Dynamo to Denso Alternator

[Paul H]

Just trial fitting my new Denso Alternator part no 16404 40amp to my Vitesse . It’s so small and light 

I have removed the Dynamo bracket and using a tube spacer trial fitted to get the alignment 

note . The spacer tube is on the wrong side of the alternator !!!!!!!
 

Using an old fan belt I cut the belt and re measured and ordered a 1050 belt which should fit ok . I’ve added a 40 amp cable which will fit on on a post on the  alternator . The cable goes direct to the battery positive. The post is next to the triple socket 

The alternator has 3 connections 

$ which goes direct to battery - Planning to use Brown/Yellow 

IG - Do I need to run an additional cable from the ignition switch  ?????

L - ignition warning light - planning to use Brown/Green 

Nb there is a note saying L is optional and the alternator will run ok without it 

is this ok ? 

I know I have to rewire the Regulator 

Any input welcomed 

Paul 

[NonMember]

Your proposed wiring colours aren't quite right.

The IG terminal should be a white wire to the ignition switch - connecting to the coil +ve may work but taking it all the way to either the fuse box or the switch would be better.

The L terminal should really be brown/yellow direct to the warning light. The existing brown/yellow at the dynamo goes to the control box and there's a second brown/yellow from there to the bulb, so you'd probably want to disconnect them both from the control box and bridge them together. This matches the wiring colours used on GT6 Mk3 with an alternator from the factory.

The $ terminal is a "sense" terminal and doesn't directly correspond to any of the dynamo wires. Brown/green may be usable (it was the field connection) but plain brown is more technically correct and, as the note says, it should ideally go to the battery but across to the big B terminal post will work.

[Paul H]

1 minute ago, NonMember said:

Your proposed wiring colours aren't quite right.

The IG terminal should be a white wire to the ignition switch - connecting to the coil +ve may work but taking it all the way to either the fuse box or the switch would be better.

The L terminal should really be brown/yellow direct to the warning light. The existing brown/yellow at the dynamo goes to the control box and there's a second brown/yellow from there to the bulb, so you'd probably want to disconnect them both from the control box and bridge them together. This matches the wiring colours used on GT6 Mk3 with an alternator from the factory.

The $ terminal is a "sense" terminal and doesn't directly correspond to any of the dynamo wires. Brown/green may be usable (it was the field connection) but plain brown is more technically correct and, as the note says, it should ideally go to the battery but across to the big B terminal post will work.

Many thanks 

Paul 

[johny]

Would this item be the same as the alternator used in the conversion? Comes out 51 pounds delivered with discount code so price is pretty good....

OEM NUMBER 2706087201000 (partsinmotion.co.uk)

[PeteH]

I have a copy of the Courier (Oct 1988 No 100), which was obviously missed when the "big clearout" took place many years back, (I thought they all got left in the boot of the Vitesse? when I sold it). Interesting to note that one of the Articles, by Carl Heinlin, was the installation of an alternator?. Back then the recomendation was LR100 or LR102. Just shows what comes around?. Strange to say what was missing in the article? A wiring diagramme!.

Pete

[johny]

I like the idea of one of these mini sized units, 2.8kg👍

[Paul H]

39 minutes ago, johny said:

Would this item be the same as the alternator used in the conversion? Comes out 51 pounds delivered with discount code so price is pretty good....

OEM NUMBER 2706087201000 (partsinmotion.co.uk)

Looks like it . There are oems on EBay for similar money 

Paul 

[Clive]

50 minutes ago, johny said:

Would this item be the same as the alternator used in the conversion? Comes out 51 pounds delivered with discount code so price is pretty good....

OEM NUMBER 2706087201000 (partsinmotion.co.uk)

Yes, however it is not a genuine denso. You pays your money etc etc.

[Paul H]

The Dynamo to Denso Alternator conversion is complete and initial testing done the Denso is working and charging . The Denso 16404 is 40amp , very small in comparison to the C40L Dynamo and half it’s weight . The small size increases engine access . 

The fan belt required is a 1050 

For my benefit and others here’s a summary of the exercise 

The Dynamo Bracket attached to the side of the engine bracket is removed as no longer required . The Denso lower fixing bolts straight to the engine bolt bracket . The spacer required was 40mm . Treat this as approximate .

The top adjuster bar fitting on the Denso requires a M12 bolt . 
The Denso has a 3 wire connector . Mine came with the 3 pin female connector so worth checking it’s included

. The wiring is as follows and thanks to @NonMemberfor his advice .

In my case the B+ connector is a 30amp cable which goes direct to the positive on the battery . 

The left brown cable $ is new and goes direct to the positive terminal on the battery 

The middle white cable IG is existing spurred into coil +ve cable 

The Outer brown/ yellow cable L is the original to the Dynamo

The brown / green is not required and taped off 

All wiring was added to existing loom and re taped using non adhesive loom tape. 

The Regulator RB340 is under the passenger dash is no longer required as the Denso has a regulator included so detach all the wires as follows

The black earth can be terminated as not required . 

Join F and WL using additional spade connectors 

Terminal B and D ( 3 heavy duty wires need to be joined ) I used a small section of scrap copper plate and made a shunt cutting out sections to make 3 spades to connect the 3 cables . I then taped up the connection . With the regulator still in place the Dynamo can be put back with minimum effort should originality be required . 

Hope this is helpful to newbies like me and thanks again for continued advice .

Paul 

[NonMember]

I would recommend fitting a rubber boot over the big terminal with the red wire. It's direct to battery so you really don't want it so exposed where a dropped spanner could short it to earth.

[Wagger]

Aged 22 with my first car, it had a battery which had external links between cells. PO had lost the cover. When topping the oil I stood the can on it, not looking what I was doing. A few seconds later the oil was boiling in the can. Good job it was not a spanner!

Elder brother had an Austin Ten Cambridge with batteries under the front seats. Same type of battery with cover missing resulted in the first ever 'Heated Seat' that I had ever seen.

It is, probably, a good idea to disconnect the battery on our Triumphs whilst working under the bonnet. No computers or clocks to reset. (Or new Radio?)