT6 came with a factory fitted Girling Powerstop Servo, and apart from getting it refurbished to cure a brake-fluid drinking habit I've never thought much about it (the car stops safely if given sufficient notice) When looking through the "Guide to Originality" book by John Thomason however I spotted that my under bonnet brake pipe arrangement looks nothing like it should. From the wiggly state of the pipework it's obvious that the pipes have been changed at some stage, but the change seems to be more than just cosmetic. As far as I can tell from looking at pipe runs in the the parts catalogue, the servo should be plumbed in such that the servo assistance only acts on the front brakes, with the rear circuit being acted on by pedal pressure alone from pipework on the "input" side of the servo. My car's brakes have been been plumbed in such a way however that the servo assistance acts on all four wheels. Am I correct in thinking that the original design intent of Triumph was for the servo assistance to act on the front brakes only? Given that the car stops, passes MOTs with good brake balance and the present arrangement seems to have served the car well enough for at least the last twenty years, can anybody think of a good reason why I should change the braking arrangement back to servo assistance on the front only? Will it stop any better? Wayne

I've run my Mk3 GT6 (O/D) with both the 3.89 and the 3.63 and have to say I like the latter. Apart from the more relaxed cruising it makes first gear that bit "longer". I prefer this as I always felt that first with the original diff' was rather too low - no sooner moving than you're scrabbling for second. Whilst it must have reduced the car's acceleration rate I can't say it has been noticeable. The change has made a (nowadays) legally significant difference to my speedo accuracy though and I'm presently reliant on GPS to keep me on the right side of the law. I hope to re-calibrate the speedo this year. Wayne

Richard, As Doug says, the tape is not moulded to the shape of the tunnel and has a habit of lifting at the ends when asked to bend around corners. Not brilliant for the price. Here's apicture of the tapes profile: Wayne

Richard, My understanding is that Dynamat works best at stopping drumming/booming by altering the resonant frequency of the panel it's attached to. To attenuate the transmission of noise through a panel you need to add mass and to stop heat you need insulation. I've found that the best product to provide an effective combination of these properties is supplied by an outfit called NKThermal. It's called Lead Sandwich and is exactly what it's name suggests. https://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/noisekiller-lead-sandwich-material/ Needless to say it is heavy (not to mention pricey) and you'll need to support the material on the underside of the transmission tunnel with repair washers. I've attached a picture of the material applied to my tunnel. It added about 5kg. Wayne

Phil, This might be a daft question, but are you oiling the trunnions with the wheels on the ground? My understanding is that the oil goes in (and comes out) easier if the car is jacked up to get the pressure off the trunnion. Wayne

Paul, I fitted one to my Mk3 GT6 last year and have found it very good as the car is much more likely to start at the first attempt now, even if the battery is having a bit of an off day. Fitting the new starter on my car was a straight swap but you have to be careful not to miss the shims which fit between the starter and the bell-housing. These can stick to the old starter and can be almost invisible under the dirt. If you leave them off you'll soon find out (I know I did!) because the meshing will be out. Wayne

Hi Kevin, Yes, You're right. I found that what worked for me was a piece of bamboo which had been holding up my tomato plants up until that point! Wayne

I've attached a picture of the arrangement in a CDSE carb (fixed jet, adjustable metering needle) which comes from the Haynes Stromberg carb manual. On the CDSE the grub screw doesn't actually retain the metering needle. It is there to maintain the orientation of the biased needle relative to the carb throat when the needle height is adjusted. If you take the grub screw out before turning the adjusting screw from the top the whole needle assembly will rotate and won't screw out. Wayne

Kevin, If you want to remove the needle you first need to put the needle retaining screw back into the side of the cylindrical air valve. As David says you can now unscrew the metering needle from the top using a 0.125 A/F Allen key (ideally use the special Stromberg tool) until the needle assembly emerges from the bottom of the valve. THEN you remove the needle retaining screw from the side and the metering needle should come out. I agree with David though. Replacing the metering needle O-ring is a "nice to do" to avoid having to routinely top up the dash-pots. It's unlikely to help with the starting problem though. Wayne

Aiden, I think the survival of the sockets depends on the torque of the driver. I've managed to split a 15/16 socket on my drive shaft nuts using a 450Nm mains impact driver. You can see the resultant crack in the picture below. I buy impact sockets as an when I find I need them rather than having a full set. Wayne

I've taken a rather iffy picture to try to show the bore of the slave cylinder. As you can see (I hope) there is quite a lot of scoring and there is a very definite "lip" in the bore at the point of furthest travel of the piston. I think I'll be looking for a new 1" Girling slave rather than trying a new seal. Wayne

I think on balance I'll be best off changing the seals in the slave and master cylinders and swapping over to silicon. Thanks for all the replies gents. Wayne

Hi All, I'm seeking an opinion about the necessity/value of changing the seal on my Mk3 GT6 clutch slave cylinder. I've changed the clutch and now need to decide whether or not to change the cylinder seal. The existing seal didn't leak before I removed the cylinder but both the Haynes manual and the Canley "clutch" web-page recommend changing the seal as a matter of course. The Buckeye Triumph web-site on the other hand advises leaving well alone, the argument being that a replacement seal of uncertain provenance is more likely to fail than the old one presently in-situ. Any suggestions as to the best course of action will be gratefully received. Wayne (definitely a club member)

Hi, I'm not sure that the TR7 fork is the same as the Vitesse/ GT6/Dolly 1850. If it was then we could use the up-rated Land Rover fork (which would be nice). There is a picture of the TR7 fork in the attached link from Rimmers and it looks quite different.. Wayne https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LBU1234U

Thanks Pete, Bigger might not be a bad idea. The pin in mine has bowed over the years. Wayne

Pete, Sorry to back track on this thread a bit but I'm considering moving the anti-rotation pin in my clutch release bearing carrier as you suggested. Do you know if I'm correct in assuming this is a 1/16" x 11/16" roll pin? Cheers Wayne

Shaun, You will struggle to find a clutch operating assembly (a.k.a. a clutch fork) on the suppliers websites but they do turn up on ebay quite regularly. Wayne

Rob, I had the same problem on my GT6. WD40 applied to the pivots at the distribution box end of the cables sorting things out (but as Clive says, you will need to do this whilst inserted into the foot-well upside down and at 45 degrees) Wayne